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Author | Topic: WTB - Trunk release plug |
koolkty POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Oxford, MI, United States |
posted 11-10-2018 06:13 PM
Three of my fellow POA members have supplied parts to me for installing a passenger side trunk release. I have it working, but the connectors into the back of the switch are a substitute for the plug designed for it. I am wondering if someone my have one of these plugs that I could graft onto the end of the wires. As it is now, the metal on each touches and could trigger the trunk release without pressing the button. Some electrical tape around each may solve this short term but having the plug would be better long term. Could this part have been the same on other Chrysler cars at the time? Below is a picture of the new switch and how it is wired now. |
u00tjs2 a POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:ft wayne, in, USA |
posted 11-11-2018 08:25 AM
Can you put piece of heat shrink over terminals to keep from touching?? ------------------ |
koolkty POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Oxford, MI, United States |
posted 11-11-2018 09:02 AM
I got the same suggestion from Jeff Wallis, who supplied the wiring for me. I've considered that option as well, but wanted to first see if I can get the same plug that it was designed to use. Also, the metal connectors on the end of the wires that Jeff provided are a tight fit once they are both attached to the metal prongs coming out of the back of the switch, so the shrink wrap would have to shrink a lot to ensure both can be wrapped and still have room to both attach. |
alrtg POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Westminster, MD, USA |
posted 11-11-2018 09:20 AM
IF there is a junk yard anywhere near you that allows people to pick their own parts, look for a Chrysler product with a remote trunk release in the glove box. I think they use the same button and the plug may be what you are looking for. Here is an example currently on flea bay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-CONCORDE-TRUNK-RELEASE-SWITCH-BUTTON-1997-CHRYSLER/183511735919?hash=item2aba26de6f:g:f4IAAOSwl-FXNFYt:rk:17:pf:0 |
koolkty POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Oxford, MI, United States |
posted 11-11-2018 09:31 AM
I've attached a couple more photos; one to show what it looks like up close with both wires unattached, and the other to show how it fits with just one attached. |
koolkty POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Oxford, MI, United States |
posted 11-11-2018 09:38 AM
Thanks alrtg, just saw your reply after posting my last one with my additional pictures. I figured it was a common part. I'll consider this option as well. |
alrtg POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Westminster, MD, USA |
posted 11-11-2018 10:16 AM
As you can see, I like the idea of matching release buttons and brackets too. |
robin POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St Thomas Ontario Canada |
posted 11-11-2018 11:09 AM
maybe this will help .. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Trunk-Release-Switch-Button-Fits-2001-2002-2003-2004-CHRYSLER-300M-D185-165392/362482048695?hash=item54659d1eb7:g:qLwAAOSwbKdb5Hsi&vxp=mtr |
robin POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:St Thomas Ontario Canada |
posted 11-11-2018 11:10 AM
This message has been edited by robin on 11-11-2018 at 11:50 AM |
koolkty POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Oxford, MI, United States |
posted 11-11-2018 01:24 PM
Hi Robin, thanks for the photo. Those look like the clips Jeff had on the wiring he sent to me, although not sure which size is the one he used. Presumably not the smallest example. In the meantime I did some Ebay searches and sent some questions to see if I can find a compatible match. |
MDProwler POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Fallston,MD USA |
posted 11-11-2018 05:15 PM
Get the proper push on connector, run the wires thru 3/8” wire loom and use a 2” section of heat shrink tubing to cover the connectors and hold the wire loom. It’s what I did with many that I assembled and sold. |
koolkty POA Site Supporter Prowler Junkie From:Oxford, MI, United States |
posted 11-18-2018 07:58 AM
Thanks again to all for the info on how to get this work. I ended up using a smaller connector (like the third one in Robin's photo examples), and covered each with a heat shrink wrap. This smaller size fit on the terminals on the back of the switch. I then covered it in a wire loom and some electrical tape at the top to fully cover the connectors. Then used a high strength epoxy to attach the bracket to the deck lid. This was definitely a group effort, so again a big thank you to all who supplied the parts and know-how to help a newbie like me. |
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