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weswman	How easy is this to do on my own? I'm pretty knowledgable but it didn't come with any directions. Can someone send me a pic of their kit on the car? This would be a huge help. Also, can I install this from the top of the engine or do I have to get under the car? Any help would be great. Thanks, Wes.
ALLEY CAT	wessup - there are several models out there on the market,,,,which did you buy? I have the MTD brand cool air induction system, and it does require most of the work to install from under the car.
weswman	It's similar to the RSI setup. Just a chrome elbow tube with a K&N cone air filter at the end. The company said I Just need to remove the stock air box and replace it with the new one. I didn't realize the box was closer to the bottom than it was to the top. I don't know which way to point this thing either. Instructions would have been nice from this company. Let me know if anyone can help. Thanks, Wes.
GRROWL	Most people break the stock airbox when taking it out. If you want to not break it, I suggest removing the side panel and the coolant "overflow" tank. After that, it's easy. It works best if you combine the air intake changeout with a coolant change since you'll need to "burp" the cooling system if you remove the tank. For details, see: http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/001144.html -GRROWL P.S. - In hindsight, I sometimes think that I should have stopped with the K&N filter in the stock airbox due to the high underhood temperatures going into the "cold"-air intake. There were active discussions on this in the past if you want to research it.
Northern Cat	It's very easy....remove your passenger side panel....three bolts..(make sure the same bolts go back in the same holes when reinstalling the panel) bring the top of the panel toward you , lift and remove, This will give you access to the cold air box..two bolts if I remember ...go easy and you won't break the box in case you ever want to reinstall it.. Don.. ------------------
Bob Goetz	FYI anyone that has bought a cold air kit for less than $150 take a close look at the air cleaner, the cheap kits are not using brand name air cleaners but cheap knock offs and when the glue gets hot the element falls off the backer plate. ------------------ < CLICK HERE FOR NEW REALROD.COM PARTS > < Click on my banner to go to realrod.com >
weswman	Does anybody have a pic of theirs installed? It seems that the stock air box points down, this new air intake has a bent tube and I don't know which way to point it. A pic would be a huge help. Let me know, Wes.
pumpkin	quote: Originally posted by weswman: Does anybody have a pic of theirs installed? It seems that the stock air box points down, this new air intake has a bent tube and I don't know which way to point it. A pic would be a huge help. Let me know, Wes. This is what ours looks like - looking from the bottom up: From behind the side panel: ------------------ Current mods: Mopar dual exhaust & front mudflaps; MacMotorsports Air Intake; Real Rod Air Patrol; Graphics by Balistek Designs; ($8) Chrome grille; Chrome tire valve-stem covers; Painted rear bumper lettering; Prowler Pro Gears; Synthetic Oil; Raybestos Ceramic Brake Pads; TGF Door Panel Inserts & Headrest Covers; SheepskinExpress Sheepskin Seatcovers; Grille Light; Pinstriping by Bo Boring; Painted Valve Cover; Window Tinting; Windshield Visor Banner; Front Bumper Removal / Relocation of Front Turn Signal Lights; Real Rod Transmission Cooler Cover, Sill and Carper Covers, Aero Front Covers and Roadster Rear Pan, rear bumpers removed; rear mudflaps; painted calipers; Prowler Products by Gary Drilled Rotors, front and rear; Painted tach; Jay's Aluminum Billet Center Caps w/shimmers, Chrome Lugnuts and Chrome Radio Bezel Shimmer; Dash Rings; Windshield Wiper Arm Removal; Fender Trim; Speaker Replacement; Painted Plenum; Painted Radiator Crossmember; Painted Rear Mudflaps; Air Patrol graphics; Aluminum engine compartment support bars; PlasmaGlow 7-color LED Underbody Kit; Dash Designs Dash Mat. More 'Pumpkin' photos . . . . . More cars and other stuff New pictures in Personal Scrapbook (02/23/03) "I may have to grow older, but I do not have to grow up!" "The Prowler is not a car to go from Point A to Point B. The Prowler is the Point!"
weswman	Thank you so much. That's what I needed. Wes.
Pipes	Just a word of caution, if you have the same assembly as Pumpkin showed in his picture. (Speaking from experience.) Be careful to position the shield so it doesn't rub on any of the wiring. It will cut through insulation and cause all sorts of problems. Bob AKA Pipes
pumpkin	quote: Originally posted by Pipes: Just a word of caution, if you have the same assembly as Pumpkin showed in his picture. (Speaking from experience.) Be careful to position the shield so it doesn't rub on any of the wiring. It will cut through insulation and cause all sorts of problems. Bob AKA Pipes very true.
pumpkin	quote: Originally posted by Pipes: Just a word of caution, if you have the same assembly as Pumpkin showed in his picture. (Speaking from experience.) Be careful to position the shield so it doesn't rub on any of the wiring. It will cut through insulation and cause all sorts of problems. Bob AKA Pipes very true.
weswman	Hmmm. Mine is the same except my heat shield goes all the way around the filter. Should I cut the heat shield away from the filter on top? Seems that's where the wires are resting against the filter. Let me know, Wes.
Black Tie 161	If mine had a shield that went all the way around, I would be tempted to leave it as is....extra protection against wires rubbing raw on the element. For the record, my MTD 2.2 filter intake seperated from the base due to cheap glue. I refit it with 3M tape.
GRROWL	quote: Originally posted by Black Tie 161: For the record, my MTD 2.2 filter intake seperated from the base due to cheap glue. I refit it with 3M tape. quote: Originally posted by GRROWL: Two problems with the MTD - 1. They fall apart and allow unfiltered air into the engine, it's been posted a lot, you can find it with a search. 2. There has been a lot of discussion about how it takes in HOT underhood air vs. the stock airbox taking in ambient air through the doorframe, a search will also show this. Best option may be a free-flow filter in the stock box. -GRROWL This is the piece that falls off when the glue melts from the high underhood temperature: