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  Ball joint failure at 40 MPH. (Page 6)

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Author Topic:   Ball joint failure at 40 MPH.
Tomcal


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posted 04-28-2018 01:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tomcal     send a private message to Tomcal   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tomcal

bryancobb,

This may help you with some ideas. Video explains their design concept.
http://www.esmrace.com/product-p/ecdc.esmfrtlbjk.htm


ESM Racing

ESMRACE.com

This message has been edited by Tomcal on 04-28-2018 at 01:56 PM

bryancobb
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From:Cartersville, GA, USA
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posted 04-28-2018 02:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bryancobb     send a private message to bryancobb   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by bryancobb
That's similar to what I was imagining except for a few subtle details I don't care for.

I LOVE the way his tapered bolt shank was done with a steel sleeve and a standard internal-wrenching SHCS. I DO NOT DO NOT like the way his spherical bearing loads into the housing from the top and is only secured by a tight fit and a tiny snap-ring groove.

My version loads from the bottom and is prevented from coming out the top at 40 MPH, by a beefy shoulder in the
housing.

THE BIGGEST difference is my spherical "ROLLER" bearing which actually rolls as the steering wheel is turned, where his plain spherical bearing just slides. It's basically a ball and socket like a regular ball-joint.

Is he prepared to work with the Prowler community to customize the fit for us. His will probably serve us just fine for years.

Here's a picture of the spherical SEE-SAW bearings on the head of my helicopter I built. These are Aurora brand aerospace grade precision spherical bearings. They have closer tolerance fits than standard ones. That's what the guy in the video shows.



quote:
Originally posted by Tomcal:

bryancobb,

This may help you with some ideas. Video explains their design concept.
http://www.esmrace.com/product-p/ecdc.esmfrtlbjk.htm


ESM Racing

ESMRACE.com


This message has been edited by bryancobb on 04-28-2018 at 02:58 PM

bryancobb
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posted 04-28-2018 03:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bryancobb     send a private message to bryancobb   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by bryancobb
I just watched several videos that show rebuildable Aurora spherical bearing ball joints that wore out prematurely. I get the impression that axially loading is not how aurora bearings are meant to be used. They do very well in slightly off-axis radial loading but high side loads wear them out quickly. I still feel the spherical roller bearing is the best kind for this load.
BradleyG


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posted 05-01-2018 09:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BradleyG     send a private message to BradleyG   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BradleyG
Back on the road again!!! 10 months is a long time to be in the garage. Took to the dealer (Dallas Dodge in Dallas). My service adviser knew very little about the Prowler, except what it is. Talked with the Viper/Prowler Technician. He moved here from Denver a few years ago and is very familiar with Prowlers. Made me feel comfortable leaving the car with him. Did a FAST and great job and lowered the labor cost from $450 to $390. Still too much for the job, but with me still recovering from surgery, no way I could have done it.
A GREAT BIG THANK YOU TO ROBIN FOR SENDING ME THE SET OF BALL JOINTS. Really, I cannot thank you enough.
Landscape Doctor



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posted 05-01-2018 09:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Landscape Doctor     send a private message to Landscape Doctor   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Landscape Doctor
Good to hear you are back on the road Bradley.


quote:
Originally posted by BradleyG:

A GREAT BIG THANK YOU TO ROBIN

TFischer





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posted 05-02-2018 07:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for TFischer     send a private message to TFischer   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by TFischer
That's awesome! Way to go Robin for helping Brad out. Glad you are back on the road again Brad.
BradleyG


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posted 05-21-2018 12:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BradleyG     send a private message to BradleyG   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BradleyG
There is NO EXCUSE to let this happen to you. We have had plenty of warning. I choose to ignore them and I am very fortunate that I was not hurt and only minor damage to my car.

These are replacement ball joints with 95,000 miles on them and I never checked for damage.

mslc10



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posted 05-22-2018 07:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mslc10     send a private message to mslc10   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by mslc10
Sure looks like uva rays have done their job !! You see any other joints out there that are translucent boots? Let alone an open a-arm that is exposed to sunlight. If we can just find a boot that can replace the translucent boot ,my guess is we’d be set.
CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 05-23-2018 12:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
The boot material was suspect because there have been since the beginning of this ball joint fiasco, indicators that the boot failures were the direct cause. Not so. While they definitely contribute to early ball joint problems, the other side of the coin is the normal pounding the ball joints take in general. So while a different boot material "MAY" stop premature failures, it won't stop long term failures. Realizing this unique problem just necessitates more owner awareness over maintenance in this area. But in saying that, a more durable boot would mean at the very least, we wouldn't have to swap out a ball joints just because of a torn boot.


Stroker

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posted 06-04-2018 11:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stroker     send a private message to Stroker   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Stroker
[img]

Which one would you like to have?
Prowlers have the example on the right
for front lowers.
Probably have example on left for rears.
Notice grease fitting?

CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 06-05-2018 11:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
Hi Stroker.......I'm not sure how to interpret your question. What do you mean which one we'd rather have. Our original front lower ball joints don't suffer from a lubrication problem.
Stroker

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posted 06-05-2018 12:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stroker     send a private message to Stroker   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Stroker
The picture will show the left ball joint is assembled from the bottom and the bottom of the stud is larger than the opening at the top. Also has a wear indicator and is able
to be greased which flushes any dirt or water away from the
wear points.
With the right example the safety depends on the bond
between the polymer and body and strength of polymer above the ball.
If lubrication is not important why do fronts fail and rears not when vehicle has near 50-50 weight distribution?
Tomcal


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posted 06-05-2018 04:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tomcal     send a private message to Tomcal   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tomcal

First... the above illustrations are "Artist Renditions" and should not be confused with actual Engineering "As Built" drawing.

If the plastic bearing material wears, it is still retained by metal that is hydraulically formed at manufacturing time around upper part of housing. (Prowler ball joint)

Chrysler in their engineering evaluation of failed ball joints determined that rubber boot failure allowing lose of lubricant and contaminants, water being one of them, to enter joint. Rust and contaminates abraded upper area of ball joint resulting in lose of metal, causing ball to pulling free from base.

Chrysler only partially addressed rubber boot issue in recall and boots continue to fail.

I've posted this Chrysler engineering report many times. They x-rayed, stress tested, you name it.

WE KNOW THE FAILURE MODE. And it's really TRW's fault as designer and supplier.

Aftermarket folks are doing the engineering on a possible replacement, not us. Better Boot material, lubrication, more metal, whatever. A new rebuildable joint would be ideal. Some aftermarket suppliers use this concept.

While in general it's good to through out ideas and theory's, lets leave the engineering to the people who make aftermarket ball joints.

Let's focus on those people working with aftermarket suppliers to develop a more robust joint. Thus far, we have POA folks communicating with potential suppliers and POA members providing parts samples.

Lets continue to give them our full support. I know I will.

This has been a public service message. Now back to your regularly scheduled programing.

...

ed monahan





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posted 06-05-2018 05:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
The rears do not take anywhere near the pounding that the fronts do. The rears probably do not rotate nearly as far under normal driving circumstances. Then again, I could be totally wrong.
Tomcal


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posted 06-06-2018 11:12 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tomcal     send a private message to Tomcal   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tomcal

Rear lower ball joint is not subject to torsional loads on boot. (rotational loads)

Front boots rotate corresponding to steering maneuvers, stressing boot. Rears do not rotate.

Rear lowers can be greased, prolonging life.

I'd venture to say rears take close to same pounding as fronts.

ed monahan





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posted 06-06-2018 04:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
The fronts turn, that is when they take MORE pounding than the rear. Probably not on a straight and level road, I agree.

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