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Author Topic:   OVERHEATING
Top Kat


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From:Glen Allen, Va U S A
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posted 09-04-2004 12:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Top Kat     send a private message to Top Kat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Top Kat
Has anyone else experienc ed an overheating problem? My Kat's temp started to rise for the first time while cruising at "Woodward". I stopped and added about 2 quarts of water and everything was fine untill yesterday. Temp started to climb the scale and I stopped and added water. The water added wanted to regurgatate back out of the bottle. I felt like this may be a defective thermostat, so I removed it this morning. Refilled the coolant, let it heat up and heat up it did. More reguratation. The manual says that if the WATER PUMP is defective, you will not have heat from the heater because the pump can pump water to it. Well, my heater works fine. ANYONE, have a clue. I can't imagine the radiator being clogged. Oh, it is a 2001, with 17,000 miles. Any help or ideas would be great!
Thanks, Jim

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butchcee


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posted 09-04-2004 12:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for butchcee     send a private message to butchcee   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by butchcee
getting all the air out of the system can be a tricky thing. Use the search feature to find lots of information on overheating Jim.
ALLEY CAT





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posted 09-04-2004 01:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ALLEY CAT     send a private message to ALLEY CAT   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ALLEY CAT
Jim - with our temps over 100 degrees so often,,,,many here experience 'overheating' readings on their guage. Might be time for a super flush job,,,,and be sure to burp the baby to get all the air out of system.
Top Kat


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posted 09-04-2004 01:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Top Kat     send a private message to Top Kat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Top Kat
Thanks, Butchee & AC.I was thinking that there may be air in the system, but did not realize it may cause an overheating issue. I saw the bleed valve on top of the intake near the upper rad. hose. I will try the bleeding process next. Hope that works. I have already spent a full day on this and I am getting frustrated. Thanks again.
Jim

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Dave Mills





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posted 09-04-2004 02:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave Mills     send a private message to Dave Mills   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Dave Mills
My kat did this once and there was air in the system. It was shortly after the coolant was changed.
Laddie Roussel





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posted 09-04-2004 03:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Laddie Roussel     send a private message to Laddie Roussel   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Laddie Roussel
Jim.

Check this link. It shows a pic using clear plastic tube from bleeder valve to coolant container....
http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/001287.html

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GRROWL


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posted 09-04-2004 04:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for GRROWL     send a private message to GRROWL   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by GRROWL
quote:
Originally posted by Top Kat:
I saw the bleed valve on top of the intake near the upper rad. hose. I will try the bleeding process next. Hope that works.

No, it probably won't. The air also pockets at the top radiator hose, about a quart's worth. Here's a method I worked out to bleed that area (complete post at http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/001144.html ):

quote:
Originally posted by GRROWL:
WHEN COLD, loosen the upper radiator clamp and move the hose halfway off of the radiator. Screw an air needle (like you use to fill a basketball) into a clear hose and slip the needle between the radiator hose and the radiator sleeve. Seal it with a couple of small strips of duct tape and suck on it. I WAS ABLE TO ADD OVER A QUART MORE COOLANT THIS WAY.

-GRROWL

This message has been edited by GRROWL on 09-04-2004 at 04:33 PM

JCProwler

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posted 09-05-2004 02:03 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for JCProwler     send a private message to JCProwler   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by JCProwler
When I was going up San Jose CA, 500 miles from my place I driving my Prowler a notch and half below the H on the temp gage. The faster I would go 80-85 the car would run cooler, when I was going 65-70 the temp would start rising again. I had ony 8,200 miles at the time on my car. The temp outside was around 57 degrees, I left from So. Cal. at 3:30 am.

This message has been edited by JCProwler on 09-05-2004 at 02:05 AM

Blue Bullet

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From:Lake Conroe, TX.
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posted 09-05-2004 09:02 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Blue Bullet     send a private message to Blue Bullet   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Blue Bullet
Make sure your radiator cap is in good shape. A bad seal or a weak spring can allow coolant to escape as the engine heats up, and when it is cooling down (after you shut off the engine)it can suck in air around the cap seal rather than bring return coolant from the reservoir. Also check the where the cap seals to the radiator. Make sure there is no gunk preventing a good seal.

You may want to simply replace the cap anyway. It's a cheap item that may very well solve your problem. It's worth looking in to.

Ed Holler
Lake Conroe, TX.

This message has been edited by Blue Bullet on 09-05-2004 at 09:05 AM

GRROWL


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posted 09-05-2004 09:42 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for GRROWL     send a private message to GRROWL   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by GRROWL
quote:

Make sure your radiator cap is in good shape. A bad seal or a weak spring can allow coolant to escape as the engine heats up, and when it is cooling down (after you shut off the engine)it can suck in air around the cap seal rather than bring return coolant from the reservoir. Also check the where the cap seals to the radiator. Make sure there is no gunk preventing a good seal.

You may want to simply replace the cap anyway. It's a cheap item that may very well solve your problem. It's worth looking in to.

Ed Holler
Lake Conroe, TX.


For the sake of accurate reporting, a few of these statements need to be modified as they specifically apply to the prowler. The above is 100% true for some cars, but not the prowler since the prowler has no cap on the radiator. The pressure cap is on the coolant tank, which in this case is part of the pressurized system. It's function is to bleed air, not coolant. It's function is not to allow coolant to return to the radiator on cool down. As the cheapest, easiest part of the cooling system, you may want to try replacing it, but not for the reasons stated.

-GRROWL

Stumpy38

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From:Elora, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Dec 2003
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posted 09-05-2004 10:33 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stumpy38     send a private message to Stumpy38   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Stumpy38
My Kat was doing the exact same thing last summer. Two days and two thermostats later, (they thought the first thermostat was defective because it continued to over heat upon reassembly) my mechanic called the D/C tech help line and left word with the people there that he was stonewalled. Four hours later they called him back with an idea. One of the senior techs remembered a 300M doing somewhat of the same thing. This is what he suggested. The cooling system in a Prowler is different from most, instead of the wax in the thermostat being heated from the water coming in front of it, it is actually heated from a tube that runs down from the top of the engine block, if this tube is blocked the hot water never reaches the wax in the thermostat and it doesn't open. Anyone who has attempted or done a thermostat replacement on a Kat may have seen a small opening above the housing when looking up, that is the tube, take a simple air nozzle and blow it out, when my mechanic did this, no more problems. My symptoms were

high temp
check gauge light on
hot engine
cool rad

all the symptoms of a bad thermostat. This past July before Prowlin' Canada I had my guy repeat the process, probably not necessary but I was not willing to take any chances. And yes Top Kat you will still have heat.
I don't know if this is your particular problem, but this was my experience. Like my mechanic said, "it is very very odd for a thermostat to fail after 20 000 km.

Tom Santella
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posted 09-05-2004 11:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tom Santella     send a private message to Tom Santella   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tom Santella
I had the exact same conditions on my Kat. After replacing the thermostat to no avail, a simple switch of caps from my Ram to the Kat solved everything. Why, who knows? But it worked.

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BackinBlack

ALLEY CAT





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posted 09-05-2004 01:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ALLEY CAT     send a private message to ALLEY CAT   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ALLEY CAT
Stump and Tom - Both good information,,,,I'll remember that if it happens to me,,,thanks!

AC

Top Kat


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posted 09-06-2004 11:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Top Kat     send a private message to Top Kat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Top Kat
Thanks to everyone for the the great info and your responses. I'm going to work on it tomorrow ( Tuesday ) and I will post after I test the car. I plan to put a new thermostat in, since I removed the old one just to see if that would allow it to cool down, Blow air through the tube, Replace the cap, and bleed the system of air completely. This should resolve the overheating and I may not ever know what was actually the remedy, but like most of you; I only want to do this once, so I will do all. Thank you all again for your help.
Jim

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This message has been edited by Top Kat on 09-06-2004 at 11:10 PM

dpena




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posted 09-06-2004 11:41 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dpena     send a private message to dpena   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by dpena
A buddy of mine is a racer and has his own personal techs and I spoke with one of them over the weekend. I explained to him some of the issues I have been having with my Prowler and he suggested I try out this new tool he has been using on his race cars. He said it completly removed all air from the cooling systems. His race cars have always been a challange to remove locked air in his cooling systems and this system has done it every time.

Filler, Cooling System, Vacuum

Part number - SVTSRAD262

Here is a lower priced version..

Part number - RADKITPLUSJR

Refiller, Cooling System, Vacuum

According to the Tech this system required shop air (90 psi, 6 BAR minimum) quickly draws a powerful vacuum.

If anyone has used this system can you let me know how it worked out???

Thanks,

Top Kat


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posted 09-07-2004 10:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Top Kat     send a private message to Top Kat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Top Kat
Thanks Dan, although, I am not sure the Prowler plastic reservoir bottle will withstand 90 PSI. Most cooling systems have the pressure cap on the Rad.
Jim

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obi-wan
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posted 09-07-2004 11:54 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for obi-wan     send a private message to obi-wan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by obi-wan
All the above are great things to do. There is,unfortunately one other possibility, There have been number of problems with clogged blocks. This is caused by sludge form the machining process and/or casting sand mixed with alum. sludge.It's a bummer, for sure and its hard to say when or how it will appear. Recently a dealership in my area had one of these. I saw first hand what the problem was. They ended up pulling the engine and taking all the freeze plugs out and part of the eng. apart. Then everything in the cooling jackets was cleaned out-what a mess!!! A hole punch of yuuuuuk came out, to say the least. It all went back together and is alive and well in the customers car-just doing fine.It won't always happened but it can. This is something that people should know. When ANY engine is cast or machined all kinds of casting remint(sand,alum. slag, and other foreign contaminant) can be left in the casting-especially the coolant chambering. When the machining of the block and heads takes place the drilling tailings,alum. chips and tooling bits can easly be left inside these castings,stampings,forgings. Gasket materials can also introduce there own problems as part of the finial assembly. I'm not trying to be an alarmist here, it's just a fact that these things do happened. Sometimes these things will take awhile to break loose inside the various castings and start floating around. They can clog up the cooling sys.as happened to the above Kat and be fairly difficult to find. That kat had everything possible done to try and find the problem before the factory decided to pull it and go through the massive labor to find and remedy that problem. I hope this helps people understand how difficult this can be, Obi-Wan
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posted 09-07-2004 12:05 PM           send a private message to obi-wan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Orange
If you have an OVEREATING problem, put down the fork and start going to the gym!
Bob Goetz


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posted 09-07-2004 12:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Bob Goetz     send a private message to Bob Goetz   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Bob Goetz
Obi-wan is correct and add to the mixture the fact the cars come with a leak sealant in them does not help. My car made several trips in for overheating and the only thing that seemed to work they pulled the head and took an air hose and blew out all of the water passages. At the point I buy another Prowler the first thing I am going to do is have the complete system flushed to get rid of the sealant, because the way that stuff works is it is liquid until it gets to a certain temperature point and then becomes solid to plug the leak. Well it looks to me boiling temp for the motor is in that heat range and the stuff turns to sludge. I recommend if you have a couple thousand miles on your car any leak it has should be plugged, get it in and flush it and change the thermostat before you ever overheat the car to save yourself a lot of grief in the future.

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Top Kat


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posted 09-10-2004 01:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Top Kat     send a private message to Top Kat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Top Kat
Thanks again for everone's reply and the info. My Kat is "cool" again. As I said before, I did all of the items everone mentioned, along with replacing the thermostat and pressure cap. I don't know exactly what the remody was but it is now fixed, and I am happy!!!!
Jim

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ed monahan





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posted 09-10-2004 01:20 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
Jim, that's cool. lol
I did not forget about the center caps. I am getting a slight run-around but I think I have an option. I need to contact a guy on 9/14. Hopefully I will get them.
catfish




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posted 09-10-2004 05:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
bob is right,many of these prowlers are not overheating,till later in their lives so to speak.if yours has bars leak still in it,it will be beige in color,flush that crap out asap.it will eventally,like bob says clog.that stuff can also make your thermostat stick.ive seen a number of posts lately where its not happening till 15 or 20.000- miles.

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This message has been edited by jan bruggeman on 09-10-2004 at 06:40 PM

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