posted 08-05-2016 07:35 AM                  

Change tranny filter and refill the first time at 30,000.

Next time, at 60 to 70,000 miles,,,complete fluid flush and refill only >>>> good to go. Alternate filter and refill and complete flush/fill every other time.

Be absolutely positive your tranny is full of fluid before any long, high speed driving trips..........RPL and I found that out following Marc Scarbeary (RIP) in Colorado, in 2001. Marc had his tranny serviced before our trip to S.Dakota, and apparently wasn't filled & checked properly.......... Catastrophe struck, and Marc's tranny failed

posted 08-05-2016 09:28 PM                  

A couple of pan bolts are shrouded by rear cross member that runs under pan. After removing bolts, tap pan sideways using a block of wood and hammer to break seal. Remember to drain when fluid is hot, or at least warm. Clean magnet that's in pan also. Small amount of fine metal on it is normal.

When reinstalling gasket DO NOT use any type of silicone/RTV sealant. ATF+4 is very sensitive to uncured silicone, causing it to foam. It can take weeks for it to fully cure. There is a TSB on this from Chrysler. Chrysler does sell a reusable pan gasket good for about three uses, but it's pricey. Part #05011114AA

Per service manual, install filter making sure o-ring is in place. Add 4 quarts of ATF+4, then start engine and run for 1-2 minutes. Foot on brake, run through all gears using Auto-stick mode. Hold each gear for 5 seconds ending in Park. Check fluid level with engine running. If fluid is cold, this will be at the ADD mark. Fluid will expands as it heats up. Measuring fluid you took out is a good idea and indicator.

There is no need to raise rear wheels. Just run through gears using Auto-stick. You are filling torque convertor, value body and all clutch packs by doing so. If you raise it for working clearance, then member to step on brake before putting in park. DO NOT drive until fluid level is correct. At ADD mark as a minimum. Drive and Recheck level when ATF fluid is hot. Transmission is cooled separately from engine, so you need to drive a few miles to get tranny up to temperature. Speed up over 40 mph and down lower a few times to get convertor Lock-Up circuit activated.

Over filling is just as bad as under filling.

Just a Note, Chrysler recommends a complete ATF flush every 15 thousand miles under Schedule "B". 60 thousand under schedule "A". Somewhere in between is probably good.

posted 08-06-2016 03:47 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by ed monahan:
How do you change the filter using that method Lou?

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posted 08-06-2016 06:56 PM                  

Using an oil soluble grease, lubricate the pan and install the new gasket on the pan. NOTE: Do not use gasket adhesive, gasket cement or any similar product. The oil soluble grease will hold the gasket in place during the installation process.

I have used a block of wood and a hammer to remove different automotive parts from cars, don't remember a transmission pan but sometimes it works OK by shearing the old adhesives. The key is not to distort the pan and not gouge the mating surfaces to prevent leaks. I always start out using a little finesse and work my way up to using more force as needed to remove a stuck part.

posted 08-06-2016 07:59 PM                  

Here's the link to the site under the Prowler Girl Images if you can't get on...

posted 08-07-2016 05:15 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by Tomcal:

Using a hand held suction pump through the tranny dip stick tube removes most of the ATF and illuminates the mess when dropping pan.
Harbor Freight, Auto parts stores and Marine stores sell them.

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posted 08-08-2016 02:09 PM                  

Spell correction on my last post should have been "ELIMINATE".

posted 08-08-2016 09:21 PM                  

Here is one of the pry spots as all Prowler Pans are installed at the factory with Black Sealer..

Here is the other one.. onecatnodog

posted 08-08-2016 10:02 PM                  

Leave about 4 corner bolts in but loose to hold the pan in place when you do the pry the pan off from the factory glue..

Use the pry spots that I showed you earlier to help drain the fluid out or I guess you could use the pump to suck it out.. Do a product review on the pump from Harbor Freight, as it's not very good and I was afraid that I would make a mess and I didn't want it on the trunk carpet.. I have a very large pan and always put some card board down and then it's not a big deal... onecatnodog

posted 08-08-2016 10:14 PM                  

Make sure that the old "o" ring is removed and put the new one on the new filter and put a little trans fluid on it as it makes it super easy to push back on..

Something to think about as when I put the welded drain plugs in I put them in the left front corner when looking at the back of the car to the front.. If the car has a after market roll pan you will be able to still drain it with no mess... onecatnodog