posted 11-14-2019 02:59 PM                  

Last Thursday I was driving home and when I went to back into my garage (going slightly uphill) it started jerking and clunking on me. Kind of startled me so I stopped, shut it off, got out and looked underneath to see if something broke. Didn't see anything. I then re-started and put it in drive and it knocked a bit but then started going so I decided to drive it around the block. No issues in the higher gears. They all shifted like normal and then I tried them with the AutoStick and everything seemed fine with no delays in shifting. Once I got back, I went into reverse and same thing, jerking and clunking. I eventually got it parked. The next morning I decided to try again and when I left out of the garage it did a slight jerk (not like the day before) so I took off for work. When I left work Friday, I had to back out my parking spot and it would not go into Reverse at all. I thought I would open the door and maybe push with my foot to back it up but it is just a bit uphill backing out of the parking spot so I couldn't budge it. Turned it off and thought for a few seconds. Decided to start again and it was jerking while in Reverse. I got a little ticked off so pushed the gas a little and it bounced and jerked but backed up enough so I could put it in drive and get home. Decided to drive straight into the garage and park it.

I scheduled an appointment with my local Dodge/Chrysler dealer today. I had not even started it since last Friday but of course when I put it in reverse to back out everything worked perfect! I still dropped it off for them to look at. I got a call that their tech recommends to rebuild the trans-axle but they don't do that type of work and recommended a transmission shop.

posted 11-15-2019 04:43 PM                  

Reverse requires the highest hydraulic line pressure of all the gears in trans to operate properly.

When a filter starts to clog, reverse is first area effected due to restriction and resulting low fluid pressure.

Drain fluid and replace filter. Be sure to clean magnet that is in oil pan.

You should replace fluid a second time after putting on 50 or so miles to get more of the old fluid out that is residual in torque convertor. Probably do not need to replace filter again.

You can pump fluid out through filler tube and not have to drop pan a second time.

There is some controversy on doing a complete fluid exchange/flush by external machine.

USE ONLY MOPAR ATF+4 FLUID.

posted 11-17-2019 08:02 PM                  

I started searching my local area for a transmission repair shop and hopefully I can get it to one this week... I'm sure the cost just went up on this repair!

posted 11-18-2019 03:12 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by Tomcal:
Also check the front and rear drive shaft "rubber universal joints" for looseness or failure.

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posted 11-21-2019 09:56 PM                  

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-Chrysler-Prowler-Transmiss ion-Transaxle-w-Torque-Converter-New-MOPAR-/233352955374

posted 11-22-2019 02:51 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by mslc10:

Here is one on eBay;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-Chrysler-Prowler-Transmiss ion-Transaxle-w-Torque-Converter-New-MOPAR-/233352955374

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This appears to be a nice setup.

Complete with matching torque converter and what seems like the wiring harness and Transmission Control Module (TCM)