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Thanks firegabe My temporary fix was to put some silicone over the pinholes. The silicone gets drawn in to the holes and no leaks ever since. I'm getting my one lower ball joint replaced this week as those are sealed, and the boot is torn bad on the lower. My silicone fix didn't work so well on the lower boot, but the upper one is holding nicely. Looks like crap, but holds the grease in... I'd be very interested to see where we can get the boots for the uppers...or even spare upper ball joints. I was lucky to be able to get JUST the lower ball joints as a "recall" kit. Try the Stratus/Cirrus/Sebring upper joints, which come with a boot. The ones Butchee are showing in the photos should work just fine. firegabe I have exploded the boots of BOTH of my front top A-arms ball joints. was the recall for the top or the bottom?
Please Please PleaseLarry Lord The recall was for the lower ball joints only. butchcee You probably can't get the boots anymore unless someone has them lying around.The upper used a non-sealed balljoint with a separate rubber seal. I'm going to try a balljoint with the same specs as the original except that it's sealed with it's own boot and has no grease fitting.I was told by someone in the know that it will interchange. I'll give them a shot on my new polished front end, but wont get them installed for a few weeks at best. ed monahan Firegabe, I heard the ball joints were off a Ford Taurus. I know everyone thinks I am pulling your leg, but I am not. Hopefully someone in the know will chime in. I am not going to divulge a name unless they post. butchcee The ones told to me were off a DC vehicle--doesn't mean the ford ones aren't the same Black Tie 161 Very interesting as I have some pinhole leaks in one upper ball joint boot. Dealer overfilled the boot with grease last lube.....(I swear, I'm DONE with dealers..) butchcee Here's some shots of the top ball joint replacement that I'm going to try. They spec out almost the same with the exception of the small end of the taper being about .030 longer then the stock part. The original one doesn't pull all the way through the knuckle so this shouldn't be a problem. If it looks like it will pull through and not tighten, a washer can make up the space. The other difference is that it uses a larger bolt. It has a nice finish and will make the exposed joint look nicer without needing the plastic cap. The body is the same diameter and the taper is the same. Not sure what material it's made from, but it sure looks shiney.The body of the original was longer to accept the seal.
CJ The lower joints, including the boots are available from Mopar. They were released with the recall. You can order from your local dealers or any of the dealers who have advertised on our board with a discount for POA members. butchcee Yup--these are the ones RPL told me should exchange according to his sources. I wasn't going to post a source until they were in and parts exchange verified. firegabe wow you are all so great!!!! Yes please post the phone # so I may get the sealed ones. HUH HUH Shiney is cool
thanks!
firegabebutchcee the seal pushes up when installed in the arm which is OK and the exposed part will rust so you'll need a cover or some kind of plating to protect.I still don't have them installed with my polished front end. Someday I'll get around to it. IM IN XTC firegabe whats up dude. Wanted to know if you managed to track down those little metal stoppers for the head... remember the guy in Colorado that wanted them Russell.. Yellow and lime green kat
Whats up dude when you comming to Denver againjust jack Most likely happened by overfilling the ball joint...
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