I’ve been researching threads to remove my dash for months now and finally the other day my tire pressure module went south which meant I was confronted with removing the dash to get her un-plugged.

After reading numerous posts on the matter, it appears for around 20 years Prowler owners have been confronted with the difficult task of removing the dash. Some guys have even made tools to fit in the space between the shield and dash to hopefully release its retainers. While has worked for most, this method is not the proper way to remove the dash on a prowler.

Today after spending hours tugging and pulling and even after making special tools to fit in front of the dash, mine was not coming out. Making matters worse, the right side of the dash was so tight up to the windshield, my tool would not even fit in crevice. Finally, after 2-3 hours, I finally reached the conclusion there had to be a method other than what guys were using to remove the dash. Evidently, there must have been an attempt to remove the dash by the last owner, since there were scratches on the black paint on my windshield where someone had been prying on it.

Having worked in a Mercedes Benz body shop in my younger days, I’m seen some strange panel attaching methods, the Prowler couldn’t be as complicated a Benz. There had to be a way to pry the dash back again a solid panel to un-snap the retainers.

Finally after another hour an studying the dash I found a way . . . . by carefully pushing in on the lower dash panel, I could slip my wide trim tool between the fixed dash body panel and the dash top, then by pushing down with a mere few ounces of pressure, the dash slid right off its retainers on the left side. Moving to the right side, the tool slipped right in and presto my dash was off.

I have included a few images below of the correct position of the tool. It takes just seconds to position it in place. This trim removal tool set can be found at your local auto-parts store or online, this one came from O-Riley’s Auto Parts and has been valuable when I installed my vertical doors when removing the the door panels.

While we’re here talking about the dash - I’ll go ahead and include a few images to show the location of the tire module which is located on the left portion of the dash closest to you. Just unplug the connector and you can tuck the pug in the wire bundle just to the left of the sensor, make sure the connector is restrained with a wire tie so it can’t rattle on the dash.

Next you’ll want to remove the Bulb - On my Prowler after I unhooked the sensor, the light remained on, so I needed to remove the bulb. There is three clips that hold the bulb fixture, just pry up on the tabs to release them and delete the bulb by pulling straight out. Make sure you get the right bulb or you’ll be doing the removal again.

Finally, before you install the dash, get yourself a can of Silicon spray and lightly spray all the clips on the dash panel. This will make it easy for them to snap in place and in the unlikely event you have to remove the dash, it will aid in allowing the clips to release easily. Regarding the TPS system, I’m installing some caps to do the same job.

Enjoy - Mike Mas

In follow up of my Post on Easy Dash Removal

I wanted to show a close-up detail of the clips & guides and a few other tips to help prevent dash rattles.

It’s important to note the four plastic attaching points on the dash up by the windshield are only guides, there is nothing on these to lock the panel in place. There is also a piece of a rubber type Styrofoam on two of the forward guides to hopefully prevent them from moving and or squeaking, check or replace this foam with rubber if needed.

The dash is restrained and locked in place only by the 10 metal clips located by the instruments side of the dash. These are the ones which lock the dash in place, which is why it was so difficult to remove the dash using the old method, since as you pulled the dash by the windshield, the motion was lost in the flex of the dash. This is also why the dash releases so easily as shown in my article since this is where the fasteners are located.

This is one of the ten metal locking fasteners that restrains and locks the dash in place.

This is one of the four forward guides which holds the forward part of the dash in place.

Be certain to use Silicon spray on both fastener types since it aids for the clips to lock in place and release easily. In addition, the the silicon spray will also prevent squeaks on all the fasteners as the dash moves and flexes as we drive over rough roads.

As another precaution to prevent rattles and squeaks, aside from the silicon spray on the fasteners is you’ll want to check the height of the rubber pads close to the windshield. You can add extra pads if you wish, I noticed there was no rubber pads on the far right and left of the dash, so I added them.

This is an image from inside the cab showing the forward guide receptacle and dash pad.

These rubber pads are what hold the dash away from the Prowler’s metal alloy dash structure. I keep a roll of one sided sticky topper bed tape in the shop. I went ahead and replaced my pads to keep the dash isolated

Also, if you disconnect the TPS circuit like I did, you can tuck the plug into the wire bundle on the left of the module. To prevent this and the other connectors from reaching the dash panel and rattling, I installed a piece of topper tape to isolate them.

Regards - Mike

Wire bundle and TPS connectors isolated from rattling on dash.