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  Fuel Pump Swap/Neon SRT-4 (Page 2)

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Author Topic:   Fuel Pump Swap/Neon SRT-4
alprowl



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From:Katonah , NY, USA
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posted 12-16-2014 03:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for alprowl     send a private message to alprowl   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by alprowl
quote:
Originally posted by CCJ:
I have a question... What would cause my car to die once the vehicle says 1/4 of the tank left until empty?

Once I put 8gallons in her, she fires right up and works again.


Are you only putting 8g in, or it only takes 8g to refill it?

drbutton

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posted 12-16-2014 04:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for drbutton     send a private message to drbutton   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by drbutton
My Prowler (1999) did exactly that - stalled with 1/4 tank of fuel...so I thought. I had it towed (yikes!) only to discover that it was out of gas. The fuel sender went bad, requiring the replacement of the pump assembly. That addressed the problem, but led to the saga of problems I am still dealing with now. You may read more about that on the other thread in the Technical Discussion section if you are so inclined: http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/005137.html

This message has been edited by drbutton on 12-16-2014 at 04:10 PM

drbutton

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posted 12-16-2014 04:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for drbutton     send a private message to drbutton   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by drbutton
quote:
Originally posted by VinceM:
Drbutton, I ordered the external in-line fuel filter part#4865360AA from Part.Com because they showed it as available. When the order was processed their customer service said I ordered the wrong part #for my VIN (2001 Prowler) and changed it to 4897416AB. This part# is for the in-tank fuel strainer which is inside the fuel pump canister. After some discussion they said what I needed wasn't available from them. I double checked with a local dealer and learned the part# I wanted was discontinued and not available from any Chrysler dealers. If you find an after market replacement let us know.

I am letting everyone know:
http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/005137.html

"I have the complete assembly www.prowler-parts.com call me or e mail
Bill"

drbutton

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posted 02-13-2015 08:58 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for drbutton     send a private message to drbutton   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by drbutton
quote:
Originally posted by onecatnodog:
DrBurtton, Fill the car with fuel and take it for a aggressive drive on the way home, stopping and starting and cornering hard left and right around the block then pull it into the garage and take a bright flashlight and shine it just above the rear driverside tire were the fuel pump cap that holds the fuel pump in place.. You can see it from there with the car on the ground.. If it is wet then the cap is not tight or they did not use the new style O ring for the cap that holds the fuel pump in place and that is your leak.. If it is dry go to the front of your car passenger side by the crossmember and look for a leak there by the catalytic converter between the firewall and the back of the engine as I have fixed quite a few that the factory line has a pin hole in it there and it sprays close to the hot exhaust and vaporizes the fuel so you don't see a leak but you can smell it..
John(onecatnodog) at 720-934-3540

John, you were right. The seal on the pump reinstall was bad. Finally, they found it and replaced it for free. Thank you for all your help on this problem!

dpena




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posted 03-18-2015 03:44 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for dpena     send a private message to dpena   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by dpena
Here is the thread that started the Neon fuel pump upgrade:

It was for: '95-'04 Neon or '04 Neon SRT-4

High-Pressure 255 ltr/hr kit
Part # - FPC006 - $110 a.k.a. GCA76

http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/001794.html


Here is a web journal of what I went thru to replace the fuel pump:

Phase 1

Phase 2


------------------
--> My Latest Dyno Video
(Prowlerexcitement.com DVD Video Vault- Get it Today!) by: Prowlerexcitement.com
(Watch Me Burn Rubber) (Need a Banner, get the Details)

drbutton

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posted 08-23-2016 09:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for drbutton     send a private message to drbutton   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by drbutton
quote:
Originally posted by 1of1576:
Drbutton, DO NOT get a factory pump!! Read through all the posts. Will not last. Onecatnodog can be of great help to you. My swap turned out great!! No more "long crank time/hard start hot", no more "Fuel pump whine cold" and.....it did increase my performance. Andy

I was warned about this nearly two years ago, when I replaced my fuel pump with a stock unit. Just in the past 2 days, the Prowler will start, then die after a second or so. Is this the early sign of fuel pump failure predicted by 1of1576?

pgpg42

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posted 08-24-2016 06:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for pgpg42     send a private message to pgpg42   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by pgpg42
drbutton,
An easy way to check if the fuel pump is the problem is to rent a pressure gauge from your local parts store. There is a Scrader valve in the center of the top of the engine. Connect gauge to that port. Start engine and observe the pressure reading, shut engine off, the residual pressure should remain. If the gauge drops to zero the blue seal in the fuel pump is probably bad. Unfortunately this seal does not come with the Walbro replacement pump. However, you can purchase a fuel pump assembly for a Town & Country to obtain the seal. There are other threads showing how to accomplish this.
ed monahan





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posted 08-24-2016 08:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
Turn the key ON but not to START (don't crank the starter) and wait about 10 seconds so the pressure builds up and see if that cures it.
dru




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posted 08-24-2016 09:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dru     send a private message to dru   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by dru
Doc, Agree with PGPG42. Put a fuel pressure guage on it. Should be 50-60 running, then maintain pressure when shut off with very slow bleed off of pressure (hours). Idive (Mickey) had a crankshaft sensor that went bad that had symptoms similar to yours, only ran a few seconds. So check the pressure first then search about crank sensor. Hope this helps.
DizzysHotToy

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From:Perris, CA , USA
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posted 11-08-2016 03:58 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for DizzysHotToy     send a private message to DizzysHotToy   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by DizzysHotToy
Did the fuel pump mod on Saturday with the Walboro pump. Went fairly easily except for the pin connectors. Cut the blade connectors off and crimped the new pin connectors to only find out they are just a size too big. Of course we did not figure this out until we installed it and it would not fire. Had to pull the pump back out after we did a continuity test at the plug and found none. Once out we had to crimp the pins to make them fit as well as putting a very small piece of metal in the connector to insure they would continue to make contact. Put it back in and she fired right up.

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