posted 02-03-2011 03:49 PM                  

Thanks for the heads up

posted 02-03-2011 04:03 PM                  

However, as ED mentioned ... setting one's expectations accurately is important. I had a grill done by Custom Coatings in FL a loooong time ago, and they quit doing them because people "expected" one thing, due to much input from others, and then received something "less" than what they expected. A real shame, though ... as I absolutely LOVE my chrome factory grill that they did.

posted 02-03-2011 04:26 PM                  

inside door panels?

could you do a plenum?

posted 02-03-2011 04:29 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by Jim Evans:
I own a prowler so I am familiar... just got some 41 Willy's grilles in the mail today to do

Thanks for the heads up

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posted 02-03-2011 04:41 PM                  

I know a guy locally to me that started doing this type of process a couple of years ago but the finished chrome appearance was nowhere as nice as what I see in your photos.

He was doing some automotive under hood parts and found that the process he was doing did not stand up well in that environment. I have no idea which process he was doing or what brand etc...

posted 02-04-2011 10:19 AM                  

1 Inspection of the substrate.. if there are flaws in the fiberglass, metal, plastic.. .they will show up unless they are addressed.
2 A painted part in good condition no chips or deep scratches in the clear.
sand down to 800 or 1000 grit.. finish must have no orange peel, or imperfections.. they will show up if not smooth as a babies ass. Then basecoat is applied... basecoat either baked or air dry overnight.. the next day bake for 90 min at 140 degrees.. then let part cool to room temp 70 -80 degrees. After that the next part of the process begins.. all materials mixed with deionized water put in pressurized tanks... sensitizer is applied then rinsed with deionized water then silver is applied and rinsed with deionized water.. part is then blown dry with compressed air. the part will then sit for about half an hour at 90 degrees. Then the first coats of clear are applied... they dry for 5 min between coats.. then if color is to be applied the tinted color is applied... deepness of color depends on number of coats... example the red mask had 4 coats of tinted product... to make darket more coats. after desired color is achieved I let it dry at 90 degrees for 15 min.. then clear coat is applied... that is baked at 140 degrees for 60-90 min.. that will then sit overnight.. next day or whenever I then sand that with 800 grit paper till smooth. .then apply a high quality clear DC 4000 or House of Kolor clear.. then bake that let is sit overnight then hit that with 1500 grit paper and buff now its done

It is a time consuming process...cant be done quickly or it will fail..
Done this way there is no problems with adhesion to any surface or durability.

posted 02-04-2011 05:38 PM                  

I spoke with the guy that's selling the equipment and like Jim says, it is a very long tedious process but Oh, so worthwhile. Like Jim said, it's durability is just like a painted car with clear coat. The only thing is that if there is a deep scratch, etc., through the clear coat the whole panel needs to be re-painted.

Again, the prep work is the main part of the process as any imperfection will be seen.