posted 12-03-2017 01:16 PM                  

has anyone changed the solid rubber spacers on driveshaft, one on the front and the one on the rear?
it seems that chrysler did this for what reason?
maybe this is also the culprit for loss thru drivetrain?
we took the tranny and converter out today and noticed that
today?
i figure there has to be something aftermarket?

sunbird

Prowler Junkie
From:Ridgecrest, California
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 02-12-2003 11:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for sunbird send a private message to sunbird Edit/Delete Message Reply w/Quote Search for more posts by sunbird
Because the kcat does not have a conventional rear end, a solid connection from the engine to the transmission makes a lot of sense. Nothing moves between the front to the back, so why have u-joints?
However, reality says you will not have a perfect alignment between engine and transmission and even though the distance is short, there is a slight movement due to frame bend and twist.

The rubber dodads allow the slight misalignment and movement to exist without binding and breaking that would occur with a truly solid connection.

KatAddict

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From:Greencastle, PA, USA
Registered: Aug 2001
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posted 12-03-2017 01:28 PM                  

http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/004151-2.html

posted 01-01-2011 09:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BradleyG send a private message to BradleyG Edit/Delete Message Reply w/Quote Search for more posts by BradleyG
We have it fixed. Here is the long version of the story: See the last line for the short version.

Normally, as I look for a cause to what is wrong. I suggest to look for the easiest solution first. ((This has once again proved to be the best path to finding the fix)). BUT.. I did not follow my own advice, wasted money and did not drive my Prowler for 3 months.

I asked for guidance here.. talked to a few of you, lay under the car while it was on jack stands and running in gear to pinpoint the area making the knocking noise. I concluded that the noise came from from the rear of the drive shaft as this is where I heard it the loudest. I used a rubber hose to listen with and determined the noise was not coming from the engine output shaft or the transmission input shaft, but from the drive shaft its self. It would have been pretty hard to put the hose against the drive shaft while it is spinning.. LOL.

Here is a hint of the where the noise was coming from.. Noise can travel down the full length of a shaft and make you believe it is knocking at the back door when it is actually knocking at the front door. Sooo. I decided that the only way to find the problem was to go ahead and remove the transmission back so that the drive shaft could be removed. I was convinced that the drive shaft was bad OR that the transmission input housing holds the problem. These items new are pretty expensive, so I began to look for good deals. I found a wrecking yard which specializes in Vipers to have two wrecked Prowlers for parts, so I bought a drive shaft and just for an "In case" I bought the transmission input housing for $550.00 total.. I saved a lot of money by purchasing the used parts.

So here I was.. Parts in hand and took the Prowler to the local Dodge dealer which has a Viper/Prowler technician. My instructions to him were to find the cause and let me know so we could decide what to do. With it on the rack, he could not determine where the noise came from either, so it is time to tear it down (At this point, I left to go to work). First to come off is the exhaust system. GOOD NEWS!! With the exhaust system removed, you can access the drive shaft front rubber coupler. He found the six bolts attaching the drive shaft to the transmission were loose. HE torqued them to specifications, put the exhaust back on and NO MORE KNOCKING NOISE!!! Did not have to do any more than that. Now, I have a good used drive shaft with rubber couplers and a transmission input housing for sale. $550.00 and I will pay the shipping within the 48 states.

I am back on the road and this is a good start to what will be a much better year than 2010 was. Thanks to you all for your support and words of encouragement during the last year and a half. Brad Grubbs

Bottom line is that the drive shaft rubber coupler bolts were loose on the front of the drive shaft.

posted 12-03-2017 05:38 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by cowpie636:
Question . If the front bearing is bad , do you have to pull the motor out to replace it ?

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I heard you do have to pull the motor. A few here may chime in with a better answer.
http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/010310-2.html

posted 12-03-2017 11:15 PM                  

I was looking in the shop manual and Chrysler refers to what most call a drive shaft a "propeller shaft".

Some trivia, they were being used in boats before cars used them so they used the same name. The first cars were mostly chain drive then in 1903 Clearence Spicer patented the first universal joint used in cars.

posted 12-22-2017 12:04 PM                  

I had my output bearing changed (Under Warranty) and they did pull the engine to do it. IF you have to do this assure that they torque the rubber coupler bolts. Took about a year until they became loose.
Good luck.

posted 12-30-2017 09:00 PM                  

Reason I ask is mine had a sound that was in relation to engine rpm that could have been described as a bearing knock. When the guys did my timing belt I had them see what noise was and they fixed whatever it was but was described as “ hangar was loose, we fixed it with some rubber strap or something”. I have not been able to get car lifted to see what was done . Or maybe they tighten driveshaft bolts....who knows. They didn’t charge me or described it on the bill.