posted 07-23-2004 03:46 PM                  

Thats a lot of torque,, cool

posted 07-24-2004 08:57 PM                  

I contacted Walbro - maker of our OEM pumps and they don't have anything that will work to increase flow on our systems.

RSI did a seperate fuel system for the nitrous on MikeK's high boy and IDa did one for George (StreeBlue) 300M.

posted 07-24-2004 09:31 PM                  

This MSD system is similar(a copy cat) to the system developed by Kenne Bell a while back called the "Boost-a-Pump". Theoretically it is a sound Idea, the problem you get is with sustained usage at high boost, the pump can overheat. IF you have a submerged pump intank, this is not a problem until you run down to below a 1/4 tank. That is when the problems occur. It was initially developed for Mustangs and Turbo Buicks, using an inline pump, which most users if you ask or find them would tell you the Boost-A-Pump is a POS. I really could not suggest this or an alternative, until I see the A/F lines on the dyno map.

What is the actual voltage to your pump? I used to race a Volvo Turbo, and by hardwiring it with 0 Copper wire and its own relay, I increased my voltage to the pump by almost .6 volts, which doesn't sound like much, but made a big difference in consistency of fuel flow at 20PSI boost.

Don't know if any of this helped, but ... I tried...

posted 07-25-2004 03:32 AM                  

Tony--thank you also.I called MSD and they wouldn't even recommend their own product and said there could be pump failure with higher voltage. Interesting what you said about the pump rewire.I saw something for a Jeep Cherokee that was offered by an aftermarket company to increase the headlight brightness by replacing part of the stock harness with heavier gauge wire for less voltage drop.I gave some thought to the higher voltage thing and with our pump using a mechanical spring controlled internal tank return as Marty mentioned,the speeding up of the pump would have to overcome the bypass capabilities of the return to give more pressure.
Oh well, I thought I was done.

posted 07-26-2004 09:07 PM                  

They look the same to me right down to the sealing o-ring and the filter. Going to call Walbro tomorrow and try to get some answers.

posted 07-26-2004 10:59 PM                  

I don't know if you've replaced the pump before, but it's quite tricky getting the large O-ring to stay in place between the lid and the tank body.

I found that the easiest way is to set the pump into position in the tank first, then while holding the pump down tightly with one hand slip the O-ring over the top of the pump and let it fall into position under the lid of the pump, then while still holding it down tight, screw the cap back on. You may need some help doing this, but it will assure a tight seal and no check engine light. Miller makes a special tool to remove the screw on cap ring. The first time I did one without the tool, I boogered up a couple of the tabs.

Oh, also be careful not to bend the float assembly or damage the resistive sensor while rebuilding the pump assembly.

posted 07-27-2004 09:03 PM                  

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posted 07-30-2004 12:07 AM                  

LOL.TF