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  2000 Prowler - No Crank, No Lights, No Start!

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Author Topic:   2000 Prowler - No Crank, No Lights, No Start!
ascorbate


From:KINGSVILLE, MD, United States
Registered: Aug 2022
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posted 08-14-2022 05:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ascorbate     send a private message to ascorbate   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ascorbate
I'm having the same problem previously posted: 2000 Prowler No Crank... No Start!

Single click (when trying to start)
No interior dash lights working
Fuse #10 looks to be intact and okay

New battery, battery connections look good!
Getting 12.9 volts to the positive pole on the starter.

At this point, I thought it was the solenoid on the starter so I went thru the agonizing process of removing the starter; it eventually did maneuver out underneath in the triangle between the catalytic converter (hypotenuse) and two angled aluminum body supports (the two other sides of a triangle)... I have pixs!

I then had the starter tested three times (at the same facility) and was told there is nothing wrong with the starter...

So I'm now thinking possibly the ignition switch or PCM?

How would I test the ignition switch? the PCM?

Anything else I might be missing?

stevedymo


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posted 08-14-2022 07:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for stevedymo     send a private message to stevedymo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by stevedymo
Check Fuse 13 and 19 (10A) in driver's side dash.
Also check Fuse 13 (40A) in PDC.

Check the engine starter motor relay in the Power Distribution Center (PDC).

Dick Henry


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posted 08-14-2022 08:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dick Henry     send a private message to Dick Henry   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Dick Henry
Had the same problem on my 2000. When I engaged the ignition the starter would click then everything went dead. It was an intermittent problem. Turned out it was the battery cable not making a good ground. Hope your problem is as simple as mine. You’ve come to the right spot for help. Someone here will help you find the problem.
ascorbate


From:KINGSVILLE, MD, United States
Registered: Aug 2022
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posted 08-15-2022 03:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ascorbate     send a private message to ascorbate   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ascorbate
quote:
Originally posted by stevedymo:
Check Fuse 13 and 19 (10A) in driver's side dash.
Also check Fuse 13 (40A) in PDC.

Check the engine starter motor relay in the Power Distribution Center (PDC).



Driver's side dash fuse 13 - okay
Driver's side dash fuse 19 - okay

PDC Fuse 13 (40amp Ignition SW) - okay

I also checked:
PDC Fuse 11 (40amp Ignition SW) - okay

For the PDC "engine starter motor relay" ... might you mean the EATX Relay (space #2)? If so, how might that be checked... do you ohm it out?

BTW: You need really small hands to get to the PDC... it's sandwiched (on the driver's side) between the brake fluid reservoir and the left engine body panel!

This message has been edited by ascorbate on 08-15-2022 at 03:47 PM

ascorbate


From:KINGSVILLE, MD, United States
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posted 08-15-2022 03:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ascorbate     send a private message to ascorbate   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ascorbate
quote:
Originally posted by Dick Henry:
When I engaged the ignition the starter would click then everything went dead. It was an intermittent problem.

Yes, this happened to me and this seems to have been the final act... everything is now dead!

I pondered that since I was getting 12.9 volts to the positive pole on the starter that my battery terminal connections seemed good although they are old. So, I'm going to put on new positive and negative terminals before re-connecting to the new battery...

padroo




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posted 08-15-2022 04:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
A voltage check with a meter can lie to you. You can show the proper voltage but can't necessarily carry the current needed.
Don't forget to check where the negative battery cable connects to the frame.
A quick check for battery terminals is to have someone in the car with the key held in the crank position and someone at the battery with a quarter jamming it between the battery terminal and battery post one at a time. It will only cost you a quarter. LOL

This message has been edited by padroo on 08-15-2022 at 04:34 PM

Tony Goertz






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posted 08-15-2022 05:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tony Goertz     send a private message to Tony Goertz   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tony Goertz
Another owner had same problem a month ago. Battery connector to battery cable joint was bad. Putting on new cable terminals is a good idea.
You would not be the first one with that problem.

It is easy to take off engine side panel so you can reach PDC.
Same thing for reaching PCM on passenger side.

Tomcal


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posted 08-15-2022 08:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tomcal     send a private message to Tomcal   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tomcal
Use a replacement battery clamp as shown below.


ascorbate


From:KINGSVILLE, MD, United States
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posted 08-16-2022 05:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ascorbate     send a private message to ascorbate   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ascorbate
quote:
Originally posted by Tomcal:
Use a replacement battery clamp as shown below.


New gold battery terminal installed and connected... shouldn't my emergency flashers work at a minimum?

This message has been edited by ascorbate on 08-16-2022 at 05:57 PM

Dick Henry


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posted 08-16-2022 06:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dick Henry     send a private message to Dick Henry   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Dick Henry
Well you’ve eliminated that connection as being the problem. Now make sure the battery negative is properly grounded at the frame. When it comes to electrical issues I am definitely a novice. If it’s not a ground it’s a fuse or short somewhere. If your not getting any power to anything it’s either a ground or something between the battery & power distribution center. Just my guess. Others more knowledgeable will chime in I’m sure. Keep us informed as to your progress.

ascorbate


From:KINGSVILLE, MD, United States
Registered: Aug 2022
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posted 08-16-2022 07:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ascorbate     send a private message to ascorbate   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ascorbate
quote:
Originally posted by Dick Henry:
Well you’ve eliminated that connection as being the problem. Now make sure the battery negative is properly grounded at the frame. When it comes to electrical issues I am definitely a novice. If it’s not a ground it’s a fuse or short somewhere. If your not getting any power to anything it’s either a ground or something between the battery & power distribution center. Just my guess. Others more knowledgeable will chime in I’m sure. Keep us informed as to your progress.

First picture is the negative terminal connection to the new battery; a battery wire brush was used to clean the inside of the terminal before attaching it to the negative battery post.

Second picture is the other end of this negative wire; it measures about 12" in total length and connects to the frame... it looks good, feels tight with no corrosion evident.

The total lack of all electrical power everywhere (no headlights, no emergency flashers, no dash lights when the key is turned) has me bewildered... could it be something ignition switch related (eg. the switch itself, the actuator inside)?

I have NOT "ohmed out" any of the mentioned fuses... I carefully inspected them visually but maybe I need to ohm them out?

This message has been edited by ascorbate on 08-16-2022 at 07:43 PM

ed monahan






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posted 08-16-2022 08:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
FEEL the positive battery cable. The entire length. Some of them were rubbing on the edge of the battery and shorting out. You can't see it, you have to feel it since it is small and UNDER the wire, out of sight.

Please post when you solve this mystery, for future reference.

garysss





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posted 08-16-2022 08:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for garysss     send a private message to garysss   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by garysss
Try adjusting steering wheel all the way up and down to see if anything changes. Maybe a pinched wire or bad connection somewhere.
Dick Henry


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From:South Padre Island, TX, USA
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posted 08-17-2022 04:30 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dick Henry     send a private message to Dick Henry   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Dick Henry
Just because a fuse or connection looks good doesn’t mean it is good.
ascorbate


From:KINGSVILLE, MD, United States
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posted 08-17-2022 02:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ascorbate     send a private message to ascorbate   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ascorbate
quote:
Originally posted by garysss:
Try adjusting steering wheel all the way up and down to see if anything changes. Maybe a pinched wire or bad connection somewhere.

Okay, I tried that... no changes!

Tomcal


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From:Long Island, NY, USA
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posted 08-17-2022 02:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tomcal     send a private message to Tomcal   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tomcal
quote:
Originally posted by ed monahan:
FEEL the positive battery cable. The entire length. Some of them were rubbing on the edge of the battery and shorting out. You can't see it, you have to feel it since it is small and UNDER the wire, out of sight.

Please post when you solve this mystery, for future reference.



Battery case is plastic and cannot short out to positive cable. Plastic is non-conductive.

However, check where positive cable goes under radiator and then to Power Distribution Center. Rubbing against metal near PDC has happened before to other users. This would be a short, but it doesn't appear to be a short in what you're describing.

Get rid of the old original negative able and replace with quality one. Just looking, touching cable and connection doesn't mean it's sound. Same with fuses. Check for Power on BOTH sides of fuses.


Let's start with the basic simple circuit tests.

Does the Horn work? does the Radio play? This will tell you if there's some power flowing to this relatively simple circuits.

With your meter, test from positive connection On PDC to ground. Should be 12-14 Volts. Main battery positive voltage going to DDC for distribution. Check to make sure battery cable is tightly secured to PDC positive post. Remove negative battery cable before tightening nut on PDC. You don't want to short something with your wrench.

PDC to battery cable connection nut, area outlined in yellow

ascorbate


From:KINGSVILLE, MD, United States
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posted 08-17-2022 04:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ascorbate     send a private message to ascorbate   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ascorbate
quote:
Originally posted by Tomcal:

Get rid of the old original negative able and replace with quality one. Just looking, touching cable and connection doesn't mean it's sound.

Tomcal, you get the prize!!!

I have been perplexed for nearly 5 days now. Replacing the negative battery wire (all 12 inches of it) has remedied this problem. Obviously I looked right past this wire as a possible culprit more than a few times...

Even with this cable out and on the ground, it LQQKS okay, but IT IS NOT!

My horn, emergency flashers and dash lights (turning the key to the point right before starting the engine) now work. I am awaiting a new (not remanufactured) starter for installation since I went thru all that trouble to get out the old one... may as well install a brand new one! But I'm feeling pretty certain I will be back on the road in short order now...

Thanks to those who chimed in with suggestions... seems like it took a community of Prowlers to fix this problem!



This message has been edited by ascorbate on 08-17-2022 at 07:07 PM

ed monahan






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posted 08-17-2022 05:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
Glad to see you probably have it solved. Have fun putting the starter back in. What a pain in the ***.
garysss





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posted 08-17-2022 06:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for garysss     send a private message to garysss   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by garysss
Thanks for posting results. Glad your almost there.
Tomcal


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posted 08-18-2022 04:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tomcal     send a private message to Tomcal   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tomcal
[QUOTE]Originally posted by ascorbate:
Tomcal, [B]you get the prize!!!

I have been perplexed for nearly 5 days now. Replacing the negative battery wire (all 12 inches of it) has remedied this problem. Obviously I looked right past this wire as a possible culprit more than a few times...

.............................................................................

Happy to be of assistance.

And thank-you for posting your results. So few do.

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