posted 08-26-2002 10:26 PM                  

Thanks for all of the help in selecting the ceramic pads. Hopefully this helps return the favor with some hints and tips:

quote:

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Originally posted by GRROWL:
In researching this, I found several items from the manual that seem pretty important THAT I HAVE NEVER SEEN POSTED:

WHEN HANGING THE DISK BRAKE CALIPER FROM THE CONTROL ARM, DO NOT USE WIRE OR ANY SIMILAR MATERIAL THAT WOULD DAMAGE THE ANODIZED FINISH. A PLASTIC TIE STRAP IS A SUITABLE METHOD OF SUPPORTING THE DISK BRAKE CALIPER.

(2) Remove the protective paper from the noise suppression gasket on both the inner and outer brake shoes (if equipped).

(5) Lubricate both abutments on the caliper adapter with a liberal amount of Mopar(R) Brake Grease, or an equivalent.

(6) Support the disk brake caliper firmly by hanging it from the upper control arm using a plastic tie strap. This is required to prevent the weight of the caliper from being supported by the brake flex hose. Supporting the weight of the caliper by the flex hose can damage the flex hose.
-GRROWL

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I bought the CarQuest (made by Raybestos) GCD730, guaranteed for life, for $83.00.

The "super custom special wheeel cap remover" (half a clothespin) worked great.

Mark the valve stem location on the rotor hub with a magic marker and put the wheel back on the same way - tires seem to take a set and run bumpy for the next thousand or so miles if you don't.

The hubs were rusty, had to use penetrating oil and rubber mallet to get one wheel off. Suggest light coating of grease where the wheel center contacts the hub to make future removal easier and to reeduce rusting.

There was no paper on the back of the pads; there were no instructions in the package; there was a small packet of grease.

The grease was a NECESSITY - the slide surfaces were dry.

The old inner pads looked new; the outers weere less than half worn in 33,000 miles.

The 11" wire ties worked great for hanging the calipers.

A 6" disk sander worked well to scuff the rotors - the insides take some maneuvering, but you can get in under the caliper adapter with the caliper hanging.

A 4" C-clamp worked well to compress the caliper pistons.

Good luck. Not a difficult job, just take your time.

20 ft-lbs torque on the caliper bolts; 100 on the lug nuts.

-GRROWL

On to engine shimmers and decals next. See: "Be Careful Where You Buy Those Prowler Parts" for details at:
http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/007047.html

It also tells where you can get GENUINE CHRYSLER PARTS FOR 30% OFF, NO SHIPPING CHARGES, NO TAX.

posted 08-27-2002 11:53 AM                  

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Steve D.
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posted 08-27-2002 03:22 PM                  

You should either DO IT YOURSELF or STAND RIGHT THERE WHEN A SHOP DOES IT.

I've seen a shop go to the trouble to scuff the rotors when they were not machined, but I kind of doubt that they'll lube the slide surfaces since it's not obvious. And, they usually hang calipers with wire. Hopefully, a Chrysler dealer will use the published procedure.

BTW, when I took the flaps off, one nut was missing. The flaps obviously compress and take a set, thus the nuts loosen. General suggestion, try one of these two: Check the tightness periodically until they don't loosen anymore (final deformation). Also, if you don't want to deal with Loctite, a 1/4"-28 self-locking (nylock) acorn nut worked great.

-GRROWL

P.S. - Why don't you have the pads put on at your favorite Goodyear? Even if they don't sell ceramic pads, they will probably put on your pads and charge an hour labor (that's what my Goodyear shop did to "rotate my tires the hard way"). Sounds like he'll take the role of teacher and show you how a GOOD brake job is done.

posted 08-28-2002 03:17 PM                  

I've been thinking about this. I have to be careful to phrase this in a politically corrent manner. In fact, I've given this a GREAT DEAL of thought.

YOU SHOULD BE ASHAMED OF YOURSELF IF YOU DO NOT DO YOUR BRAKE PADS YOURSELF!!!

Here's my thinking:

1. You're mechanically inclined (as in "1001 uses for hot-melt glue on your Prowler).

2. You have the "soft touch" as in your miniature garage (you'll certainly be careful and not damage anything, unlike some shops).

3. You're professionally in a "hands-on" field.

4. AND MOST OF ALL, you have the support of the ENTIRE POA to support you.

Now NIKE!***

-GRROWL

posted 08-28-2002 10:18 PM                    

Brake fluid is a great paint remover if you get on any paint surface you will see paint coming off.

posted 08-29-2002 07:33 AM                  

Can I take the dunce hat off and come out of the corner now?

If I get brave and get sick of wiping brake dust, I may try it....

posted 08-31-2002 07:56 AM                  

That's a REAL interesting question.

No, it's black and feels like graphite or moly.

Do you still have the instructions that came with yours? I followed the directions in the service manual, which included greasing the slides and said nothing about anti-squeal stuff.

Well, I don't think I could have done any damage either way, the slides were dry when I started and this isn't any worse.

Thanks.

posted 08-31-2002 10:30 AM                  

No problems here. The operative number is the 730, which is the application. GCD is their "gold" top-of-the-line ceramic, made by Raybestos (and I'll bet IDENTICAL):
+++++++++++++++++++++++++
GCD Premium Plus Ceramic Brake Pads
Severe duty applications create the most demanding environment for any braking system. Temperatures can easily exceed 1000F. Our severe duty friction material resists thermal breakdown, and offers superior durability and performance at extreme temperatures. CARQUEST offers sever duty GMD-F coverage for municipal and commercial applications including: Police, Taxi, Fire Support, and School Buses.
Ultra Smooth Braking; Fade Resistant; Quick Recovery; Low Dusting; Long Life; Ultra Quiet; 100% Slotted; 100% Shimmed; 100% Chamfered
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
If I had it to do over again (I won't, these are guaranteed for life) I would go with the Autozone - PFC-591C made by Performance Friction Corporation. They were quality made, and I'm willing to bet that the friction material is made in the same factory as the Raybestos/CarQuest (it looks exactly the same, down to the copper-colored particles embedded in the material), and they're half the cost. The only problem was the packaging, which I assume they will resolve (the edges were chewed up from bouncing around, which also accounted for the dust - the CarQuest had the same dust, just less - again, it looks like the same friction material).

Also, I checked the papers with the CarQuest - the only paper was the warrantee, which required "complete brake service", which includes greasing the slides. I am convinced that the packet was, indeed, grease.

Thanks for the concern.