posted 01-10-2018 01:22 PM                  

Make sure you catch all that comes out and replace that exact amount.
Seeing you have already had the fluid change if you just remove the pan you will not get all the fluid out some will remain in the torque converter.

Then make sure you put it threw the gears after pan goes back on..while sitting Stationary...check fluid.

posted 01-10-2018 01:34 PM                  

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Originally posted by Tomcal:
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Do not use if fluid is extremely hot. Warm to very warm is OK.

Spell correction on my last post should have been "ELIMINATE".

[/QUOTE]

Not difficult.
Critical Key factor is to replace exactly what you removed. Suck out old WARM fluid through dipstick tube (under rug in trunk) into empty gallon milk/beach jugs. Measure and write down quantity removed. Drop pan if you’re going to change filter. Clean pan and magnet in pan. No oil pan spillage by sucking fluid out first. Hint: Do not pry pan off, this will distort pan flange. Take a block of wood, place on corner or side of pan and tap wood with hammer to dislodge pan. Rear cross-member runs under pan, so some pan bolts maybe a small pain to remove.
Trans comes from factory with Special Mopar silicone sealant as pan gasket. Non-Mopar replacement filters come with a conventional gasket. DO NOT use silicone or RTV sealants, they react to ATF fluid. There's a Chrysler TSB explaining this. Special Mopar silicon is OK, if not using a conventional gasket. A reusable Mopar gasket is available, but it's pricey. If replacing filter, be sure filter O-ring is seated correctly. Coat O-ring with fresh ATF.
There will still be fluid in the Torque Converter and internal passages that you can not remove by sucking out/dropping pan, but you'll get a good amount out. If you have high mileage, I would remove/replace fluid again after 200 or so miles. No need to replace filter a second time.
FILL with EXACT AMOUNT of fresh Mopar ATF+4 you took out. This goes a long way to avoid under fill issues. Replacing ATF, I've always checked this way, When Cold with engine OFF, fluid level should be approximately between two holes in HOT indicator zone on dip stick, give or take a little. This is a starting point. Check yours before you start work to see if it's there.
You do not have to raise rear wheels of ground. Start engine, let run for a minute or two. Put trans in Auto-Stick mode and shift through forward gears plus reverse, pausing 5 seconds in each gear. Do it a few times. This will activate and fill/drain all clutch assembly’s/packs (gears). Now, check fluid level RUNNING. Add fluid to approximately "Add" mark, if needed. You Never want to be seriously below "Add" mark.
This trans design, 42LE, does not have dedicated 1-2-3-4 clutch packs per-say. Rather, an OverDrive clutch assembly, UnderDrive clutch assembly, with Holding Clutches. Combinations of these define what gear is selected. Using auto stick will activate all gear clutches packs/assembly's. Only Torque Convertor Lock-Up Clutch (inside converter and sometimes incorrectly called Over Drive or 4th/5th gear) will not activate. There is minimal fluid used in this mode. Drive a short distance above and below 45 mph a few times to activate/deactivate Lock-Up. Check fluid level again, Running.
Final ATF measurement is with engine Running and trans at Full Operating Temperature. Final Reading should be in HOT zone on dipstick.
Remember, trans is not heated/cooled by engine radiator. Separate air cooler in rear is used, therefore it may take some time for trans to reach full operating temperature depending on ambient temperature.
Add ATF+4 until you arrive at correct reading HOT. Over filling is almost as bad as under fill, causes foaming of ATF. Avoid highway speeds, long drives or heavy throttle until your sure ATF level is correct. Check and double check.
That's about it. As you've read in posts, correct ATF+4 level is critical.
For Techies, I'll try to post later, "Elements in Use". A chart showing clutches used for each gear.
Hope this helps.

posted 01-10-2018 06:58 PM                  

Tony when I take the pan off it will tell
whether it was buttered or changed sealer.
with your experience was factory sealer red or black?
I noticed the part about only factory sealer
being compatible with +4 fluid.
Thanks again all!!

posted 01-21-2018 06:57 PM                  

Pan gasket replacement was a success.
One stud on each brace turned and nuts wouldn't
come off.
Had to break out the diesel engine tools , 23 inch
ratchet to loosen the pan bolts. they were so tight
they popped like I broke em .3/8 drive wouldn't touch em.
So tight sealer squeezed out til gasket surfaces were metal to metal.
Pumping the fluid out before dropping pan is the cat's azz.
Not much shavings in the pan only on the magnet.