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  Afraid to drive it. Knocking noise. (RESOLVED) (Page 1)

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Author Topic:   Afraid to drive it. Knocking noise. (RESOLVED)
BradleyG


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posted 09-21-2010 01:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BradleyG     send a private message to BradleyG   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BradleyG
At least I'm afraid to drive it very far.

Do any of you have any thoughts or ideas?? Have any of you experienced a noise from this same area?

There is a knocking noise from underneath the car with the car sitting still or moving We jacked the rear of the car up and was able to trace the sound. The knocking noise is coming from the front of the transmission. Where the drive shaft enters the transmission. It is more pronounced (Louder# when the car is in gear #With emergency brake on#. I believe there is a bearing where the drive shaft enters the transmission, but we have to move the transmission back in order to get to this. We could not find where anyone else has experienced this type of noise.

The performance and shifting has not been effected. Example, I can run it at WOT thru the gears without anything out of the ordinary except for the knocking sound. #(The good thing about WOT is that I can't hear the knocking sound then))

This message has been edited by BradleyG on 01-03-2011 at 11:58 AM

catfish




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posted 09-21-2010 01:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
sounds like a input shaft bearing.i would get it up on a rack and ck again to confrm.use a piece of rubber tubing next to your ear and move around on trans for exact location or a stethoscope if you have one.will not hurt it to drive it.

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This message has been edited by catfish on 09-21-2010 at 01:39 PM

stevedymo


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posted 09-21-2010 01:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for stevedymo     send a private message to stevedymo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by stevedymo
Sounds like the same problem Frank Peri (BlueTie) had at Deep Creek. Look up some of those posts or maybe Frank will chime in with more info to narrow down the problem.
BradleyG


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posted 09-21-2010 01:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BradleyG     send a private message to BradleyG   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BradleyG
We replaced the Output shaft bearing.. or was that input shaft bearing about 20,000 miles ago. We pulled the engine to get to it, but that was under warranty and this is not under warranty. That was the one behind the engine. So is there another input shaft bearing going into the transmission?? We have 80,000 miles on the car now.
I wish there was a easier/cheaper way to get to this thing without pulling the transmission.

Jan, thank you for your "input" LOL.. I was just hoping that by posting this that the noise will just go away. We traced the knocking sound to where the drive shaft enters the transmission.

Edit.. I just sent Frank a PM.. It sounds like I may have the same problem. Thanks for the info, Steve.. This is Frank's post. http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/019300.html

This message has been edited by BradleyG on 09-21-2010 at 02:09 PM

RPL




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posted 09-21-2010 02:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RPL     send a private message to RPL   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by RPL
This is the second reported failure. People don't realize that there is oil in the housing and the level should be checked periodically. The plugs aren't easy to see of find.
catfish




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posted 09-21-2010 02:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
the output bearing is behind the engine.the input is in frt.of the trans.there is a fill plug on the drivers side of the housing.takes a half quart of 10w30.maybe its low.the oil should be 3/16s of an inch below hole.

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This message has been edited by catfish on 09-21-2010 at 03:01 PM

BradleyG


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posted 09-21-2010 03:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BradleyG     send a private message to BradleyG   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BradleyG
Man.. In just a couple of hours I have learned sooo much. Talked with Frank Peri.. Read these posts.. found another post by Tony Goertz about checking the oil level in your Transaxle Bellhousing. Please look at it. It could save you a lot of expense and heartache. I wish I would have checked mine 10,000 miles ago.
http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/019307.html

It may be a few days, but I will keep you informed of what we find. Wouldn't it be nice if a little oil solved my problem..

catfish




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posted 09-21-2010 04:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
the trans axle gear oil is diff.that fill plug is on the rt side of the trans,the other one is left frt for the frt bearing.if there is no sign of a leak,might be full.lets hope its low.to replace bearing,you must remove complete t/a assembly according to manual.dont know if you can cheat that or not.let us know.

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David Veu Casovic




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posted 09-21-2010 08:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for David Veu Casovic     send a private message to David Veu Casovic   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by David Veu Casovic

Are we talking about #33 in this picture?

This message has been edited by David Veu Casovic on 09-21-2010 at 08:45 PM

Blue Tie





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posted 09-21-2010 08:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Blue Tie     send a private message to Blue Tie   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Blue Tie
Brad, nice talking to you today. Hopefully your problem will not be as bad as mine.

Everyone should check the fluid levels on the two sides of the tranny on a regular basis. This will save you lots of money.

catfish




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posted 09-21-2010 08:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
not33.33 is the diff.plug.the part were talking about is not in this blowup.its on the lt frt.side of rr.snout so to speak,the very frt.part of the bellhousing.its shown in the big manual.the frt half of that bellhousing thats not shown is where its located.its about 8 inches back on the lt side of the snout behnd the driveshaft snubber.fyi the fill plug on the rt side of tranny,in the blowup is #33-it takes gear lube-70/80 or 80/90 ck manual.the one in the lt frt takes 10w 30 engine oil.

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This message has been edited by catfish on 09-21-2010 at 08:31 PM

David Veu Casovic




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posted 09-21-2010 09:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for David Veu Casovic     send a private message to David Veu Casovic   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by David Veu Casovic
Are we talking about#15 ???

This message has been edited by David Veu Casovic on 09-21-2010 at 09:22 PM

idive


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posted 09-21-2010 09:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for idive     send a private message to idive   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by idive
David - I tried opening your pic on a separate page and it said the directory was full with too many pictures. You might want to notify Mike of this.

Because of the large number of pictures in this directory, this feature is currently unavailable. At some point in the future, the images will be sorted and devided by years and the indexing feature will once again be available. Sorry for the inconvenience.
The POA team.

well it worked when the page refreshed after my post...

This message has been edited by idive on 09-21-2010 at 09:32 PM

catfish




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posted 09-21-2010 09:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
yes,15 is the fill plug,the bearing and cup,which both must be replaced are 3 and 4.i would also replace #5 and 6 also.5 and 6 which are not shown may only come withe the housing possibly.lets hope not.you will have to call chrysler to see if available and how it comes.that shaft most likely has 2 bearings and 2 cups frt and rr of shaft.the shaft is most likely hardened,so only the bearings will wear out.
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This message has been edited by catfish on 09-21-2010 at 10:17 PM

BradleyG


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posted 09-22-2010 12:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for BradleyG     send a private message to BradleyG   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BradleyG
I have it up on the jack stands. Plug # 15 is the one. It takes a 3/8 drive ratchet to remove it. My oil level is about 1/4 inch from the top of the fill hole and it is clear with NO unusual smell. I don't think low oil is my problem.

My noise does not sound like a bad bearing, but it is more of a knocking noise. Not raspy as metal rubbing to metal. I can hear it all along the drive shaft, but louder at the transmission end. I can see a slight vibration at the rear of the drive shaft as it rotates.. Could it get bent with just driving it hard?? Can the drive shaft be removed by taking out the bolts (Front and rear) connecting it to the rubber coupler? BUT.. If I were to get the drive shaft out, I don't know what to do then.

I am not equipped to pull the transmission, and my life is in too much of a turmoil to be able to take it to my local Prowler professional for repair right now. I'll leave it on the jack stands for a few days in hopes someone knows of a magic pill I can insert into it's bowels. It's easier to get to with the rear end in the air.
Thank you all for the thoughts and information. I'll keep you posted as I am able to get it repaired. Brad..

outagas


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posted 09-22-2010 02:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for outagas     send a private message to outagas   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by outagas
could be loose torque converter bolts. They will rattle when they come loose. Hope that's not the problem though. Good Luck
Howard


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posted 09-22-2010 06:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Howard     send a private message to Howard   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Howard
Could it be your drive shaft? When I had a noise coming from the same area they replaced the drive shaft. They told me something was loose inside. It solved the problem.
BradleyG


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posted 09-23-2010 02:41 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BradleyG     send a private message to BradleyG   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BradleyG
Howard, Thank you for the phone call. I sounds like it is the drive shaft. There is a needle bearing in the drive shaft and it is probably bad. We don't think the drive shaft can be removed without either removing the transmission or sliding the transmission back. Then, if it is the needle bearing, I'm hoping we can change that instead of replacing the whole drive shaft. Chrysler is proud of the drive shaft..And.. I haven't had a chance to see if one is available. P/N 4815777. $656.00

Does anyone know if the drive shaft can be removed without moving the transmission?? I may need to wait to get this repaired. I do not have the equipment to be moving/removing the transmission.

This message has been edited by BradleyG on 09-24-2010 at 10:56 AM

ALLEY CAT





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posted 09-23-2010 03:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ALLEY CAT     send a private message to ALLEY CAT   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ALLEY CAT
Good luck Brad,,,and keep us updated.
catfish




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posted 09-23-2010 04:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
you must move the complete transaxle assembly rearward to remove driveshaft/propeller shaft.

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David Veu Casovic




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posted 09-23-2010 08:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for David Veu Casovic     send a private message to David Veu Casovic   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by David Veu Casovic

Are we talking about the two propeller shafts and the U-Joints,five U-Joints, four bearing cups per U-Joint.

catfish




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posted 09-23-2010 08:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
dave i have the same parts cd.dont ask me why,the picture they show is actually from a jeep 4 wheel drive.if you double click on group 16,it will show you the actual prowler shaft.

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This message has been edited by catfish on 09-23-2010 at 08:28 PM

David Veu Casovic




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posted 09-23-2010 08:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for David Veu Casovic     send a private message to David Veu Casovic   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by David Veu Casovic

It looks like the drive shaft has two Flanges at each end, were do you have the Needle Bearings at???

catfish




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posted 09-23-2010 08:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
brad says there is a bearing,but i dont think so.its the rubber coupler that gos bad,we will know more when he gets his apart.

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BradleyG


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posted 01-01-2011 09:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BradleyG     send a private message to BradleyG   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BradleyG
We have it fixed. Here is the long version of the story: See the last line for the short version.

Normally, as I look for a cause to what is wrong. I suggest to look for the easiest solution first. ((This has once again proved to be the best path to finding the fix)). BUT.. I did not follow my own advice, wasted money and did not drive my Prowler for 3 months.

I asked for guidance here.. talked to a few of you, lay under the car while it was on jack stands and running in gear to pinpoint the area making the knocking noise. I concluded that the noise came from from the rear of the drive shaft as this is where I heard it the loudest. I used a rubber hose to listen with and determined the noise was not coming from the engine output shaft or the transmission input shaft, but from the drive shaft its self. It would have been pretty hard to put the hose against the drive shaft while it is spinning.. LOL.

Here is a hint of the where the noise was coming from.. Noise can travel down the full length of a shaft and make you believe it is knocking at the back door when it is actually knocking at the front door. Sooo. I decided that the only way to find the problem was to go ahead and remove the transmission back so that the drive shaft could be removed. I was convinced that the drive shaft was bad OR that the transmission input housing holds the problem. These items new are pretty expensive, so I began to look for good deals. I found a wrecking yard which specializes in Vipers to have two wrecked Prowlers for parts, so I bought a drive shaft and just for an "In case" I bought the transmission input housing for $550.00 total.. I saved a lot of money by purchasing the used parts.

So here I was.. Parts in hand and took the Prowler to the local Dodge dealer which has a Viper/Prowler technician. My instructions to him were to find the cause and let me know so we could decide what to do. With it on the rack, he could not determine where the noise came from either, so it is time to tear it down (At this point, I left to go to work). First to come off is the exhaust system. GOOD NEWS!! With the exhaust system removed, you can access the drive shaft front rubber coupler. He found the six bolts attaching the drive shaft to the transmission were loose. HE torqued them to specifications, put the exhaust back on and NO MORE KNOCKING NOISE!!! Did not have to do any more than that. Now, I have a good used drive shaft with rubber couplers and a transmission input housing for sale. $550.00 and I will pay the shipping within the 48 states.

I am back on the road and this is a good start to what will be a much better year than 2010 was. Thanks to you all for your support and words of encouragement during the last year and a half. Brad Grubbs

Bottom line is that the drive shaft rubber coupler bolts were loose on the front of the drive shaft.

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