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Author Topic:   Another Overheating Thread
silverkat



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posted 01-09-2014 01:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for silverkat     send a private message to silverkat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by silverkat
Oops my bad thought that this was a thread about overeating.
robbieb


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posted 01-10-2014 09:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for robbieb     send a private message to robbieb   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robbieb
I was looking around to find a radiator cap and I found this site (ordered the cap from them)
Thought I'd pass it on to you guys for reference:

http://www.partsgeek.com/ymm/2002/chrysler/prowler.html

padroo



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posted 01-12-2014 08:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
If you have been adding water or antifreeze to the system there is a good chance you already have air trapped in the cooling system. Follow the top radiator hose back to the goose neck as others have suggested. There is a fitting that kind of looks like a big zerk grease fitting. Get some clear plastic tubing and force it over the end of the fitting, put the other end of the hose in a jug or bucket. Start the car and open the fitting up and you can see if it is air or water coming out. After a while you will see only water coming out then close the fitting to stop the flow of water, then fill your radiator to the line on the overflow resevoir. If you change your radiator cap you may still have the problem of trapped air, eliminate the air first before you change or do anything.

If you have the maintenance manual for your prowler this procedure is in there. It is common for newer cars to trap air in the cooling system. Some do and some don't but it is an important step that should not be overlooked.

catfish




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posted 01-12-2014 08:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
trapped air,will automatically burp itself thru the overflow tank when it cools down,no need to do anything else.just keep the tank at the full line when it cools down.

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This message has been edited by catfish on 01-12-2014 at 08:34 PM

ed monahan





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posted 01-13-2014 03:28 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
If you have an air bubble at the highest spot, it probably will not burp out on its own. Air is lighter than water and it gets trapped, hence the reason for the bleeder valve. The bleeder valve is on TOP for that reason. Other folks have taken a small straw (or a coffee stirring stick) and stuck it in under the edge of the hose. they loosened the clamp just enough to get the straw in place.
http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000142.html

This message has been edited by ed monahan on 01-13-2014 at 03:34 AM

padroo



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posted 01-13-2014 08:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
Makes sense to me.
catfish




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posted 01-15-2014 03:51 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
if you hve a air bubble at the highest point in the rad,guess where its going to go when it cools down,it will burp itself thru the overflow tank.the, valve is to take air out when filling the system.you put a clear hose on the valve and the hose end into a coolant bottle you will see when the air is gone from the system.

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ed monahan





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posted 01-15-2014 04:28 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
Why would you need the valve to let the air out when you are filling the system if you could just let it burp itself out? Air will go to the highest spot. period. They wouldn't have put the valve there if it wasn't needed. In the old days you could just take the radiator cap off the radiator itself. You can't do that now. The air is not going to go downhill. period.
padroo



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posted 01-15-2014 05:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
The point is to positively make sure there is no air in the system because you are troubleshooting a cooling problem. If there is no air in the system after bleeding you have eliminated one thing from the list then you move on to things like a bad radiator cap or a bad thermostat. It is just part of the process of elimination and the cheapest one to try.
catfish




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posted 01-16-2014 09:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
ed/if you dont know the correct process. figure it out.thats how its done when filling the cooling system.

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ed monahan





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posted 01-16-2014 10:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
I think I have it now. If the air bubbles are new, use the valve. If they are old, boil them downhill. Got it.
robbieb


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posted 01-21-2014 12:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for robbieb     send a private message to robbieb   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robbieb
Okay, so I got a new radiator cap and put it on.
That didn't work.

I have a question about the discussion of "bleeding" the cooling system:
My problem came out of nowhere. It's probably been a year since I've had to add any coolant to my system.
So does the "bleeding" the system really apply to my situation?

Also...it's not a quick overheating.

For instance, after I replaced the radiator cap I let the car idle for about 10 minutes. It barely registered 1/4 of the way up on the gauge.

So then I took it out driving. After about 5 minutes of driving it, it moved up to 3/4 on the gauge and I took it home and shut it down to avoid it overheating.

Does that ring any bells of the possible problem to anyone?

I ordered in a thermostat which will be here in a couple of days. Just wanted to see if this info would be helpful in my POA diagnosis.

ed monahan





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posted 01-21-2014 03:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
I realize you are in Vegas so you don't use your heater very often. If you have an air pocket your heater will work but blow cold air at times.
Did you read that old thread about squeezing the upper hose to see if it empty?
catfish




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posted 01-21-2014 06:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
ill say it again stop guessing and find out why its overheating.overheating can be caused by many things.changing parts is not the answer,since you have no idea what the problem is.

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onecatnodog
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posted 01-21-2014 06:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for onecatnodog     send a private message to onecatnodog   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by onecatnodog
I have the 5.0 Radiators and can make them avaiable if you need one.. They are made the old fashion way. Brass centers with a Steal frame.. Yes they are heavy, but they are heavey duty also.. It takes the Colo. company that I use about three weeks to make one from scratch and they are what I use in the 5.0 conversion builds.. Yes they are pricey at $1,200 each, but it is just one of the up grades that has to be done when a 5.0 is installed... onecatnodog

onecatnodog
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posted 01-21-2014 06:54 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for onecatnodog     send a private message to onecatnodog   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by onecatnodog
Thanks Mike for the help on posting images here on your great site... onecatnodog
beachcat



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posted 01-21-2014 07:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for beachcat     send a private message to beachcat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by beachcat
quote:
Originally posted by padroo:
The point is to positively make sure there is no air in the system because you are troubleshooting a cooling problem. If there is no air in the system after bleeding you have eliminated one thing from the list then you move on to things like a bad radiator cap or a bad thermostat. It is just part of the process of elimination and the cheapest one to try.

Another cheap one to try is to clean the fins of your rad. I don't know what conditions you drive in but take an air gun and blow out the rad.If they are plugged up, that could be your problem. I don't want to "guess" though but a clean rad is elementary.

catfish




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posted 01-21-2014 09:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
how would the fins get clogged when the condenser is in frt of them,not your problem.

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robbieb


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posted 01-21-2014 02:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for robbieb     send a private message to robbieb   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robbieb
catfish, you keep saying to "find out what the problem is first".

Brother, that's why I'm asking these questions.

As I said already...the car is not jumping right away to "Hot".
I let it idle for a bit and it looked just fine (about 1/4 on the gauge).
Then when I drove it for about 3 minutes it went up to 3/4 on the gauge so I parked it.

Do YOU have any insight into what the possible problem could be?

If not, then "yes" I'm gonna have to keep changing parts until I hit it. Obviously it's gonna either be the thermostat, the water pump, or the radiator needing to be replaced.

Since I'm not a psychic, I'm trying to troubleshoot it out the best I can.

As I also asked earlier...since I haven't changed or added antifreeze in months, would the whole "bleeding" or "burping" the coolant system even apply to what I'm experiencing?

I could understand if I had recently replaced or added a large amount of coolant...but it seems unlikely that it would just develop an air pocket for no reason.

Am I off base on that?

Come on brother, give me some of your wisdom.

robbieb


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posted 01-21-2014 02:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for robbieb     send a private message to robbieb   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robbieb
quote:
Originally posted by ed monahan:
I realize you are in Vegas so you don't use your heater very often. If you have an air pocket your heater will work but blow cold air at times.
Did you read that old thread about squeezing the upper hose to see if it empty?

Ed, when my Prowler first ran hot it caught me by surprise. So I got it home as fast as possible.

The only other time I've started it was when I put the new radiator cap on the other day.
I had it sitting in the garage (with the garage door open heh-heh) for a few minutes to see if it would overheat.

It did not. And at that point, the top hose did indeed feel "empty".

Then I drove it around for a few minutes and the gauge jumped up to 3/4 so I drove it home and shut it down immediately to avoid engine damage. So at that point I did not have the opportunity to check the top hose because I had shut her down.

This message has been edited by robbieb on 01-21-2014 at 02:27 PM

ed monahan





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posted 01-21-2014 03:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
It doesn't have to be running to check the hose if you do it within a short time. I would advise you to just barely loosen the bleeder valve when it is not hot. You should be able to readily tell if there is air by sound and sight. The air escaping will make some sound, either gurgling or whooshing. When the air quits and you have a solid stream of water, close the valve. You can put a hose on valve or just use a rag if you just BARELY open it. Don't try it when it is hot or you could get burned badly.
If you wind up replacing the thermostat you will have to bleed it again.
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posted 01-21-2014 04:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
maybe you should ck.the coolant level,if the hose feels empty it could be low.each time you shut the engine off and it cools down if its low on coolant it will suck whats in the tank back into the rad.when it cools off it burps itself,so you need to ck it to make sure theres enough coolant in reservoir,if not enough you will suck air into the system.

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robbieb


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posted 01-21-2014 07:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for robbieb     send a private message to robbieb   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robbieb
I'll give that a shot on checking the hose.

And no, the coolant level is just fine (at least according to the plastic tank level).

I'll also check and see if air is coming out just to eliminate that slight possibility.

This message has been edited by robbieb on 01-21-2014 at 07:34 PM

catfish




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posted 01-21-2014 09:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
donot drive with rad cap on first notch it will push coolant out when it gets hot.

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ed monahan





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posted 01-29-2014 08:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
Did you ever solve the problem?

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