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Author Topic:   Voltage Oscillating
spoons


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posted 10-30-2016 12:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
Maybe you guys can help me? I recently installed (20 miles ago) a new starter as it went bad and now I have a voltage oscillating issue. At idle the voltage oscillates about 1-2 volts causing headlights and dashboard to dim.
So far I have done the following in attempts to trouble shoot the issue:
1. Check the ground on the starter and battery.
2. Started the car and disconnect the stater.

Any suggestions on where to trouble shoot would greatly appreciated?


Thanks
Brian

Tony Goertz





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posted 10-30-2016 01:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tony Goertz     send a private message to Tony Goertz   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tony Goertz
Have seen a few bad wires on power connector on back of alternator.
DublinOH



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posted 10-30-2016 02:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for DublinOH     send a private message to DublinOH   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by DublinOH
Agree with Tony. I had an issue with the B+ terminal on the back of the alternator (broke off). I thought it was a bad alternator, but ended up being a broken wire. If it is loose or partly broken, you may see the conditions you describe.
phil2237


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posted 10-30-2016 04:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for phil2237     send a private message to phil2237   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by phil2237
Sounds like the rectifier in the alternator is going bad. If you need a new one, PepBoys has the best price at $ 171.00 with a lifetime warrenty
spoons


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posted 10-30-2016 09:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
I checked the alternator B+ output and its varying 1V. I did some research and apparently the its the ECM (Engine Control Module) that has the voltage regulator built into the computer. After 1987 Chrysler no longer has the voltage regulator on the Alternator; they placed it inside ECM. With that said there are 2 possible repairs:

1. Replace or refurbish the ECM which is expensive and may cause issues with ignition since our key has a chip in it.

2. Install a external voltage regulator conversion kit which will bypass the ECM. More info https://alternatorparts.com/external-voltage-regulator-high-output-alternator-kit.html

I think I am leaning toward option #2 since I heard people replacing ECM's several times for voltage issues; not to mention it's cheaper.

This message has been edited by spoons on 10-30-2016 at 09:50 PM

robin


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posted 10-31-2016 02:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for robin     send a private message to robin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robin
I would try a new alternator before switching anything.
Like you said a ECM for a 99 is very expensive.
Plus is the starter the right one and is it hooked up right.

Just some things to check.....keep us informed please spoons

quincy



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posted 10-31-2016 03:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for quincy     send a private message to quincy   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by quincy
Brian,
How old is your battery? Over 8 years old.....may be sulfurized thus creating charging issues.
mslc10



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posted 11-02-2016 08:11 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mslc10     send a private message to mslc10   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by mslc10
this might be a great way of getting the voltage spikes out of the ecm.....please let us know which one you try.

I also notice some lights dimming as the fans cycle on and off ...to be expected but if the ECM is susceptible to voltage changes ,then this may help.

1buddyc



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posted 11-02-2016 01:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 1buddyc     send a private message to 1buddyc   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by 1buddyc
quote:
Originally posted by spoons:
I checked the alternator B+ output and its varying 1V. I did some research and apparently the its the ECM (Engine Control Module) that has the voltage regulator built into the computer. After 1987 Chrysler no longer has the voltage regulator on the Alternator; they placed it inside ECM. With that said there are 2 possible repairs:

1. Replace or refurbish the ECM which is expensive and may cause issues with ignition since our key has a chip in it.

2. Install a external voltage regulator conversion kit which will bypass the ECM. More info https://alternatorparts.com/external-voltage-regulator-high-output-alternator-kit.html

I think I am leaning toward option #2 since I heard people replacing ECM's several times for voltage issues; not to mention it's cheaper.


That is a GREAT alternative! If you decide to go this route Spoons, please be sure and post the part number of the Kit you use.

spoons


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posted 11-09-2016 04:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
I decided to pull the alternator and have it tested before I invest in an external voltage regulator or messing with the PCM. I had alternator tested and it's bad; so this weekend I will install it and see if it fixes my issue. I will post and update within a week.
spoons


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posted 11-10-2016 07:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
I replaced the alternator last night with a re-manufactured one and now everything is working great; I'm back on the road again. The old alternator tested bad.

A few things to mention for future readers to help trouble shoot the issue:

1. My battery voltage while the car was running was not 14V which means the alternator was not properly charging the battery.

2. My battery was less than 12V (measured 10V) after the car was running because it was pulling the power from the battery. I put the battery on a trickle charger to bring it back to 12V and it remained the 12V until I ran the car with the bad alternator.

3. My stereo/radio was acting funning and shutting off/on, switching from tape to CD to FM like it was possessed for the past few months. I though it was the head unit was going bad or bad ground. Turns out it was the alternator because the head unit is working fine again.

FYI - It was tight, but I could remove the alternator from driver side by just removing the side panel and removing the mount screws from fuse box.

quincy



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posted 11-10-2016 07:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for quincy     send a private message to quincy   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by quincy
Great news! Glad your back on the road again. How many miles do you have on your Prowler? Curious as to why the alternator may have failed.
spoons


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posted 11-11-2016 06:16 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
My Prowler is a 1997 with 45k miles. Most likely it failed due to age
phil2237


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posted 11-11-2016 12:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for phil2237     send a private message to phil2237   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by phil2237
The alternator for the Prowler has a voltage regulator built in. I have never heard of the computer controlling the voltage or charging. Hope you bought the Pep Boys version as it come with the new clutch and Life time warranty. All the venders charge more just for the clutch itself without the alternator.
What key for the Prowler has a chip in it ?????
spoons


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posted 01-20-2017 11:37 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
I'm back.... with an issue again.

In November I replaced the starter, then alternator was bad. Now the car died while driving and will not start. The starter engine solenoid won't even click. The light in the cabin and radio work, but nothing else. The one year old Battery was leaking acid from the top and I had the battery checked and it's check out and will hold a charge. The OBD II reader will not connect to the engine.

Over the weekend I plan on checking the auto shutdown relay (ASR); but what I think the real issue is the PCM is bad and most likely it's been my issue all along since the voltage regulator issues.

What I theorize is after I replaced the alternator (which was tested and was deemed bad) it has been over charging my battery (above idle) and cooked the battery which is why it leaked. While over charging the system it eventually took out the PCM hence shutting down the engine.

phil2237


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posted 01-20-2017 11:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for phil2237     send a private message to phil2237   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by phil2237
The computer has nothing to do with the engine cranking over, you might want to recheck your starter. If the starter won't crank it could be a bad wire or solenoid at the starter. Check the battery cable where it connects to the starter to make sure it is giving 12 volts to the starter solenoid. The lights in the car are fed from the small wire also attached to the starter. If the cable has failed to give 12 volts to the starter, it will also cut power to the ignition and cause the engine to die out. I would not worry about the computer giving you a problem as it has nothing to do with cranking the car over

This message has been edited by phil2237 on 01-20-2017 at 11:55 AM

jimsutton



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posted 01-20-2017 12:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jimsutton     send a private message to jimsutton   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by jimsutton
Good news Brian I just sow this on line I had a problem like that and found out that the alt . has a clutch in it and replaced it problem solved ..
spoons


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posted 01-20-2017 12:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons

With the key in the ignition position (2 position) the engine will not start or even activate the starter, the Heater/AC will not turn on. The only thing that happens is "check engine soon" light turns on a pings. OBD II cannot find a signal.

Ill check the starter wires this weekend.

Dfsc1
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posted 01-20-2017 03:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dfsc1     send a private message to Dfsc1   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Dfsc1
My two cents is the battery sounds like it is toasted/shorted. Try a new battery or a loaner from another car as the first step. Check the grounding next.

This message has been edited by Dfsc1 on 01-20-2017 at 04:00 PM

mslc10



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posted 01-20-2017 09:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mslc10     send a private message to mslc10   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by mslc10
Just ran across this : http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=192044086228
Landscape Doctor



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posted 01-20-2017 09:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Landscape Doctor     send a private message to Landscape Doctor   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Landscape Doctor
quote:
Originally posted by mslc10:
Just ran across this : http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=192044086228

Good find,,, looks like a very reputable EBay vendor.

phil2237


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posted 01-21-2017 12:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for phil2237     send a private message to phil2237   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by phil2237
Checking the battery like posted above is a good place to start. My best bet is battery or cable going to solenoid or bad solenoid on the starter. Just remember that there is a small wire that should be at the solenoid to power the dash could also be just a loose cable at the starter or battery. All the power that the Prowler gets all comes from the starter solenoid where the positive cable hooks up. I hope this helps you out. If you need my cell number , just PM me and I can help you as you test different items.
spoons


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posted 01-22-2017 01:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
I checked the + terminal of the starter and measured 12.8 volts.

I then checked the the ASD (Auto shut down) relay in the engine bay fuse box that is behind the driver side engine bay panel/fendor. The ASD relay checked out to be ok, so then I checked the ASD fuse (20 amp) and it was blown. I replaced the fuse and the engine started right up.

I measured the voltage going to the battery with the engine idle and it measures 14.06 and at 4,000 rpm it measured 14.2 which is acceptable ranges. I'm not sure what's caused the battery to cook (over charge) and blow the ASD fuse.

ed monahan





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posted 01-22-2017 02:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
Thanks for posting the solution.
padroo



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posted 01-22-2017 04:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
quote:
Originally posted by spoons:
I checked the + terminal of the starter and measured 12.8 volts.

I then checked the the ASD (Auto shut down) relay in the engine bay fuse box that is behind the driver side engine bay panel/fendor. The ASD relay checked out to be ok, so then I checked the ASD fuse (20 amp) and it was blown. I replaced the fuse and the engine started right up.

I measured the voltage going to the battery with the engine idle and it measures 14.06 and at 4,000 rpm it measured 14.2 which is acceptable ranges. I'm not sure what's caused the battery to cook (over charge) and blow the ASD fuse.


Did you disconnect the battery when you changed the starter?


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