posted 08-01-2004 02:29 PM                  

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Current mods: Mopar dual exhaust & front mudflaps; MacMotorsports Air Intake;
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bumpers removed; rear mudflaps; painted calipers; Prowler Products by Gary
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posted 08-01-2004 05:51 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by SR Roberts:
only jacked 1 front tire at a time. And what is the torque on the lug nuts?

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Did you jack your Prowler from the frame pads or from under the lower a-arm, I can't see a problem if you did it from the lower a-arm location ( and probably not even from the frame pads as long as you didn't raise it too high ). The lug nut torque spec is 100 ft/lbs, if you really want to get picky it's wise to first torque to 50 then 75 and finish with 100 ft/lbs. JMO

posted 08-01-2004 09:22 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by SR Roberts:
I was looking at Dan Pena flat repair today. He had the tech to jack up the front and rear on the same side [although he only repairing the front tire]. Dan said this was to prevent damage to the chassis welds. I installed my front mud guards today and only jacked 1 front tire at a time. Is this a real concerne? And what is the torque on the lug nuts?

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If jacking the car like this could damage the welds I think I would be afraid to drive the car. I believe this frame is stronger than that and I see no mention in the service manual about jacking one corner at a time. When I work on the front wheels I always jack under the A-arm near the lower ball joint with a piece of wood bewteen the jack and the A-arm.

posted 08-02-2004 12:25 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by Dave Mills:
From what I have been told, the kat should never be jacked up on one corner only. I always jack the car evenly, either side to side or front to rear.

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Have not jacked the car up on one corner only, usually I need to get the whole car up off the ground so here is what I do, although this can be done for front or rear only:

Rear first, easier to access (use a piece of rubber on the jack so as not to scratch the crossmember), center the jack -

Then the front (use a hockey puck on the jack, no scratches and gives more height to jack right away), center the jack -

I'm sure there are other ways, but this works for me.

posted 08-02-2004 05:08 PM                  

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posted 08-03-2004 09:38 AM                  

if simply jacking the car from one point breaks welds, this car should not be fit for the road. I've always been told that the welded frame is stronger than most other frames.

Are we perpetuating an "old wives tale" about the car?

Has ANYONE ever ACTUALLY broken a weld by simply lifting one corner of the car?!?

Lugs are 100 ft lbs but tighten each to 50 all around before final tightening to 100 as manual specifies.

posted 08-03-2004 01:30 PM                  

If I'm pulling the tire, I'll lift just enough so the tire is only about 2-3 inches off the ground...anything else is overkill.

posted 08-03-2004 02:42 PM                  

I'd be afraid the 2x6 board would snap in the middle, but I like the idea! Plus you have to get that jack right smack in the middle or it will teeter?

posted 08-03-2004 10:03 PM                  

Here's a trick I learned while working in the tight confines of the pit spaces and garages at race tracks.
You can actually do all of this from one side of the car, allowing you to put your car on stands while one side is only a few inches away from a wall. To do this, just jack up one side, set your stands, lower the jack and slide it across underneath the car to the other frame rail, jack up the car and set your other 2 stands.

Before I get chastized or corrected by the few who will feel the need to educate me,,,
I know this is not what the book says. However I've done this many times over the years with all types of cars and have never had any damage whatsoever. The 2 x 4 protects the aluminum of the frame as well as distributing the lifting pressure of the jack.

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Larry (Cruise Control) Lord
Larry@FMBbox.com
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