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Author | Topic: HVAC Problem |
AJAK POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St. Clair, Michigan, USA |
posted 10-11-2017 12:15 PM
BCM Removal Update by AJAK: Well, I removed the driver's seat and put the top down to allow more room to get at the BCM. I was able to remove both the back (towards the Rear) two (2) nuts and the front (towards the hood) lower nut. I am having fits trying to get at the front upper nut. Perhaps someone that has removed the BCM can give me a hint on how they got at that upper front nut to allow removal. Again, I appreciate all of the help and suggestions I have received. Regards, AJAK |
robin POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St Thomas Ontario Canada |
posted 10-11-2017 12:26 PM
Did you see the last few threads example Steve's and Buddy's take your time regroup when you get frustrated that helps sometimes. Don't hurt your back. |
ClayD Prowler Junkie From:Colorado |
posted 10-11-2017 01:54 PM
If I remember, I think what I did was put a deep socket on the nut with my fingers and it stuck out far enough that I could insert a u-joint on the end of an extension into the socket. |
AJAK POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St. Clair, Michigan, USA |
posted 10-11-2017 02:41 PM
Clay: Thanks for your input, I have ordered a flexible extension for my 1/4" socket drive and I will try and get at the nut with the extension. Did you have to lay on your back to get at the nut or were you able to get at it without doing that? Regards, AJAK |
ClayD Prowler Junkie From:Colorado |
posted 10-11-2017 09:36 PM
I was laying on my right side, sort of hanging across the door opening with my shoulder on the floor of the car. Not very comfy! |
AJAK POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St. Clair, Michigan, USA |
posted 10-13-2017 11:39 AM
Clay: Thanks for your reply, I did lay on my right side and was able to remove the BCM. I just cleaned the connections in the BCM and the Plugs. I am taking a break and will put the dielectric grease on the plugs in a little while after my body returns to normal. You were right it is not comfy. I will let you know if all this solved the problem when I am finished. Kind of funny in that I did not think I was going to be able to get out but I managed to do that. Regards, AJAK |
AJAK POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St. Clair, Michigan, USA |
posted 10-13-2017 03:37 PM
Update: Removed the BCM, used contact cleaner on the BCM connections and the three (3) plugs, put dielectric grease on the plug connections using a makeup brush, put everything back together and it did not solve the problem. I guess I will sell the Prowler and give the new Owner a $2,000.00 deduction so they can have the dash removed to repair the mode door. Again, THANK YOU to everyone that provided suggestions and ideas, they all helped in the process. Regards and HAPPY Prowling, AJAK |
robin POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St Thomas Ontario Canada |
posted 10-13-2017 04:27 PM
WOW that is so disheartening. BCM ? one last option is replace this the whole temp control unit. send it back if not working. ebay// http://moduleexperts.com/modules/chrysler-bcm-repair/ This message has been edited by robin on 10-13-2017 at 04:40 PM |
AJAK POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St. Clair, Michigan, USA |
posted 10-13-2017 06:37 PM
Robin: I have ordered a new HVAC Blower Control to replace what I have now per your suggestion. I will let you know how that works out. What I noticed after I did the work on the BCM is that the air would come out the dash after the reset and then after a short time it would go to the floor and then go to defrost. I tried to reset the mode door by disconnecting the battery ground for a little over 60 seconds and that is what the result was. I performed the reset several times again and the result was similar two what I had in the beginning of this project. Basically I did not see any change in the action of the blower mode door than what I had in the beginning. I will try anything that might work as I do not want to have the dash/instrument panel removed which is what the manual says has to be done to get at the mode door motor assembly. The mode door moves it just doesn't seem to stay in the correct position as it moves by itself without any change in the selector switch and always ends up in the defrost mode only. Regards, AJAK |
AJAK POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St. Clair, Michigan, USA |
posted 10-18-2017 11:12 AM
I would like to know if anyone knows the part number for a 1999 Plymouth Prowler "Mode Door Actuator/Motor" in case I have to replace mine? I have found some that are available but want to be sure of the correct part number in case I order one. Thanks, AJAK |
robin POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St Thomas Ontario Canada |
posted 10-18-2017 11:32 AM
actuator door part number 04815502AB http://www.moparpartsamerica.com/parts/1999/Plymouth/Prowler/Base?siteid=214583&vehicleid=85046&diagram=ST97115
This message has been edited by robin on 10-18-2017 at 12:05 PM |
robin POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St Thomas Ontario Canada |
posted 10-18-2017 12:09 PM
http://www.moparfactorystore.com/oem-parts/mopar-actuator-4815502ab/?c=aT1TVDk3MTE1NCZyPTM%3D
|
AJAK POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St. Clair, Michigan, USA |
posted 10-20-2017 02:44 PM
Robin: I received the blower switch assembly (Blower, Air Direction, Heat/Cool and air source. I purchased mine from Rock Auto as the one they had seemed to be a very good quality unit and I have had some problems purchasing items on e-Bay in the past with quality and misrepresentations. They had two (2) versions and I purchased the better one. I have not had a chance to install it yet and I thought, depending on room, I would just hook up the wiring before I remove the entire unit from the Prowler to see if that is the problem. It looks like there are two (2) plugs and of course the two (2) cables to change. Thanks for your interest, I will let you know what the result is. Probably will work on it next week as this has been a recover from a big wind storm week, lots of small trees and bushes down. Just found out that I have fourteen (14) dead trees on our farm that have to come down, good thing I bought the switch assembly before i found out about the trees. LOL Regards, AJAK |
AJAK POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St. Clair, Michigan, USA |
posted 10-22-2017 04:23 PM
HVAC Update: I have decided to put the Prowler away for the Winter and I plan to replace or test the Blower Switch Control in the Spring. The weather is going to get bad and I wanted to get the car ready and put it in storage. I also ordered a Mode Door/Motor Actuator in case that needs to be replaced. Thanks for all the suggestions and interest in my problem. I will post my results in the Spring. Have a great Fall and Winter. Regards and Thanks, AJAK |
Dano POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Florida |
posted 10-30-2017 07:42 PM
UPDATE: Well, so much for the reset sequence working. I have not driven the Prowler since I posted about this issue beginning October, other than in and out of the workshop. Tonight I was moving it back in and decided to play with the new stereo and noticed that the air coming from the vents kept changing. I turned down the music and kept hearing a click every few seconds, and the air would change. UGH. Crap. It it still doing it. This makes the car undriveable (to me at least), especially in the summer. If I find anything else out I will let you know.
This message has been edited by Dano on 10-30-2017 at 07:53 PM |
robin POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St Thomas Ontario Canada |
posted 10-31-2017 03:43 PM
Mopar Part No.: 4727052AE MODULE-BODY CONTROLLER Discontinued Part prowler store has and exchange program 700 core and repair 1300 to 1400 hundred. It might be the door actuator you could try having it repaired This message has been edited by robin on 10-31-2017 at 03:44 PM |
Dano POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Florida |
posted 10-31-2017 10:05 PM
Thanks Robin. $1400? Really ? Wow...not gonna happen. I miss the old days when these were either vacuum or cable operated - those were so much easier and cheaper to fix. |
robin POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St Thomas Ontario Canada |
posted 11-03-2017 01:17 PM
AJAK HVAC Update: So Dano your problem sounds very similar to AJAK problem. that still leaves the issue of is it the actuator door malfunctioning or is there a problem with the BCM. |
Dano POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Florida |
posted 11-03-2017 01:53 PM
The BCM is currently out of the car (yes, I disconnected the battery first). I'm going to clean the contacts and put some dielectric grease on it. BUT...for what it is worth, I was searching through the internet last night looking for a BCM and saw a BCM for a Caravan and this triggered my memory. Many years ago we were purchasing a Dodge Caravan from a used car dealer. He jumped the van to get it started so we could test drive it. The dash was going crazy and the bell would chime randomly. We came back and told him and he said 'oh yeah, that is because it needs a new battery'. I was like 'BS DUDE'. He was positive about it so we took the van and got a new battery for it. Dangit - he was spot on. It cured everything. So...I noticed that the gauge in the Prowler keeps showing around 12.5 - 13 volts. I'm thinking hmmm...so I ordered a new battery today through a friend of mine that has a dealer account with Pep Boys and I will install the new battery. If for some reason the problem goes away I will never know if was cleaning/dielectric for the BCM or the new battery, but I will be one happy camper! I also purchased the replacement fuel filler assembly from the Prowler store so that I can finally put fuel in it reliably (hopefully). I will keep you posted as to all of the developments on my sweetheart! I can't wait to start driving her again (the Prowler either!!!). |
Dano POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Florida |
posted 11-09-2017 09:26 PM
Here is the update: Replaced the battery, removed the BCM and cleaned the contacts and coated with dielectric grease. It worked for about 5 minutes and started malfunctioning again, although this is nothing new as it has worked for short periods before. Removed the electrical connectors from the back of the switch panel and reinstalled them (hoping for a loose connection)...same thing. Then it quit moving the door altogether...it does NOTHING now. One thing I noticed...when it worked correctly the rear window defogger also worked correctly. When it stopped working, so did the rear window defogger. It just might be coincidence...and it might not. Interesting though. So...nothing new, nothing working. If and when I get it fixed I will let you know. Until then $H1T !!!! This message has been edited by Dano on 11-09-2017 at 09:33 PM |
robin POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St Thomas Ontario Canada |
posted 11-10-2017 11:16 AM
I think you may have blown a fuse this time checking the switch. check number 5 inside door.
This message has been edited by robin on 11-10-2017 at 11:22 AM |
Dano POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Florida |
posted 11-10-2017 10:28 PM
More info: I have discovered that the mode door actuator will move when I turn on the ignition. You can hear it moving and then stop. It then can be heard pulsing very lightly and that never stops. If you leave the key off for a few minutes, it will do this same sequence again. I unplugged the switch panel completely and the rear defogger continues to randomly turn on/off (I can hear the relay clicking), and the door model actuator does the sequence I mentioned above. I am wondering if the BCM is the culprit? Does anyone have a BCM that they would like to sell ? This message has been edited by Dano on 11-10-2017 at 10:29 PM |
robin POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St Thomas Ontario Canada |
posted 11-11-2017 10:02 AM
from spoons ... United Radio http://www.unitedradio.com/ |
robin POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St Thomas Ontario Canada |
posted 11-11-2017 11:35 AM
http://moduleexperts.com/modules/chrysler-bcm-repair/ |
Dano POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Florida |
posted 11-20-2017 09:25 AM
Filled in the online contact form at Module Experts. No one called back. A few days later I called and left a message. No one called back. Looking for a new replacement option, I found that Chrysler has a rebuild service for these for around $500, with a $750 core charge. Brandon at Dallas Dodge once again came through and turned me on to this service. Once I get it in I will let you all know how it worked!! |
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