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  brake pedal not feeling right. (Page 2)

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Author Topic:   brake pedal not feeling right.
padroo



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posted 07-28-2015 08:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
quote:
Originally posted by Gort:
Thanks I'll try that


The check valve could be bad also, it can be changed.


If all else fails check out page 5-14 in the 1999 manual for a troubleshooting guide.

This message has been edited by padroo on 07-28-2015 at 08:05 PM

quincy



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posted 07-28-2015 08:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for quincy     send a private message to quincy   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by quincy
Failing booster test: With engine running & vehicle in park. Apply brake with firm push, not a panic push. If the pedal drifts down toward the floor, and you can't put your other foot under the pedal (shoes off for this test please) the diaphragm may have been compromised and is leaking vacuum. Google 'brake boosters' for an explanation on how a booster works. A very cleaver and elegant device it is......good luck. Then again, as your pads wear the travel of your pedal will increase, but you already stated that the pads show little to no wear...
mslc10



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posted 07-28-2015 08:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mslc10     send a private message to mslc10   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by mslc10
quote:
Originally posted by padroo:
An internal leak in the master cylinder would give you an idiot light.

Check the vacuum line running from the intake manifold and the check valve on the booster.



An internal leak around the piston Would drop your pressure to the caliper piston.

How does this trigger an idiot light if there is not a fluid leak where it actually looses fluid?


beachcat



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posted 07-28-2015 09:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for beachcat     send a private message to beachcat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by beachcat
One thing about a leaking booster is it usually goes downhill fast. You may have almost zero brakes all of a sudden. It's usually a fairly low cost repair.
padroo



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posted 07-29-2015 09:31 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
quote:
Originally posted by mslc10:

An internal leak around the piston Would drop your pressure to the caliper piston.

How does this trigger an idiot light if there is not a fluid leak where it actually looses fluid?



It doesn't matter if is an external or internal leak it is still a differential in pressure will give you a light.

mslc10



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posted 07-29-2015 09:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mslc10     send a private message to mslc10   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by mslc10
quote:
Originally posted by padroo:
It doesn't matter if is an external or internal leak it is still a differential in pressure will give you a light.


Sounds pretty sophisticated! http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Ford-Full-Size-Cars-1968-1988-Repair-Guide/BRAKE-OPERATING-SYSTEM/Pressure-Differential-Warning-Valve/_/P-0900c152800540e0#close
I have had a master cylinder leak fluid into the cab of a 1971 ford truck without a brake light come on.also a 2010 tacoma had the same pedal issue as described ( no light) and master cylinder replacement fixed problem . So this is just anecdotal

This message has been edited by mslc10 on 07-29-2015 at 09:20 PM

padroo



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posted 07-29-2015 09:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
Ok, could be I am wrong but it will be interesting to see how Gort makes out. Lots of luck Gort.
mslc10



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posted 07-30-2015 04:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mslc10     send a private message to mslc10   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by mslc10
quote:
Originally posted by padroo:
Ok, could be I am wrong but it will be interesting to see how Gort makes out. Lots of luck Gort.

padroo ,just wanted you to know im not arguing with you, just my 2cents!

Gort
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posted 07-30-2015 04:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Gort     send a private message to Gort   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Gort
Sorry I haven't had time to try you guys suggestions ,I'm in court in a law suit about water damage to some property I own. I will get back with photos.

I hate it when I'm paying $200 an hour for an attorney and the courtroom conversation gets side tracked to UT football. It cost me $400 to get educated on football.CRAZY

Hopefully I'll win and the other guy will have to pick up all the costs.

padroo



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posted 07-30-2015 06:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
quote:
Originally posted by mslc10:
padroo ,just wanted you to know im not arguing with you, just my 2cents!


No Problem, it's just a discussion.

StingRay




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posted 07-30-2015 08:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for StingRay     send a private message to StingRay   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by StingRay
quote:
Originally posted by beachcat:
One thing about a leaking booster is it usually goes downhill fast.

How ironic .... so does a car with no brakes!

quincy



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posted 08-06-2015 11:34 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for quincy     send a private message to quincy   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by quincy
What's the verdict on the braking issues?
Gort
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posted 08-20-2015 08:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Gort     send a private message to Gort   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Gort
Had my friend who owns a Chevy dealership drain the fluid and put the correct MOPAR fluid back in and now everything is back to normal. The fluid looked a little dirty. It doesn't feel any different as far as braking but the pedal is more firm.
beachcat



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posted 08-20-2015 08:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for beachcat     send a private message to beachcat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by beachcat
quote:
Originally posted by Gort:
Had my friend who owns a Chevy dealership drain the fluid and put the correct MOPAR fluid back in and now everything is back to normal. The fluid looked a little dirty. It doesn't feel any different as far as braking but the pedal is more firm.

quote:
Originally posted by beachcat:
Is the fluid a dark colour? Do you know if the system has been flushed? If not it should be changed because brake fluid will suck in moisture from the air over time.

Anytime

robin


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posted 08-20-2015 09:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for robin     send a private message to robin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robin
Thanks for the update Gort.....
Glad you figured that out......
Robin
silverkat



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posted 08-21-2015 12:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for silverkat     send a private message to silverkat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by silverkat
Glad that your friend from the Chevy Dealer was able to help you.
baker39
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posted 08-21-2015 04:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for baker39     send a private message to baker39   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by baker39
Just had the same problem with my 99,had the brake system flushed, all normal now, cost under $100.
Gort
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posted 08-21-2015 07:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Gort     send a private message to Gort   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Gort
quote:
Originally posted by baker39:
Just had the same problem with my 99,had the brake system flushed, all normal now, cost under $100.

The fluid didn't look that bad until they started draining it. It got darker and darker.


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