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Author Topic:   Ball joint failure at 40 MPH.
CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 01-15-2018 11:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
Just a reminder. Replacing the lower ball joints either under the recall or when ever does not fix the issue. It just starts the clock over again. The more miles you drive and to an extent the terrain that your driving over will make checking these more of a priority. This is unique problem with this car and it's not going to go away. Thinking you can just replace the ball joints and problem solved is not going to cut it. The recall only specifies the torn boot issue and although that's valid, this is quite honestly a design flaw.

This message has been edited by CAT-A-TONIC on 01-15-2018 at 11:08 AM

kayaksrfr1069


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posted 01-28-2018 06:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kayaksrfr1069     send a private message to kayaksrfr1069   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by kayaksrfr1069
Just looked at mine and the boots are indeed rotted, looks like another project. Does anyone know if I were to order the part listed if they send the original ball joint or the "Upgraded" version? If not does anyone have the upgraded part#?

Also, does anyone have a determination if it is a failure of the actual ball joint, or the failure of the boot causing lack of lubrication leading to ball joint failure? If the latter I'm considering adding some additional layers using large shrink tubing or sealing tape to reinforce the boot and help protect it from the elements.

This message has been edited by kayaksrfr1069 on 01-28-2018 at 08:20 PM

Tomcal


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posted 01-29-2018 11:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tomcal     send a private message to Tomcal   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tomcal

Many varied opinions on POA as to cause of Ball Joint failure. Below is copy of NHTSA report.

National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
Office of Defects Investigation

BALL JOINT SEPARATION
NHTSA ID: EA02033
Dated opened: November 26, 2002

ODI HAS RECEIVED COMPLAINTS THAT THE SUBJECT VEHICLES HAVE HAD ONE OR BOTH OF THEIR LOWER BALL JOINTS SEPARATE AND CAUSE THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE TO DROP TO THE GROUND.

DAIMLER CHRYSLER¿S ASSESSMENT OF THE BALL JOINT FAILURES IS THAT THE JOINT FAILURE MAY BE PRECIPITATED BY THE LOSS OF JOINT LUBRICATION. THE LOSS OF LUBRICATION COULD RESULT IN ACCELERATED WEAR AND POSSIBLE JOINT SEPARATION. DAIMLER CHRYSLER BELIEVES THAT THE LOSS OF JOINT LUBRICATION IS THE RESULT OF LEAKS OR TEARS IN THE RUBBER BOOT THAT PROTECTS THE BALL JOINT. THESE LEAKS OR TEARS COULD BE CAUSED BY CONTACT WITH OTHER INTERNAL PARTS OF THE BALL JOINT OR TORSIONAL LOADING THAT TWISTS THE BOOT.

BY LETTER DATED FEBRUARY 4, 2003, THE MANUFACTURER ADVISED THIS AGENCY OF ITS DECISION TO INITIATE A SAFETY RECALL CAMPAIGN FOR ALL OF THE 11,698 SUBJECT VEHICLES BUILT FROM JANUARY, 1997 TO MARCH, 2001 TO CORRECT THE DEFECT IDENTIFIED IN THIS EA (COPY ATTACHED). THE ACTION IS IDENTIFIED BY NHTSA AS RECALL NO. 03V-034.

Tomcal


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posted 01-29-2018 12:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tomcal     send a private message to Tomcal   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tomcal
More Info on Ball Joint failure....


This message has been edited by Tomcal on 01-29-2018 at 12:13 PM

Tomcal


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posted 01-29-2018 12:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tomcal     send a private message to Tomcal   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tomcal

Replacement Ball Joint used in recall is part # CBBTC030.

New replacement Ball Joint will have an "X" marked on bottom of joint alone with date of manufacture.

CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 01-29-2018 12:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
The replacements have a modified stem. The originals have a tapered area and the replacements have most of the tapered area modified so it's stronger in that area of the stem. But you can consider this a two fold problem. If the boots tear they can allow dirty outside elements in the joint stem area and cause failure. At first it was believed that this was the reason for the failures. But as time went on and the replacements started to have problems it became obvious that there were other issues. There is a design problem. Due to the distance that road irregularities have to travel from the lower ball joints to the shocks, the ball joints are taking a tremendous pounding. The replacement ball joints while being able to take more abuse in the stem area before snapping have shown in several failures to have had the stem "pop" or pull out of the ball joint housing. The more you drive the car and the rougher the terrain, the more attention you must give to them in regards to possible clearance issues. Jack wheel off the ground and try to rock tire/wheel. If a ball joint has problems it will show by allowing the tire/wheel to move around at the lower area of control arm. It should be tight!
Tomcal


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posted 01-29-2018 12:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tomcal     send a private message to Tomcal   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tomcal

How to check Ball Joints. Correct way.

Video: http://youtu.be/62bVn7E8gyk?t=46

See your owners manual for correct jacking points.

You don't have to lift both sides at once. One side at a time is fine.

robin


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posted 01-29-2018 12:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for robin     send a private message to robin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robin

enter your vin here to check recall date done.

http://www.mopar.com/en-us/my-vehicle/recalls/results.html

GaryE





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posted 01-29-2018 01:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for GaryE     send a private message to GaryE   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by GaryE
Most of us will agree that this is a problem that we will continue to deal with for a long time into the future. The important thing is having replacement parts available. Currently they are out of stock and no new production date is available. The Chrysler agency that has been supplying me parts for the last 15 years is not able to get a new production date. I have been told that because this is a recall item, Chrysler must continue to manufacture them. The only parts that currently can be purchased is from the Prowler Store at a very inflated price. We need to fine a way to get Chrysler to fix the problem and make available replacement parts.

------------------

This message has been edited by GaryE on 01-29-2018 at 01:12 PM

kayaksrfr1069


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posted 01-29-2018 01:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kayaksrfr1069     send a private message to kayaksrfr1069   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by kayaksrfr1069
Gary literally as I read your post I got an email from MyMoparParts saying the part was on backorder and they refunded my money... I found a set on eBay new for $240 shipped and just purchased them, a little cheaper than the Prowler store, TPS sells them for $289 and probably $1,600 shipping LOL.

Many thanks for all of the good info... Generally the car is babied but Im honestly afraid to pull her out of the garage right now after seeing the pics and reading the horror stories.

I checked my VIN on that site and it indeed was serviced by the previous owner for the recall in 03... However the replaced boots are destroyed at this point.

This message has been edited by kayaksrfr1069 on 01-29-2018 at 01:57 PM

CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 01-29-2018 05:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
Gee Gary I don't think their going to be able to fix this without some kind of replacement front suspension parts. That's probably not going to happen. We've all seen enough road tests and even driving the car ourselves and you can see the tire/fender dancing all over the road. I know there's been a ton of discussion on this. And there's really no good permanent fix out there. All we can do is monitor this and re-place as needed. However I'm still taking the approach that the more you can do to calm the front end down and stop it from bouncing around in the fashion it does will keep the tire more firmly contacted to the ground and possibility curtail the bj's getting pounded and failing the way they've been. When I replaced mine, at a little over 5k miles, I did so because of the failed boots. The original bj's once out and inspected were still tight and I could probably have installed new boots and they would be usable.I had installed my fantastic front suspension "C" brace some time ago. That totally changed the drive-ability not only from a road smoothness stand point but it took out a tremendous amount of the front suspension movement. To me...it seems that frame twist is acting like a huge spring that is serving no purpose other than allowing the front suspension to basically bounce around long before road irregularities can make it the shocks. I cannot tell you how much of a difference the brace made. It was night and day. It doesn't totally eliminate 100% all the front end chatter. BUT....my front suspension I would guess, now has more than 50% of all that front suspension bouncing around movement under control and my shocks are now doing their job without the frame twist adding to it.
Tomcal


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posted 01-29-2018 07:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tomcal     send a private message to Tomcal   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tomcal

Replacing rock hard run flat tires with non-run flats eliminates a good deal of front end bounce and improves overall ride quality.
kayaksrfr1069


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posted 01-29-2018 08:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kayaksrfr1069     send a private message to kayaksrfr1069   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by kayaksrfr1069
I did replace the tires with Nittos and also added the brace last week... and I did verify the X stamped on the BJ but the boots are completely split so theyre getting replaced. I dont know if reinforcing with shrink tubing will help add any strength or protect the from dry rot but we'll find out. Even the new boots look like the same crap material that (was) on the VSLs and the rear stabilizer links that split apart from probably dry rot.

FYI if this can help anyone, this is the guy I sent payment to... Maybe he has more or can acquire:
http://www.donscharfautomotive.net/

This message has been edited by kayaksrfr1069 on 01-29-2018 at 08:49 PM

Dano

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posted 01-29-2018 08:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dano     send a private message to Dano   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Dano
quote:
Originally posted by robin:

To get a ball joint the dealer will have to order this part # CBBTC030 box contains two get both done.


FYI - I called Dallas Dodge today and they informed me that the ball joints come 1 per box so you would have to order two of them to do both sides. Don't take my word for it, just make sure that you research before ordering...

robin


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posted 01-30-2018 10:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for robin     send a private message to robin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robin
Dano we called Dallas when Bradley had his incident. They don't have stock. By all means inquire how many in the box you are ordering.

If you order the recall kit there should be 2 in the box I'm paying 140 Canadian for the kit and I have three here with 2 in each box. CBBTC030


if you look at the one box it states one piece. I think that is what Dallas is reading. But every box I have ordered has two in it....confusing yes.

This message has been edited by robin on 01-30-2018 at 10:48 AM

GaryE





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posted 01-30-2018 10:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for GaryE     send a private message to GaryE   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by GaryE
I have ordered 20 or 30 of them for replacement when I do a chrome front suspension. They come with 2 ball joints. My big concern is where are they going to come from in the future. What can we do to get a solid answer from Chrysler about future production?

------------------

kayaksrfr1069


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posted 01-30-2018 02:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kayaksrfr1069     send a private message to kayaksrfr1069   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by kayaksrfr1069
Can someone tell me the actual torque spec for the lower ball joint? This forum page says 65 ft lbs:
http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20050221-14-000089-2.html

However the service recall instructions say 70 ft lbs:
http://www.prowlerexcitement.com/BallJointRecall/ServiceInstructions/Page006.htm

So which is it?

robin


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posted 01-30-2018 03:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for robin     send a private message to robin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robin
http://www.zianet.com/SLlover/page60a18.html


Lower Control Arm

Ball Joint Stud Nut

95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.)


This message has been edited by robin on 01-30-2018 at 03:43 PM

Guenter
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posted 01-31-2018 06:54 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Guenter     send a private message to Guenter   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Guenter
Hello Do I have to replace both lower arms or just the ball joints? Where can I get them for a fair price?
Can I use them from a Chrysler 300 M ?
It`s not so easy in Germany with this car
padroo



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posted 01-31-2018 09:09 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
quote:
Originally posted by Guenter:
Hello Do I have to replace both lower arms or just the ball joints? Where can I get them for a fair price?
Can I use them from a Chrysler 300 M ?
It`s not so easy in Germany with this car

The ball joints are replacable but the supply is tight at the moment. I went online and placed an order with a Chrysler dealer and they are out of stock. I am on their list when they are available. $72 EACH.

This message has been edited by padroo on 01-31-2018 at 09:11 AM

robin


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posted 01-31-2018 02:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for robin     send a private message to robin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robin
The ball joint can be bought separate.. The RIGHT SIDE a arm #4 in diagram is 960.
#4
4865322AA
Lower Control Arm, RIGHT
$1,395.00
$961.40

You will need to wait for some ball joints to come back in stock.
The Chrysler 300 ball joints WILL NOT fit.

robin


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posted 02-01-2018 10:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for robin     send a private message to robin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robin

CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 02-01-2018 12:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
Here's another issue to chew on. The ball joints are steel and the A-arms are aluminum. The factory ball joints originally installed, were coated with a material that stopped any corrosion between two unlike metals. Are the replacements coated??????
kayaksrfr1069


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posted 02-01-2018 01:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kayaksrfr1069     send a private message to kayaksrfr1069   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by kayaksrfr1069
Thank you Robin... I picked up some 1 1/2" dual wall marine grade shrink tubing to apply over the boots... I'll post up some pics when all of the parts come in.
robin


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posted 02-01-2018 02:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for robin     send a private message to robin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robin
no problem.
The ball joints do have a light coating of silver something paint?????

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