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Author Topic:   Enclosed Trailer Questions
BeWare





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From:Acworth , Georgia , USA
Registered: Jul 2000
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posted 03-15-2003 09:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
We went looking at Wells Cargo trailers and have decided on a 24ft Autowagon. We are getting a 6ft inside height trailer to reduce both wind drag and weight. 7' 6" wide interior. It includes the beaver tail, electric brakes both axles, curbside door, 2 interior dome lights with wall switch, rear corner stabilizing jacks, undercoating, electro deposition coated silver spoke wheels. Options we have decided on LED Lights upgrade, white vinyl covered walls, 12 1/2 inch extruded ramp extension, Nose cone (bubble), side entry door (drivers side).

Question: Should we go with the single piece vinyl linoleum floor covering? Should we get the matching spare $115 and the exterior mounting bracket $42? What size side door is recommended we were thinking 48" x 48"(48" is the max width and height can be up to 80". We are trying to get this to stay under a certain $ amount. Is there anything that you experienced trailer guys can think of that I shpuld considered and reason please. I am trying to stay within a certain budget.

Neal & Mary Ann Bardens


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From:Lowell Indiana USA
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posted 03-15-2003 09:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Neal & Mary Ann Bardens     send a private message to Neal & Mary Ann Bardens   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Neal & Mary Ann Bardens
I got the rubber tread plate floor and ramp. It will be easier to load when your tires are damp or wet. The trailers that I have seen with the vinyl floors don't look so good after a few years.
Neal

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Ronald Heintschel


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From:Maumee OH U.S.A
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posted 03-15-2003 09:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ronald Heintschel     send a private message to Ronald Heintschel   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Ronald Heintschel
Hi
I had a VINTAGE trailer for my 1972 Plymouth Cuda.
The back door was all polished diamond plate aluminum.
Had BLACK and WHITE checkered floor.
Had POLISHED DIAMOND plate aluminum runners for the tires.
Up front was a spare tire well in the floor.Also the battery for the interior lights and breakway safety.
If you have any questions feel free to call me at
419-865-4229 Or email me at prqwler01@buckeye-express.com
I have pic of trailer
Also make sure your door bottom will clear the opening of the trailer
Good luck
Ron
George C


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posted 03-16-2003 12:53 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for George C     send a private message to George C   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by George C
I have a 20ft trailer and theres plenty of room in front .I also have the beaver tail with 18 inch extended ramp,checkerboard floor,extra battery,spare tire(outside mount)finished inside,etc.,etc..It's a PACE. You could save some $$ with a 20ft and easier to find space to park it.
George C


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posted 03-16-2003 12:59 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for George C     send a private message to George C   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by George C
I forgot to mention.....I have the 102" wide and can open the door and get out.Don't think you can on narrower ones.Pulls great!!!Something to consider.
WildCat





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posted 03-16-2003 07:57 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for WildCat     send a private message to WildCat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by WildCat
Rich,

I would go with the 102" wide, the distance between the wheel wells are the same on both 8' & 8 1/2'. I doubt you would notice the difference pulling but you will once insdie and tieing down.

I wish I had the vinyl floor with diamond plate runners for the tires. If cost is a factor now this can be done later.

drivers side access, if 4x4 is as large as they put in get it, if you are going with this option.

I bought a spare for my trailer and have about $100 in it. If you want to be able to put it on and leave it buy the one from them. I have mine inside, less chance of it being stolen and protects from the weather.

I know you have the trailer towing mirrors, ARE THEY POWER AND WHAT ALL IS POWER.

I installed the `98~02 trailer towing mirrors on my `95, they are manual with is OK but I read were the 03 has power tariler mirrors

Call me if you have any questions

GET THE DISTIBUTION HITCH!!!!!!!

Laddie Roussel





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posted 03-16-2003 08:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Laddie Roussel     send a private message to Laddie Roussel   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Laddie Roussel
Rich.

I have the spare & holder mounted in front (outside) of trailer. I only have the painted wood floor. As mentioned this is something you could always add later. My ramp extension is 18" (it's more than a foot). I have the standard escape door (driver side and I think it's 48" x 48". I can measure it tommorrow... With the Prowler, the drivers door will open outside the trailer. Very easy in & out...

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MIKE GATLIN





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posted 03-16-2003 09:28 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for MIKE GATLIN     send a private message to MIKE GATLIN   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by MIKE GATLIN
Rich, I have 20' 7'6", 102" wide "WeHaul" trailer. Because of the exterior finish (like semi trailer fiberglass composite material and construction) there really is nothing to ever go wrong with it except tires and brakes. I don't have driver side exit door but really haven't needed it..especially if the top is down on the car when I get out. Lower roof height makes sense. The 102 wide allows you to get by the car on either side inside trailer.

Vinyl floor would look nice, but would add more weight than paint, could be slippery and harder to clean..I use a leaf blower to clean mine out. I have considered painting a checkerboard on the floor, and with your talents maybe a logo or car-icature in the center.

I would suggest a spare with the rig, no mismatch problems with tires or wheels, and it is done. I keep mine inside for protection and security.

I just installed a weight distribution hitch system and anti sway device but have yet to try them on the highway..sure makes the truck and trailer sit nice and even.

Laddie has a great looking padlock system for his Wells Cargo..they look to be saw, bolt cutter and bullet proof. Keep an eye open for some large rubbermaid tubs for storage in the trailer. Laddie also had given me a website for AW direct...http://www.awdirect.com for any tie down equipment you can think of. I have ordered several times...always quick, dependable, high quality and good price, and you will get catalogs for life..although you can't beat Sams Club for 2 or 2 1/2" yellow high strength tie down straps, about $12. apiece.

If you go with the 24' Wells Cargo, Laddie could give you his layout for D rings that would help you alot.

Good luck with it, I think you and Linda will enjoy having the trailer.

BeWare





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posted 03-16-2003 07:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
Thanks everyone wide body it is. Guy at trailer sales says he will sell me the anti sway and or equalizer if I need them, but after looking at my truck doesn't think I will.. Said he would be surpised if my truck would be lowered even and inch.
Larry the trailer mirrors are eletric only to the extent of moving the mirror glass in/out and up/down adjustment and they are also heated. The raising and lowering of the mirror body however is manual. Since you sometimes haul your trailer (which is why I am going with the 24 ft) could you give me measurements of the placement of your D Rings.

This message has been edited by BeWare on 03-16-2003 at 07:09 PM

Tom Mills




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Tom Mills / Jefferson Auto
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From:Niles, MI and Punta Gorda FL
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posted 03-16-2003 09:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tom Mills     send a private message to Tom Mills   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tom Mills
Keep in mind that when you lower the trailer height you also shorten the rear door that makes the loading ramp angle higher and the nose may not clear.
BeWare





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posted 03-16-2003 09:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
Thanks Tom, didn't think of that one. He has a 6ft tall trailer on the lot, We will have to take the Prowler up and try and load it before we place the order.
Neal & Mary Ann Bardens


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posted 03-16-2003 09:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Neal & Mary Ann Bardens     send a private message to Neal & Mary Ann Bardens   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Neal & Mary Ann Bardens
If you can swing it get one with the torsion bar suspension. They pull and ride better than the standard springs.
Neal

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prowlerbabe


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posted 03-17-2003 08:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for prowlerbabe     send a private message to prowlerbabe   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by prowlerbabe
Rich, I would think twice out the beaver tail. The rear end of the trailer is merely inches from the road. I believe Laddie doesn't have a beaver tail, but a fold down diamond plate ramp at the bottom of the rear door for a smooth exit.
I've already caught both back corners pulling into parking lots that have a dip in them. (Just a thought and it might save you about $100.00)
Kendra
Neal & Mary Ann Bardens


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posted 03-17-2003 08:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Neal & Mary Ann Bardens     send a private message to Neal & Mary Ann Bardens   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Neal & Mary Ann Bardens
I had bogey wheels installed to the rear of my trailer at the factory. This is supposed to eliminate damage from curbs.
Neal

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Scotty




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posted 03-17-2003 09:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scotty     send a private message to Scotty   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Scotty
Rich why do you want the driver exit door?
Scott
BeWare





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posted 03-17-2003 09:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
It's not an exit door. It is an access door that allows the driver door to be opned all the way, allowing for easier exit from the car. When your my age, every little thing helps Saw it on Tom Mills trailer and loved it.

This message has been edited by BeWare on 03-17-2003 at 09:30 PM

Scotty




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posted 03-17-2003 09:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scotty     send a private message to Scotty   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Scotty
Rich
The reason I asked was because most car doors won't clear the fender in the trailer and a lot of the guys I know that have them wish they hadn't spent the money on them. If the door on the Prowler clears the fender does it really open much farther ... we all know they don't open very far ... but as we get older every little bit helps
Scott
BeWare





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posted 03-17-2003 10:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
Scotty the fender well on the Wells Cargo trailer is 10" tall. The Prowler door outer edge (rear) is approx 17" to 17.5" from the floor and the inner edge (near the front) is approx. 14.5". The door bottom angles up from front to rear unlike most car doors which are the same height front to rear. The wide body Wells Cargo I am getting is 81" wide between the the fender wells. The Prowler is approx 72" wide at the outside front edge of the front of the rear fenders where they meets the valance. The width between the outside of the doors is even less. Even allowing for an additional lip on the access door over the fender wells, the clearance should not be a problem, I should be able to open the drivers door all the way with room to spare. The inside dimension between the walls is 90.75". Without the access door I would only be able to open the doors about 15" (give or take) with the car centered in the trailer.

This message has been edited by BeWare on 03-17-2003 at 10:38 PM

Scotty




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posted 03-17-2003 11:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scotty     send a private message to Scotty   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Scotty
Rich
Sounds like you have it on the ball. I'll need to look at that option when I get my new trailer. Thanks for the info.
Scott
leon kurzweil


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posted 03-18-2003 02:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for leon kurzweil     send a private message to leon kurzweil   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by leon kurzweil
Well after all of the investigations, endless hours of research and help from the 4 corners of the globe, I have decided to order the same trailer Tom Mills has..except in Yellow. Now why the heck I'm even listening to him is lunacy on my part...however, seriously, Mr. Mills (he's older than me) has been a great consigliere in guiding my decision of open vs. enclosed and which trailer to actually purchase. So, my friend..as a testament for any and all who seek your advice, at least on this topic, Ya cain't do better than Tom Mills.
Thanks so much...

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