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Author Topic:   Stabilizer bushings
katmat

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posted 08-11-2008 04:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for katmat     send a private message to katmat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by katmat
I'm looking to see if anyone has changed the upper & lower bushings? Chrysler says that they sell the hole unit ($67.00 each).
thanks,
Matt Murphy
BeWare





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posted 08-11-2008 05:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
Chrysler does not sell just the bushing. You will have to make your own or buy the entire unit.

See this thread http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/003310.html

And this one http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/003336.html

This message has been edited by BeWare on 08-11-2008 at 05:21 PM

spoons


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posted 08-12-2008 09:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
If you replace the vertical sway bars with the original part, then you'll have to replace them again in 4-8 years.

I have come up with a permanent fix for this:

Give me until the end of August to finalize this design. I am anticipating a cost under $100 ($50 each). This will be a permanent fix with steel rod ends and an aluminum connecting rod.

------------------
Brian K. Richardson
West Palm Beach, FL
http://www.brianrichardson.net

1997 Purple W/ 1997 Mopar Trailer
ProwlerPRO Gears ~ TGF Metalcrafters Rear Spoiler ~ Mopar Borla Prowler Exhaust ~ Removed Front Bumpers (Tom Mill's Trun signal relo) ~ Splash Guards(Front + Back) ~ Ceramic brake pads (front) ~ "Cracked Ice" shimmers on rear bumpers ~ Magic Touch Design 2.2 Air Intake ~ Purple Painted Shift Bezel ~ Trailer Leather Bra ~ Complete, Speaker Upgrade ~ Front Suspension Brace ~ 2001 Prowler Ignition Key ~ Louvered Transmission Cover

ed monahan





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posted 08-12-2008 11:30 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
Doesn't Larry Lord's wonder bar take care of that entire problem, plus give you a better ride?
idive


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posted 08-12-2008 11:42 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for idive     send a private message to idive   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by idive
I'm thinking this is a replacement for those that have blown bushings and no Wonderbar.
Did the Wonderbar replace the bushings? If I remember right it didn't.
katmat

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posted 08-12-2008 08:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for katmat     send a private message to katmat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by katmat
Are these the bushings?

zoom 2000-2001 Plymouth Prowler - Mevotech Sway Bar Link Kit


Our Price: $21.82Quantity: Part Number: MEMK7348MFR#: MK7348"MEVOTECH STABILIZER BAR LINK KIT, FRONT, SOLD INDIVIDUALLY -- A High Quality, Direct Fit OE Replacement Stabilizer Bar Link Kit"



Found on Auto parts warehouse !-800-913-6119




spoons


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posted 08-12-2008 08:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
Larry Lord stabilizer bar is only for the horizontal, NOT vertical.


Mevotek stabilizer kits looks like it only repairs the top bushing...what about the bottom tie rod? Or am I missing something?

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQDodgeQQNeonQQMevotech QQSway_Bar_Link_KitQQ20002005QQMEMK7348.html
I am all ears for a cheaper and superior product.

My design is self lubricating and most likely will never have to be replace. They use these type of connecting rods on race cars and SAE cars. The engineer I am working with stated the Prowler prototype had these type of links on it?

This message has been edited by spoons on 08-12-2008 at 08:44 PM

MDProwler



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posted 08-13-2008 06:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for MDProwler     send a private message to MDProwler   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by MDProwler
Brian,
I believe those tie rod ends you are using will last the life of the car with no problem.
BeWare





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posted 08-13-2008 02:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
Brian, AWESOME. I will buy a set when you get them ready to sell.
DFOTOPRO


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posted 08-13-2008 02:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for DFOTOPRO     send a private message to DFOTOPRO   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by DFOTOPRO
put me down for a set also

dj

WILD THING

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posted 08-25-2008 07:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for WILD THING     send a private message to WILD THING   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by WILD THING
so where do these get mounted to? on the stock sway bar?
what if you have larry lords swaybar, and how easy are they to install.

spoons


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posted 08-25-2008 08:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
Removal of the old vertical sway bars:

1. Remove the long bolt that attached the upper part of the sway bar. The bolt head (front) requires 13mm socket and the rear nut requires 15mm socket or a crescent wrench will do.

2. Once each bolt on upper part of each sway bar has been removed push down on both vertical sway bars so the lower horizontal sway bar on the bottom clears the bottom of the car and frame.

3. Then use an 18mm socket to remove the nut from the bottom, tie-rod end of the vertical sway bars. This may require jacking the car or parking the nose over a swale.

This message has been edited by spoons on 08-25-2008 at 08:48 PM

spoons


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posted 08-25-2008 08:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
Can you post a photo of Larry Lords stabilizer bar installed? I believe mine will fit since they are the same dimensions as the original vertical sway bars?

Can you measure the clearance holes in the Larry's stabilizer bar? I bet they are 1/2" clearance holes (.580")?

spoons


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posted 08-25-2008 08:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
My vertical sway bars a nearly complete and I will post photos my mid-week. I would like to test them out on my Prowler first before I give you guys the green light. I am hoping my car will be back from dealer by the end of the week.

** Stay Tuned **

This message has been edited by spoons on 08-25-2008 at 08:45 PM

BeWare





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posted 08-26-2008 08:57 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
Thanks Brian
Larry Lord


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posted 08-26-2008 09:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Larry Lord     send a private message to Larry Lord   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Larry Lord
Best of luck with your project Brian but just to be clear, the parts you are trying to make are not called stabilizer bars or vertical sway bars.


If you are designing parts, you should at the very least know what they are called. What you are trying to assemble is called a stabilizer link.
Using Heim joints and threaded shaft links for stabilizer links has been around for years, used mostly in racing applications.

The other links pictured are a style used for many years by many manufacturers but they will not work on a Prowler.

By just removing the plastic seals around the ends of your current links, you have almost exactly the same thing you are trying to re-invent.
The links on the Prowler are covered to keep grease in and dirt out but I doubt anyone will ever wear them out even with little or no lube. Just remove your seals and give it a try. You have nothing to lose and just may save a few bucks.

One more quick word of advice,
The problem with the Heim setup is that the overall length of the links need to be exactly and consistantly the same length.
Any variation can cause a preload condition to the sway bar. I would suggest using a non adjustable style link to keep your customers and yourself, out of trouble.
Hole sizes are another issue that needs to be closely monitored.
Undersized bolts or oversized holes are just problems waiting to happen. Be sure you do your homework before you put parts on the market for general use. Double check your clearances, tolerances and bolt grades then preset and lock the links before selling them.

Wonder Bar installation video by Mike Gatlin the "Video King"

This message has been edited by Larry Lord on 08-26-2008 at 10:04 PM

spoons


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posted 08-27-2008 06:52 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
Larry Lord,

Thanks for the advice. Yes, I do realize the importance of making the stabilizer link match the dimensions of the OEM part. Your right about having the risk for pre-load, but as long as the stablizer links are the same length pre-load is not an issue. I have an plan to ensure my stabilizer links are the same length. You do make a valid point that the OEM stablizer link without the seals will work, but they look like crap next to the Koni shocks.

FYI: My day job is a Mechanical Engineer and have reversed engineered several components in the past. The idea of my vertical stabilizer link does come from dirt track and SAE cars.

This message has been edited by spoons on 08-27-2008 at 10:37 AM

spoons


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posted 09-03-2008 09:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
Sorry for the delay. My Prowler has out-of-service for 26 days for having the tranny bell housing assembly replaced and not getting parts delivered on time. Below is a photo of the stabilizer links I have designed. Keep in mind this is not a complete assembly yet because I am missing the misalignment spacers for the "top" rod end joint that will ensure the proper offset and will accept the original 10mm bolt (show on the left).


Please give me a week or two to get these installed in my own vehicle when I get it back (hopefully this week). If interested please let me know?

This message has been edited by spoons on 09-16-2008 at 08:49 PM

catfish




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posted 09-03-2008 09:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
the blue bushings are not frt stabilizer bushings.they are totally different than then stk ones .they look more like rr end links not the frt.wont work.

------------------

spoons


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posted 09-16-2008 08:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
Sorry for the delay....but here are the stabilizer bars I have designed:






The center connecting rod is Aluminum and the rod ends and nut are grade 8.

MadCat

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posted 11-26-2008 07:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MadCat     send a private message to MadCat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by MadCat
Beautiful!!!!
dbudner

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posted 11-26-2008 09:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dbudner     send a private message to dbudner   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by dbudner
Very nice. I am interested. I assume they will polish out pretty easy (or maybe come that way )
spoons


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posted 11-27-2008 08:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
If interested in purchasing CLICK HERE


It will take me approximately 1-2 weeks to acquire some of the parts.

------------------
Brian K. Richardson
West Palm Beach, FL
http://www.brianrichardson.net

1997 Purple W/ 1997 Mopar Trailer
ProwlerPRO Gears ~ TGF Metalcrafters Rear Spoiler ~ Mopar Borla Prowler Exhaust ~ Removed Front Bumpers (Tom Mill's Trun signal relo) ~ Splash Guards(Front + Back) ~ Ceramic brake pads (front) ~ "Cracked Ice" shimmers on rear bumpers ~ Magic Touch Design 2.2 Air Intake ~ Purple Painted Shift Bezel ~ Trailer Leather Bra ~ Complete, Speaker Upgrade ~ Front Suspension Brace ~ 2001 Prowler Ignition Key ~ Louvered Transmission Cover

quincy



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posted 11-27-2008 10:28 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for quincy     send a private message to quincy   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by quincy
spoons, those puppies are not going any where. Kraut would be proud of you! Nice job and a perfect fit! Keep us up to speed when quantities are available.
spoons


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posted 11-27-2008 10:44 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
How many of you would like a set? Please post:

So far I have interest in 2 sets.


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