posted 11-12-2004 10:10 PM                  

Brian, yes, they are still available. I have attached some pix of the Prowler PlateMount. It is made using laser cut stainless steel and 3M’s most reliable DualLock product which allows you remove and remount the PlateMount many times, if preferred. Cost is $69.95 prepaid to 48 states. Freight quoted for Canada, Alaska, or Hawaii.

Mail your personal check to:
Tectrum Sales and Associates
N25 W5280 Polk St.
Cedarburg, WI 53012

Paul

I am also including the pics that Paul sent to me showing several views on this bracket. I am passing on this great information to everyone just as GenoTex did for me. Just in case a cop gets on anyone else's case about not having a front plate.
Once again this great POA community has come through. I hate to keep repeating myself but you guys are the GREATEST!!!

posted 03-04-2005 08:03 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by ZRed99:
Can it be fastened with screws?

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quote:

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Originally posted by GRROWL on 3/10/2002:
This is my first post, so be kind.

GRROWL is a 2000 Yellow Prowler. I have benefitted from the online discussion boards from day one (June 2000) and figured it's time to give something back.

It always bothered me that they drilled into the bumper to mount the front plate, so at least there was some benefit when (out in left field at Office Depot, away from all other cars) some kid zipping around in a BMW snagged the bumper from behind and folded it into the grill. Those front bumpers really collapse when hit from behind.

Soooo, while I was waiting for the new bumper to arrive, I did a post-mortem on the old one. Being off of the car and upside down on the workbench, it sure seems that Plymouth designed the bumper to take a front license plate mount the way I will describe below.

Came back to edit and add a picture:

But first, a plug - and a thank you. As I said, I have benefited from this board in the past and ordered a new replacement bumper at a SUBSTANTIAL savings - THANKS, ALLEY CAT - those guys at John Youngblood Motors are phenomenal - and to get Mopar parts at such a discount is unheard of. Anyone interested should do a search for "cheap parts" posted by Alley Cat (by way of coincidence, my wife's pet cat is named Alley Cat).

Back to the subject:

Under the bumper, there is a recess approximately 1/2" deep and 1" wide with a row of pop rivets. The rivets attach 2 layers of plastic (front and back of bumper shell) to an aluminum box-beam. The location of the plate looked best (at least to me and to my wife - she's not particularly fond of GRROWL, and I'm not particularly fond of Alley Cat - her pet, not the POA member) centered under the directional signal. Coincidentally, two rivets are equally spaced from the centerline of the signal with matching holes on the top of the box beam, which is EASILY accessible by removing the directional signal (2 screws as if you were replacing the bulb).

This is a CHEAP, GOOD and NO COMPROMISE solution. I believe that the end result is PERFECT (providing, of course, that the law requires you to have a front plate to start with).

I dug the following out of my scrap box:

1 pc - 1" x 2" aluminum angle, 9" long
2 pc - 1/4" x 1-1/2" hex bolt
2 pc - 1/4" acorn lock nuts

This is really starting to sound much more complicated than it is. This is a 15-minute job requiring only an electric drill with a 1/4" bit and a portable belt sander or grinder. Here's the procedure:

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posted 03-04-2005 08:06 PM                  

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1. Drill out the 2 pop rivets below the directional signal (all drilling is with a 1/4" bit).

2. Remove the directional signal as if you were replacing the bulb, just let it hang. Drop in 2 bolts (1/4" x 1-1/2") down through the holes you will find behind the signal and out through the pop-rivet holes.

3. Find a piece of 9" long 1" x 2" angle in your choice of materials. Contour the 1" edge to match the front curve of the groove under the bumper (the 2" face will then be hanging down at the rear.

4. Center the bracket below the light opening, drill 2 holes to match the new bolts (should be 5" apart, but check), and bolt on.

5. Drill 2 holes, 1/4", 7" apart, and bolt on the license plate.

6. Re-install the signal.

Done!

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Additional (overly complicated) points:

A. No metal-working-specific tools were used in the production of this bracket. The portable belt sander worked well with an emory belt to contour the aluminum angle (which was 1/8" thick, by the way), round all of the corners, and ease the edges. I also used it to sand the faces to produce a "brushed" finish.

B. You could just as well use stainless steel angle (if you can find it); plastic angle; or bend sheet-metal of your choice. You could also attach with pop-rivets (skip steps 2 and 6) or screw into the pop-rivet holes with 5/16" self-tapping screws. Again, this is over-complicating the issue for such an easy (and good) fix.