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SR Roberts	I was looking at Dan Pena flat repair today. He had the tech to jack up the front and rear on the same side [although he only repairing the front tire]. Dan said this was to prevent damage to the chassis welds. I installed my front mud guards today and only jacked 1 front tire at a time. Is this a real concerne? And what is the torque on the lug nuts?
pumpkin	I believe 100ft lbs. ------------------ Current mods: Mopar dual exhaust & front mudflaps; MacMotorsports Air Intake; Real Rod Air Patrol; Graphics by Balistek Designs; ($8) Chrome grille; Chrome tire valve-stem covers; Painted rear bumper lettering; Prowler Pro Gears; Synthetic Oil; Raybestos Ceramic Brake Pads; TGF Door Panel Inserts & Headrest Covers; SheepskinExpress Sheepskin Seatcovers; Grille Light; Pinstriping by Bo Boring; Painted Valve Cover; Window Tinting; Windshield Visor Banner; Front Bumper Removal / Relocation of Front Turn Signal Lights; Real Rod Transmission Cooler Cover, Sill and Carper Covers, Aero Front Covers and Roadster Rear Pan, rear bumpers removed; rear mudflaps; painted calipers; Prowler Products by Gary Drilled Rotors, front and rear; Painted tach; Jay's Aluminum Billet Center Caps w/shimmers, Chrome Lugnuts and Chrome Radio Bezel Shimmer; Dash Rings; Windshield Wiper Arm Removal; Fender Trim; Speaker Replacement; Painted Plenum; Painted Radiator Crossmember; Painted Rear Mudflaps; Air Patrol graphics; Aluminum engine compartment support bars; PlasmaGlow 7-color LED Underbody Kit; Dash Designs Dash Mat; and Airbrushed Rear Trim Panel. More 'Pumpkin' photos . . . . . More cars and other stuff New pictures in Personal Scrapbook (02/23/03) "I may have to grow older, but I do not have to grow up!" "The Prowler is not a car to go from Point A to Point B. The Prowler is the Point!"
Dave Mills	From what I have been told, the kat should never be jacked up on one corner only. I always jack the car evenly, either side to side or front to rear.
Al's Prowler	quote: Originally posted by SR Roberts: only jacked 1 front tire at a time. And what is the torque on the lug nuts? Did you jack your Prowler from the frame pads or from under the lower a-arm, I can't see a problem if you did it from the lower a-arm location ( and probably not even from the frame pads as long as you didn't raise it too high ). The lug nut torque spec is 100 ft/lbs, if you really want to get picky it's wise to first torque to 50 then 75 and finish with 100 ft/lbs. JMO Al
MDProwler	quote: Originally posted by SR Roberts: I was looking at Dan Pena flat repair today. He had the tech to jack up the front and rear on the same side [although he only repairing the front tire]. Dan said this was to prevent damage to the chassis welds. I installed my front mud guards today and only jacked 1 front tire at a time. Is this a real concerne? And what is the torque on the lug nuts? If jacking the car like this could damage the welds I think I would be afraid to drive the car. I believe this frame is stronger than that and I see no mention in the service manual about jacking one corner at a time. When I work on the front wheels I always jack under the A-arm near the lower ball joint with a piece of wood bewteen the jack and the A-arm.
pumpkin	quote: Originally posted by Dave Mills: From what I have been told, the kat should never be jacked up on one corner only. I always jack the car evenly, either side to side or front to rear. Have not jacked the car up on one corner only, usually I need to get the whole car up off the ground so here is what I do, although this can be done for front or rear only: Rear first, easier to access (use a piece of rubber on the jack so as not to scratch the crossmember), center the jack - Then the front (use a hockey puck on the jack, no scratches and gives more height to jack right away), center the jack - I'm sure there are other ways, but this works for me. This message has been edited by pumpkin on 08-04-2004 at 12:51 AM
catfish	pumpkin,the rear xmemeber is not a jacking point.i wouldn't do it on mine.to answer the other questions,there are really only 4 places,always jack it up from there and put stands where ever.what happens is, lets say you jack upn the lt.frt,when you get it high enogh to clear the ground,if you notice it will start lifting the rt.frt.off ground also,it starts to put a twist,or pressure on rt.frt,thats not being jacked up.the same applies to rear,if you get it high enough,lets say ,lt.rear,it will start to lift lt.frt. off ground also.4 points-frt.rubber pad on frame rail and rear where small triangle hole is in frt.of rr.tire.sr roberts this post belongs in tech. ------------------ This message has been edited by jan bruggeman on 08-02-2004 at 05:11 PM
Black Tie 161	Nowhere in the manual does it warn not to jack the car up from one point. if simply jacking the car from one point breaks welds, this car should not be fit for the road. I've always been told that the welded frame is stronger than most other frames. Are we perpetuating an "old wives tale" about the car? Has ANYONE ever ACTUALLY broken a weld by simply lifting one corner of the car?!? Lugs are 100 ft lbs but tighten each to 50 all around before final tightening to 100 as manual specifies.
catfish	im not saying that,common sense says if you jack it up at one point,say lt rr.and its high enough to pull another wheel off the ground,that you should put a jack stand under point you just jacked up and also under other wheel that is off the ground.yes thes frames are strong,but im not going to let, lets say the other part of car hang in the air w/no support.this is intended for people w/o a manual.no where in the manual does it say to put a stand under wheel thats off groud,but i would.these frames are very very rigid,thats why it will pull the other wheel off the ground. ive never seen any other car do that.shows you how rigid it is. ------------------
Black Tie 161	jan: I agree! To be fair, I would never jack the car up enough so another tire lifts off the floor. If you have to jack the car up THAT much, then it's time to take it to a lift. If I'm pulling the tire, I'll lift just enough so the tire is only about 2-3 inches off the ground...anything else is overkill. The only bummer is that the hydraulic lift hogs up the lift pad in front leaving no room to slide a jack stand under the same pad. I just leave the car on the jack and put a stand next to it for back-up under the frame adjoining the lift pad.
catfish	sometimes on those 4 arm lifts,the arm will contact the rocker panel before the pad and you need to use a short 2/4 to make it clear,otherwise rocker damage.i think i had the lfrt.wheel about 3" off the ground and it was starting to pull the rt.frt.off the ground.you forget im old and need it as high as possible,dont have access to a lift. ------------------
ed monahan	I drive it up on a couple of 2" x 6" boards to get it up off the ground and then you can use another 2 x 6 to span between the pads and jack it up in the middle. I just bought some $ 20 ramps at Wal-Mart that are about 8 or 9 inches high. If you are not taking off the wheels, that works great.
Black Tie 161	I backed my car up on ramps, and had plenty of room for anything. I'd be afraid the 2x6 board would snap in the middle, but I like the idea! Plus you have to get that jack right smack in the middle or it will teeter? Either way, I'd still just jack the car up just enough to get the tire off, and anything else would involve ramps.
ed monahan	jack it up and put jack stands under it. Use 2 - 2x6s for more strength.
Larry Lord	I just use a piece of 2 x 4 about 24" long placed on top of the jack pad, parallel with and under your frame at the side of the car. Place the jack and 2 x 4 about 12" rearward of the centerline, under the frame of your car. Jack up one side until your jack stands will fit under the car, place your jack stands under the jack points and then carefully lower your car. If you want to put your car on four stands just repeat this process for the other side and you are done. Here's a trick I learned while working in the tight confines of the pit spaces and garages at race tracks. You can actually do all of this from one side of the car, allowing you to put your car on stands while one side is only a few inches away from a wall. To do this, just jack up one side, set your stands, lower the jack and slide it across underneath the car to the other frame rail, jack up the car and set your other 2 stands. Before I get chastized or corrected by the few who will feel the need to educate me,,, I know this is not what the book says. However I've done this many times over the years with all types of cars and have never had any damage whatsoever. The 2 x 4 protects the aluminum of the frame as well as distributing the lifting pressure of the jack. ------------------ Larry (Cruise Control) Lord Larry@FMBbox.com Products for your Prowler and Trailer: Wonder Bar Stabilizer Bars - Upright Trailer Storage Stands - Deck Lid Hinge Protectors - Trailer Latch Reinforcement Kits - KatRack Stowable Cargo Carriers - Pro-Strap Velcro Tie Straps - Keyed Alike Chrome Coupler Locksets - Logo Caps - Chrome Receiver Locks - Chrome Coupler Locks FMB Prowler Products. This message has been edited by Larry Lord on 08-03-2004 at 10:06 PM
Black Tie 161	Larry: that's an interesting tip.... I can picture it.