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Author Topic:   Rear Stabilizer Bar Bushings
catfish




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posted 07-13-2009 07:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
its usually the rubber part of the bushing,thats exposed to the weather,that cracks,not usually the inside.if the inside of bushing,wears or rots and falls apart,the alignment would be off,causing irreglar tire wear.besides a visual inspection,jack up rear,and with trans in neutral,grasp tire at top and pull/push in and out,if worn you will see and feel movement at the link bushing.to replace bushing,you will have to buy a new link,at this time.i believe somebody in calif,is working on a urethane kit to replace those.somebody from ca.will hopefully chime in on this.if your car is a 99,fact replace parts,about 100.00 apiece,x 4--if 2000 and up,over 500.00 a piece x 4.good luck.i lube mine about twice a year to keep from having problems.

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PROWLAW

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posted 07-14-2009 04:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for PROWLAW     send a private message to PROWLAW   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by PROWLAW
Here are some pictures of my suspension components. As you can see, most of them look crooked. I'd appreciate any comments/opinions. thanks!








PROWLAW

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posted 07-14-2009 04:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for PROWLAW     send a private message to PROWLAW   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by PROWLAW
3 more pics:




catfish




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posted 07-14-2009 04:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
worn out to say the least,lucky yours is a 99.you have 2 options,replace w/new mopar,or try and find some a/m urethane that might work.energy suspension,or prothane bushings.these are mmetric,if you use urethane,you will most likely buy larger and cut down.yours are completly shot,no repairing those.pm george johnson,and talk to him also.curious.how many miles on your car.

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PROWLAW

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posted 07-14-2009 04:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for PROWLAW     send a private message to PROWLAW   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by PROWLAW
Mine is a 2002 with a little over 15K miles.

Roads down here in miami are absolutely terrible..i'm sure that is a huge part of it....

Do I really HAVE to replace them?

George Johnson




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posted 07-14-2009 05:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for George Johnson     send a private message to George Johnson   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by George Johnson
Jan,
What you are looking at in PROWLAW's pics is the front stabilizer links and the rear lateral links. The stabilizer links are going to have to be replaced with either OE or spoons permanent fix.
As for the rear lateral links, they are probably like 90% of the Prowlers out there - the rubber boot has deteriorated and if you take them loose the rubber will just fall off. The rubber boots function is to eliminate dust and dirt getting into the swivel bearing. A lot of people believe that to be a bushing and it isn't. JMHO
catfish




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posted 07-14-2009 07:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
youre right george,guess i didnt look close enough at photos.id replace the frts,they are shot.rrs dont look to bad,id,loosen nut and at least,take the twist out of them to keep the wear at a minimum.

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phil2237


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posted 07-14-2009 08:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for phil2237     send a private message to phil2237   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by phil2237
My first set went out yesterday for install, will keep you posted as how it holds up. I finally found a vender who carries the bearing , If you notice any grease coming out of them, that means water can get to that bearing, try to keep that area clean until replacement.....
The bushings are the easy part, it's the bearing that was a nightmare to find.

This message has been edited by phil2237 on 07-14-2009 at 08:02 PM

catfish




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posted 07-14-2009 08:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
phil,youre first set of what went out,frt sway bar links or
rear trailing links.where did you find the bearing.bushing.any photos.thanks.

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phil2237


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posted 07-14-2009 08:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for phil2237     send a private message to phil2237   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by phil2237
Jan, I am doing the rears, Jim Stallings I believe is doing the fronts. Are the 97s the same as the 99s and newer ?
You cannot just replace the bushings on the rear, as the bearing actually gets egg shaped once the bushings fail.
You have to replace both the bearing and bushing.
The bearings are an odd size , let alone metric,
Jan , I haven't taken any pictures , but will update once they get installed......
On the front bushings, are they just failing in certain areas, as all the California cars I have seen, there seems to be NO issue with the fronts, just the rear.

This message has been edited by phil2237 on 07-14-2009 at 08:43 PM

catfish




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posted 07-14-2009 08:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
phil,97s and 99s are the same,2000 and up are different.in 2000,they changed to a different rr link,to soften up the ride.the 2000 and up has a wider end on the link,i believe larry lord is knowledgeable about the difference.theres also a hugh parts price diff.between the 99 and 00 and up,like 400.00 each.

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phil2237


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posted 07-15-2009 11:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for phil2237     send a private message to phil2237   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by phil2237
For those owners, that the link is still straight, I would advise replacing the bushings, as once the rubber starts to fail, it puts alot of uneven pressure on the bolt and bushings. These cars are now 10 years old, The rubber softens over time and loses its support to keep the link straight, once it becomes worn out , it starts to hammer the bearing. Seems from the sample arms I have,the bearing is of poor quality and does not withstand much abuse. The new bearing is an industrial bearing that will take the abuse , and constant hammering from road use.
spoons


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posted 07-17-2009 02:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
I am in the process of finding a permanent solution for these rear lat links, like I did with the front vertical stabilizer links. I am in the process of designing ones for my 1997 and I am going to get a set from a 2001 model sometime later this month from Tom Mills. Tom Mills lives near me in Florida and had the rear links replaced on his 2001 last month under warranty and he asked me if I would like the old ones so I could derive an alternate-engineering solution. Tom is on Vacation until 7/22; after that I will work on an alternative design for these links for 1997 & 1999 model and the 2000+ models. I am leaning towards using stainless steel for all components.

I will keep you posted.

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Brian K. Richardson
West Palm Beach, FL
http://www.brianrichardson.net

1997 Purple W/ 1997 Mopar Trailer
ProwlerPRO Gears ~ TGF Metalcrafters Rear Spoiler ~ Mopar Borla Prowler Exhaust ~ Removed Front Bumpers (Tom Mill's Trun signal relo) ~ Splash Guards(Front + Back) ~ Ceramic brake pads (front) ~ "Cracked Ice" shimmers on rear bumpers ~ Magic Touch Design 2.2 Air Intake ~ Purple Painted Shift Bezel ~ Trailer Leather Bra ~ Complete, Speaker Upgrade ~ Front Suspension Brace ~ 2001 Prowler Ignition Key ~ Louvered Transmission Cover

Prowler X

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posted 07-20-2009 09:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Prowler X     send a private message to Prowler X   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Prowler X
Just wondering how everyone is getting away with "worn parts" being replaced with the warranty, which I do have, both.

Thanks:

W.

catfish




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posted 07-20-2009 09:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
most of these are out of warranty.if you still have one,id take it in and have them checked.

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Prowler X

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posted 07-21-2009 03:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Prowler X     send a private message to Prowler X   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Prowler X
I got an extended warranty when I bought my 99' three years ago, so I'm set for a few years, but your suggestion is good, given the Gov. is covering warranties.

This message has been edited by Prowler X on 07-21-2009 at 03:11 PM

spoons


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posted 07-29-2009 08:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
Is any one interested in buying a completely re-engineering rear lat links? Or most people going to have there rear lat links refurbished by Phil (which is perfectly okay; I don't want to step on his toes).

I just want to see if there is a demand for something like this:

feedback welcomed

DFOTOPRO


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posted 07-29-2009 09:09 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for DFOTOPRO     send a private message to DFOTOPRO   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by DFOTOPRO
it is always good to have more than one option to any problem...Please keep working on yours

dj

dbudner

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posted 07-29-2009 09:27 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for dbudner     send a private message to dbudner   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by dbudner
Brian, Installing yours would no doubt cost me untold sums in chrome suspension work
George Johnson




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posted 07-29-2009 09:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for George Johnson     send a private message to George Johnson   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by George Johnson
Brian,
I believe with your design utilizing the Heim Joint will eliminate the deteriorating problem with the rubber boots.
I'm in...Thanks!
spoons


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posted 07-29-2009 10:02 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
I'd like to make them out of stainless steel so they would look good, but cost might be an issue? Lower cost option maybe Chrome Moly Steel or clear zinc.
DFOTOPRO


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posted 07-29-2009 11:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for DFOTOPRO     send a private message to DFOTOPRO   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by DFOTOPRO
how much of a difference ???...most of us would pay a little more for a better look
phil2237


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posted 07-29-2009 12:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for phil2237     send a private message to phil2237   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by phil2237
Brian, That arm will cause you alot of lawsuits as this arm is a BREAKAWAY arm on side impacts to protect the frame. You put that solid piece on there and bump a curb, you can bend the frame.

I have my arms on 2 Prowlers now, one is a daily driver, Both now have over 500 miles on them. Holding very well.

Larry Lord


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posted 07-29-2009 01:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Larry Lord     send a private message to Larry Lord   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Larry Lord
We've used heim joints for years in racing and I'm very familiar with them.

The problem with heims for street use, while they look nice, is that they allow road vibrations and harmonics to be transmitted to the chassis.
This is the fundamental reason for using links with rubber bushings. It isolates the chassis from unwanted or irritating vibrations and noises much like the rubber mounts keep your exhaust transmitting vibrations to your chassis.

I would never use a solid heim instead of a rubber bushing on a street car unless it was a pure perfomance car.

This message has been edited by Larry Lord on 07-29-2009 at 01:50 PM

spoons


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posted 07-29-2009 02:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for spoons     send a private message to spoons   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by spoons
Larry,

Correct me if I am wrong... but the OEM links have solid joints on the inside with grease packing and a rubber boot on the outside? Isn't that why when the rubber fails they still techniqually work? The rubber boot is there to keep out dirt and water?

Here are some pics of the front vertical stabilizer links with the same type of joint... you can see that it is a rod end inside.



In the mean time I will try to get a good photo of the rear link's bearing removed from the body.


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