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Author Topic:   why ball joint failure
Catwatching


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posted 08-28-2016 08:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Catwatching     send a private message to Catwatching   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Catwatching
Has anyone checked out the replacement dust boots, looks like they have a ton of sizes:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-dust-boots.asp

Plus on the same page is a video on the right that shows how to measure and purchase the correct size boot.

------------------

This message has been edited by Catwatching on 08-28-2016 at 08:41 PM

mslc10



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posted 08-28-2016 09:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mslc10     send a private message to mslc10   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by mslc10
quote:
Originally posted by padroo:
Upper and lower ball joint locations on front suspension, there are ball joints on the rear also but you never hear anyone really complaining about them. I suppose it is because they don't turn with the rear wheels like the front does in a turn.




Padroo.....I think cat a tonic maybe on to something here!!!

This message has been edited by mslc10 on 08-28-2016 at 09:15 PM

padroo



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posted 08-28-2016 10:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
I have no reason yet to be paranoid about my ball joints.

I have replaced ball joints but never on any of my cars.

You know what they say, "Never say Never".

quincy



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posted 08-31-2016 03:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for quincy     send a private message to quincy   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by quincy
My good friend in Chicago has a L-H Sedan (Last Hope) and his front lower ball joint boots tore as well. He placed black electrical tape around the torn boot in desperation until he R&R'ed the ball joints. The replacement joints had zerk fittings. I believe its the turning of the tires as described above,torquing the rubber until it fatigues. My rear boots and joints are fine, as are my fronts. JIC I applied dry lubricant from a spray can to the rubber on the lower front joints. Easy access...the discussion continues.

quote:
Originally posted by mslc10:
Thanks Quincy! I still think that the lack of fenders allows uv rays to degrade the boot also. Other vehicles joints are shrouded by fenders......just an additional thought.

In response to the nylon washer....use two! Friction coefficient between two nylon entities is .15. Or Teflon .....04!

So who has a ball joint that can be measured for hole diameter, can calculate the thickness needed and give these guys a call?........


http://www.phoenixspecialty.com/products/washers/ptfe-washers

They can make us whatever we need! Is there a recess in the bottom of the knuckle or is it just flat where the boot contacts it?
Can someone post a picture of the bottom of the knuckle?
Friction table if your interested: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/friction-coefficients-d_778.html


CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 08-31-2016 04:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
Regarding the rear ball joints. The rear joints and I could be wrong about this, looks like our front top joints except they're upside down. It has black cap on it as well so it's probably grease-able. They do not live in an environment that has a twisting motion applied to them.

The front boot(s) in question are giving way because the bottom of the knuckle is pressed down on the top of the boot(s) along with the tension that the small upper retaining boot ring has on the BJ stem. The bottom of the knuckle is smooth and does not have a recessed area that the boot(s) fit into.

CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 09-01-2016 04:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
Cat-watching........that boot tutorial was probably right where we need to be as far as a replacement boot that might survive on our cars. I wish I had seen it before I changed mine. I need to take a few measurements per their instructions and see what they have that might work for us.
Largent

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posted 09-06-2016 07:56 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Largent     send a private message to Largent   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Largent
Cat A Tonic -
Now that you've seen the tutorial and think this company may have a solution, just checking in to see if you're any closer to determining whether a potential replacement boot had been identified...
padroo



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posted 09-06-2016 08:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
Here is a link from an earlier post by Andria.
http://www.suspension.com/bjb.htm

This message has been edited by padroo on 09-06-2016 at 08:35 AM

CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 09-07-2016 04:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
After looking at how BJs are made and how they are pressed into the lower control arms, I don't believe that the replacement boots are going to work.

The factory boot itself(at the bottom) is held in place with a spiral lock style ring. The boot once in place on the ball joint, is just slightly smaller in circumference than the bottom portion of the actual metal housing that presses into place within the control arm.

At this time the only possible fix MIGHT BE to remove or alter the tension of the upper boot spring steel ring that is installed on the upper portion of the boot. There by reducing the tension or grip that the boot has on the ball joint stem.

This boot failure is a problem. It's a factory engineering defect that we are going to have to solve. We aren't going to get help from Chrysler on this. I wish I had tried some of my own suggestions as I had just gotten through replacing mine. Not to sound like Doctor Doom but I have no confidence that they will not fail again at some time.

syswayne1939

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posted 09-09-2016 08:18 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for syswayne1939     send a private message to syswayne1939   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by syswayne1939
quote:
Originally posted by Largent:
Thanks for the location info.
I am about to begin taking my front end apart to have components chromed.
My Prowler has about 6500 miles and had the recall "repair" done at 2000 miles.
.
Any advice on what to look for or recommended replacements while it's apart?
.
Thanks again - this site is awesome!


I just wonder how much it would cost to have both sides of my Prowler ball joints replaced. I bet many dollars. Anyone ever had to pay to have them all replaced/ Thanks
syswayne1939

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posted 09-09-2016 03:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for syswayne1939     send a private message to syswayne1939   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by syswayne1939
quote:
Originally posted by pgpg42:
Thank you for your observations. The lower ball joint has a tough job. I have long suspected that the stiff front suspension has contributed to it's short life. Has anyone ever moved the coilovers outboard in place of the solid black bar? Or, replaced the front coilovers with something less stiff?

Are new boots hard to find? WHere should I try. Thanks

ProwlerCar

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posted 09-18-2016 10:56 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for ProwlerCar     send a private message to ProwlerCar   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ProwlerCar
Chip Foose might be having the same issue with his Hemisfear.


Maybe he found a better way?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=Jq3gwdeRVlA&NR=1

mslc10



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posted 09-21-2016 08:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mslc10     send a private message to mslc10   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by mslc10
So what about machining some material off the boss or area that contacts the boot? Maybe removing 1/8 " would give enough clearance so the knuckle won't touch the top of the boot.

Thoughts?

CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 09-23-2016 12:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
Maybe.......but taking off the knuckles and sending them to a shop that could possibly make some kind of machining modification would be a fairly monumental task for everyone.

The knuckles themselves are flat across the bottom. And cutting material off them might compromise their strength.

It's the boots. The boots as the ball joints are drawn up into the knuckle are collapsed and for lack of a better description,squished. The boots are ballooned once the ball joint stem is fully torqued in place. While the boots are new they have a certain amount of resilience and can resist the twisting that leads to the eventual tearing.

To me a boot designed with less boot material would probably be a better starting point (and maybe the fix). That way they wouldn't be so strained once in place and would be better off resisting twisting especially after a significant amount of road time has gone by.

padroo



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posted 09-24-2016 11:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
quote:
Originally posted by CAT-A-TONIC:
Maybe.......but taking off the knuckles and sending them to a shop that could possibly make some kind of machining modification would be a fairly monumental task for everyone.

The knuckles themselves are flat across the bottom. And cutting material off them might compromise their strength.

It's the boots. The boots as the ball joints are drawn up into the knuckle are collapsed and for lack of a better description,squished. The boots are ballooned once the ball joint stem is fully torqued in place. While the boots are new they have a certain amount of resilience and can resist the twisting that leads to the eventual tearing.

To me a boot designed with less boot material would probably be a better starting point (and maybe the fix). That way they wouldn't be so strained once in place and would be better off resisting twisting especially after a significant amount of road time has gone by.


I see your point, another option would be to increase the length of the ball joint moving the tapered part up a little higher, maybe just a 1/4 inch would relieve some of the twisting motion on the rubber boot. A shorter rubber boot would be the only thing an individual could come up with.

padroo



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posted 09-24-2016 11:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
Here you can order replacement boots.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-dust-boots.asp


Here is this companies YouTube video showing how to measure your ball joint and it doesn't look too complicated.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxDWFntAdeA

If someone has a ball joint in their hand would you measure it like in the video and post the part number from this website so it is documented what we need for our Prowlers. The material these are made of should be superior to what came on our Prowlers. Thank you in advance.

This message has been edited by padroo on 09-24-2016 at 11:31 AM

CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 09-24-2016 03:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
I have tried that but no go. The boots aren't held on the bjs the same way. U can't just pop off the old and throw on a new one. The boots are held in place with a spiral lock wire and must be the exact size for clearance so they can come up through the bottom of the A arm. And no...you can't install new boots from the top side once in place.
syswayne1939

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posted 09-24-2016 04:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for syswayne1939     send a private message to syswayne1939   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by syswayne1939
quote:
Originally posted by CAT-A-TONIC:
I have tried that but no go. The boots aren't held on the bjs the same way. U can't just pop off the old and throw on a new one. The boots are held in place with a spiral lock wire and must be the exact size for clearance so they can come up through the bottom of the A arm. And no...you can't install new boots from the top side once in place.
My boots are both split and I have had my ball joints replaced once. Now I am getting afraid to drive it very far because probably no grease left in the ball joint> We are in pickle on this one.

CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 09-25-2016 03:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
Well.....your going to have to replace them. Case closed on that. Weather you do the job or pay someone. The recall kit lists for about $100.00.

If you decide to do it your self let me know and I will give you some major tips to make the job easier and come out good.

syswayne1939

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posted 09-25-2016 03:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for syswayne1939     send a private message to syswayne1939   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by syswayne1939
quote:
Originally posted by CAT-A-TONIC:
Well.....your going to have to replace them. Case closed on that. Weather you do the job or pay someone. The recall kit lists for about $100.00.

If you decide to do it your self let me know and I will give you some major tips to make the job easier and come out good.


Thank you on the help. I am 77 years young, but love to work on cars. Prowler little different that what I am use to. But will have to do it myself. Cost too much to have it done on SS. checks. thanks again


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