posted 08-20-2017 01:07 PM                  

I believe I have my interlock/ignition issue resolved. I went for a test ride and encountered an issue I was dealing with 9 months ago. What happens is you will be driving and my engine at idle will just shut off. Yesterday it was happening not only at idle but driving at 30MPH. It got a little weird the last time it happened because the motor did not start right back up like it usually does. Fuel pump?

Nine months ago I replaced all sensors and checked the computer wiring harnesses in which I insulated the harness with foam and duct tape after splitting the hardness apart and checking the wires. All looks good there.

What else may cause this my PCM is a new one only 2 years old. Any ideas of where I shall look?

Thanks

posted 08-20-2017 08:14 PM                  

When I got the car I emptied the tank and put in new fuel. I put in fuel stabilizer as it sat for 7 months. I ran the fuel stabilizer through the system before leaving it sit for 7 months as I worked on it.

The car has fresh fuel in it again and more stabilizer. I do that to all my cars because I don't know when I will be running them again so I am always prepared.

Thanks!

quote:

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Originally posted by robin:
I would test the fuel pump first.
Then how old is the gas in the car?
Then you can do a search for engine stops while driving.
One big thread with Dave Haggas but his were o2 sensors.

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posted 08-20-2017 10:46 PM                  

Yes indeed I get the check engine light. I have a code scanner from troubleshooting all my sensors months ago.No errors reported in the system.

I spent a ton of money replacing all sensors, belts, hoses, waterpump etc. After I did all that work my last issue was the engine shutting off.

This issue is weird. At first I thought it was only happening when the car was warming up but even after a few hours of driving it will happen.

Thanks!

quote:

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Originally posted by padroo:
No check engine light?

Fuel pump pressure is easy to check

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posted 08-21-2017 12:26 PM                  

I appreciate the help. I have replaced all sensors in the car which included the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft. I am wondering if I may be dealing with the fuel pump at times being flakey. The reason I say that is on Saturday usually when this happens I can quickly restart the car. This time I had to crank it a few times and give it some gas.

Thanks!

quote:

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Originally posted by padroo:
If I remember right the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors have to send a signal to the PCM. Then the PCM turns on the fuel pump. If either of these signals are lost the car will stall.

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posted 08-21-2017 01:28 PM                  

I just went through a fuel pump issue with my wife's 1989 Lincoln Town Car. I changed the fuel pump and luckily you can buy the whole drop in unit for it. I had to drop the gas tank to install it and it still wouldn't run. I got it from Amazon and it was easy to return and installed the second one. It still didn't start right up because even though I had fresh gas in the tank all that old gas was still in the lines. Finally with enough starting fluid it started and runs great. It hasn't been on the road for about ten years.

posted 08-21-2017 02:22 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by padroo:
In your troubleshooting process don't forget the fuel pump relay. When relays start to go bad they can be intermittent. I would check the fuel pump and it should hold pressure long after the engine is shut off.

I just went through a fuel pump issue with my wife's 1989 Lincoln Town Car. I changed the fuel pump and luckily you can buy the whole drop in unit for it. I had to drop the gas tank to install it and it still wouldn't run. I got it from Amazon and it was easy to return and installed the second one. It still didn't start right up because even though I had fresh gas in the tank all that old gas was still in the lines. Finally with enough starting fluid it started and runs great. It hasn't been on the road for about ten years.

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posted 08-21-2017 09:18 PM                  

You could switch the fuel pump relay with the high speed cooling fan relay for example.

posted 08-21-2017 10:37 PM                  

Thank you again for your help. On the way home I picked up a new relay. I am going to pop it in and see the results it can hurt.

quote:

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Originally posted by padroo:
I believe there are similar relays in the Power Distribution Center you can just switch them.

You could switch the fuel pump relay with the high speed cooling fan relay for example.

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posted 08-21-2017 10:40 PM                  

Who has a decently priced fuel pump? I am seeing crazy prices $800-$900?

quote:

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Originally posted by padroo:
No check engine light?

Fuel pump pressure is easy to check

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posted 08-22-2017 07:02 AM                  

This link is from the home page of this forum.

posted 08-22-2017 07:56 AM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by padroo:
Tom Mills, here.
http://www.jeffersonautocollision.com/prowler-parts/

This link is from the home page of this forum.

Tom has other products he sells to POA members and is active here on the forum. Just call up Jefferson Automotive from the link above.

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posted 08-22-2017 01:30 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by padroo:
Tom Mills, here.
http://www.jeffersonautocollision.com/prowler-parts/

This link is from the home page of this forum.

Tom has other products he sells to POA members and is active here on the forum. Just call up Jefferson Automotive from the link above.

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posted 08-22-2017 01:31 PM                  

Thanks again!

quote:

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Originally posted by 401KAT:
Has everything to change including tool ...I bought a spare to have for my couple...nice people

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posted 08-23-2017 04:46 PM                  

Thanks for the reply. I have checked all electrical and nothing is found to be an issue. I wouldn't be looking at the fuel pump if it wasn't for the last experience. The last time it acted up it wasn't just an engine shut off. Instead of starting right up I had to crank it over and over giving it fuel it sputtered, almost started then started but felt boggy. I gave it more gas and got it running. I continued my drive and didn't have any issues with the shut off for the remainder of the day.

I will have to check the fuel pressure and see what I can find. How are other members checking the Prowler's fuel pressure? All my other cars are quite old and all fuel lines and other components are easily accessed. I can simply put a fuel pressure gauge inline on my other cars.

Thanks!

quote:

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Originally posted by dru:
Rob AKA Widow. I am no expert but after reading your post, I'm doubtful it's a bad fuel pump. It really sounds more like an electrical issue. You need to check the fuel pump pressures first. It should be 50 key on, 60 running, then very slow drop off over hours after it's turned off. If your pressures are good, mechanically nothing is wrong with yours. Then you need to look at electrical issues. I'd hate to see you buy a new fuel pump and then not fix your problem. Just my 2 cents.

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posted 08-23-2017 11:08 PM                  

Thanks!

quote:

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Originally posted by dru:
Widow, As Dale said, there is a schrader valve which is like a tire stem valve. Just unscrew the cap on it and attach the fuel pressure gauge. The pressure gauge should have a screw on attachment. Just FYI, you'll swear there is no way you can screw the "straight" attachment valve onto the the prowler schrader valve, trying to get it lined up to start threading it. But you can, just keep at it. You can only get one to 2 fingers in there to turn it. Then do the pressure check. Also, if there is ANY check engine light, pull the codes stored. If there are no codes on your scanner, you may need to take it to a mechanic shop with professional scanners. Hope this helps.

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posted 08-24-2017 04:39 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by Tomcal:

Has to be a high pressure gauge. 100psi. Running pressure is around 60psi. Hot Rod carburetor type gauge wouldn't hack it.

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posted 09-20-2017 09:44 PM                  

Good luck!