posted 10-12-2019 06:34 PM                  

Also as Beachkat 2 stated, could be a bad coil. Take an ohm meter and take a resistance reading on each coil. They all should have about the same reading. If one is notably different than the others, replace it.

posted 10-12-2019 08:35 PM                  

Tech says computer will not reset? Drive cycle computer?

These are not accurate descriptive words.

Is Tech really trying to say "Computer Not Ready" There are 6 parameters/monitors that need to be "Ready' to start and pass emissions inspection in most cases.

There is no drive cycle computer. Engine computer (PCM) needs to see a that all parameters (monitors) are "Ready" before starting test.

A drive cycle is a set of conditions that a car needs to go through to be "Ready". Typically 30-50 miles of combination highway and around town driving. It varies from manufacture to manufacturer.

Is emissions test being done at tailpipe or relying on PCM computer for results? Emission test procedure vary from state to state.

You should ask Tech what conditions/monitors are "Not Ready"

I doubt a bad coil would cause and engine to stall, unless there is more than one bad coil. Misfire and run rough, yes.

When car stalls, does it just abruptly shut off or misfire than stall?

A misfire can also be bad fuel injector(s).

There is a electrical capacitor attached to each engine bank that has at times caused random misfires to occur.

Try to get more info from Tech.

posted 10-12-2019 08:36 PM                  

A random misfire is code PO300.
A PO302 code would be cylinder #2 and so forth.

Standing at the front of the engine, the right bank, passenger side, is 1,3,5 cylinders. The left bank, driver's side, is 2,4,6 cylinders.

I have an Innova scanner that I bought from Amazon. It works well and will allow you to clear the codes.

posted 10-13-2019 10:15 AM                  

There are a specific number of cycles the computer needs to see, along with an unknown number of miles before the computers at the emissions stations will recognize and accept your car for testing.

I went through this last time I went through emissions.

You need to drive the car for a while then shut it off, drive some more, shut it off, drive some more, shut it off.

I would suggest driving it around the block daily for a few days which will provide both mileage and drive cycles that will hopefully be enough to satisfy the computers. After that, take it back for testing if the check engine light does not stay on.

You are right, the unqualified, poorly trained, non-automotively inclined "Technicians" contracted to do this are generally clueless and only read the computer screen.

IF your check engine light is not illuminated when you go in for testing and they still fail the car, I would ask for a detailed explanation as to why they feel it does not pass.
When they are unable to provide one, ask to speak to someone competent if they have such an individual employed there.

For all you know, there is a fault within their computer or the "Technician" has made some bonehead error that results in unnecessary aggravation on your part.

IF you feel you need to clear any temporary codes that are stored in your computer, drive the car to one of the "Big Box" auto parts stores that advertise free Check Engine Light testing. Some stores will loan you the tool for use in their parking lot.
Sometimes one of the employees will offer to do this for you but some retailers discourage their people from actually doing this for the customer which is why they loan to tool, as an incentive for you to purchase parts from them.

posted 10-14-2019 01:42 PM                  

For Jeep, Chrysler and Dodge
The owner’s manual states that the vehicle has a simple ignition key actuated test, which you can use prior to going to the test station. To check if your vehicle’s OBD II system is ready, you must do the following:

Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position, but do not crank or start the engine. If you crank or start the engine, you will have to start this test over.
As soon as you turn the ignition switch to the ON position, you will see the MIL (Check Engine Light) symbol come on as part of a normal bulb check.
Approximately 15 seconds later, one of two things will happen:
The MIL will flash for about 10 seconds and then return to being fully illuminated until you turn OFF the ignition or start the engine. This means that your vehicle’s OBD II system is not ready and you should not proceed to the smog check station.
The MIL will not flash at all and will remain fully illuminated until you turn OFF the ignition or start the engine. This means that your vehicle’s OBD II system is ready and you can proceed to the smog check station.