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This topic was originally posted in this forum: Tires, Rims Discusssion
Author Topic:   RACE DECK TILES
cmblockhus
Prowler Junkie

Posts: 2509
From: Manteca, California 95337
Registered: APR 2001

posted 12-26-2004 10:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for cmblockhus     
Scott:

word of caution a few years ago I had a auto repair shop in Jamestown Ca. gets a little hot at time and had run schudle 40 pvc for air and in the summer months the pipes started to blow up on hot days shot slivers and chunks of plastic all over the place never hurt anyone but sure bandged loud and made a heck of a mess.

very nice pictures of your your project, deck looks really nice.

block-buster

------------------


Scot Stern
Prowler Junkie

Posts: 516
From: Escondido, CA
Registered: MAR 2001

posted 12-26-2004 10:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scot Stern     
Some Replies to your posts....

1. The saw is for the edges but I am having a hard time bringing myself to cutting 2 inch sections off of a 12 inch tile for the sides. I'll accept it, probably later today, and make the cuts. At $3 per square foot a 2 inch cuts seems somewhat wasteful. (I need almost 60 tiles cut)

2. The Schedule 40 PVC compressor lines have worked for me for the past 12 years in my garage but now you are the second person to bring this to my attention. I am worried about it now and I'll have to reconsider. I suppose that I could still use them in the cement as if one blows the damage would be limited but I am now worried about using it in the open. I don't know if you can join PVC to copper which I guess I could use in the open.

Thanks for the input,

The Old Man

Jim S
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Posts: 946
From: Oak View,Ca.
Registered: SEP 2000

posted 12-26-2004 12:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jim S     
Scot (and anyone else using PVC), SERIOUSLY reconsider the use of PVC for air lines. PVC is, without a doubt, an accident waiting to happen. There have been many cases of serious injuries caused by the use of PVC for air lines. I know a lot of people will say they have been using PVC for years with no problems (as you have)but it only takes one time to cause permanent damage. Most accidents happen as the pipe ages. Depending on how close the PVC connection to your air compressor is, the heat generated from the air compressor will quickly cause failure in this area, and the oil contaminates from the compressor will break down the PVC over time. It's really not a question of will it fail, it's a question of when will it fail. This is a quote from PW pipe, one of the larger manufacturers product cut sheet "WARNING: Do not use PVC pipe for pressurized air systems. Injury or death may result due to the cata-strophic nature of pipe failure should failure occur. Rapid expansion of compressed air could propel shards of plastic throughout the area." Here is a link to OSHA which hopefully helps to point out the dangers in the use of PVC for transportation of compressed air : http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html

Another problem is any exposure to sunlight as standard PVC is not UV resistant and will break down from sunlight exposure over time. Many accidents also occur from PVC run exposed along walls. Any accidental bumping or hitting of the PVC will cause it to fracture and rupture. The PVC becomes very brittle over time and fractures easily.

The most economical choice for most uses is copper, with soldered connections. No rust or internal corrosion problems as with steel pipe, easily installed and maintained. Copper is the choice for air lines in many industrial/commercial plants.

There is a plastic product available for use as air lines but it's name escapes me at the moment. We have done a couple of installations were it was the material specd out, but it was not cheap to buy, although easily installed.

Both my shop and garage are all plumbed with stainless steel tubing, only because we work with it all the time and I have been able to use the leftover materials from various jobs.

Remember that an air line is really nothing more than an air vessel, no different than the tank on your air compressor. Unlike water, which does not compress (at least in simplest terms) air does. When a water line breaks the energy is immediatly released and pressure drops right away. An air line however, no matter what material it is made of, is storing compressed energy. When it fails, it is like a small bomb waiting to go off, normally rupturing the line and potentially sending fragmets flying everywhere with no warning.

Sorry for the long winded reply, but this is a serious issue and should be of concern to anyone using PVC piping for airline use. Keep it for your water supply (as it was intended) and nothing more.

Jim


Jim S
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Posts: 946
From: Oak View,Ca.
Registered: SEP 2000

posted 12-26-2004 01:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jim S     
Scot, to take your question about the connection from PVC to copper. It can be done easily using a male connector (slip X male npt) on the PVC, and a female connector on the copper (female npt X slip). Just remember to sweat a piece of copper on the female connector prior to installing it on the pvc so you keep the heat away from the PVC pipe. If you do use this, you still need to secure the copper pipe after the connection to the PVC. The point of failure most likely will be somewhere around this connection, and if the copper is not secured it will launch itself pretty violently. If you keep the PVC underground, the safest way to deal with it would be to core the concrete and make the connection under the slab. In any case, hopefully the concrete was not poured directly around the PVC. It should be wrapped in foam to allow for some movement.

Another option would be the installation of a flush box in the slab with a removable cover to access the airline connection when you want to use it. This way it is hidden and out of the way when not in use.



cmblockhus
Prowler Junkie

Posts: 2509
From: Manteca, California 95337
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posted 12-26-2004 01:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cmblockhus     
I would also suggest using black pipe or you could just a real good quality rubber air line from like goodyear and secure it to the wall that is what the air hose is made for but it also will break down over time I did that in place of the pvc didnt have to be fancy just safe

curtis

This message has been edited by cmblockhus on 12-26-2004 at 01:32 PM

Gene
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Posts: 1256
From: St.Petersburg,Fl USA
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posted 12-26-2004 01:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Gene     
Once you get the floor looking so nice can you still use the space to work on cars such as using floor jacks,crepers and such?


Scot Stern
Prowler Junkie

Posts: 516
From: Escondido, CA
Registered: MAR 2001

posted 12-26-2004 03:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scot Stern     
In response....

This area that I am building is strictly for a wood shop / work area and is not connected to the garage. The garage is separate and houses three cars. This structure is at the back of my property and is 768 square feet (24 X 32).

As to the tiles, you can jack a car up on them, use a creeper, drive on them or do most anything as the strength is rated at 3,200 per square inch and they are not affected by gasoline etc. They are used in industrial applications.

I am going to use copper pipe for the air lines on all areas that are exposed. I will continue to use the the PVC that is already installed in the cement as it leads to the middle of the room and there an island planed for that section which would be covered by the bench . It would not be practical to saw cut the cement at this point and if the pipe should rupture it would be contained by the wall and the cement. Not the best solution but at least it would be relatively safe.

I am glad I learned from the board about the PVC issues as I would have plumbed the rest of the connections utilizing schedule 40 if it had not been brought to my attention.

Thanks,

The Old Man

Larry Lord
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Posts: 3709
From: Colton, CA
Registered: JUL 2000

posted 12-26-2004 03:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Larry Lord     
Scott,
Something to keep in mind before you cut the tiles.
Don't trim the edges but instead cut the tile nearer the center. This way you will have a right and left piece to use at each side of the garage.


Scot Stern
Prowler Junkie

Posts: 516
From: Escondido, CA
Registered: MAR 2001

posted 12-29-2004 09:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scot Stern     
I'll post a new picture tomorrow but.....

Today, I finished the floor, all 768 square feet of it. Several comments which are as follows:

Tiles come packaged as 4 square feet which helps if you are doing a multi-colored scheme that uses a 4 square foot pattern. Mine did, so it was somewhat easier to install.

The packaging could have been better. They use recycled cardboard and I don't think that it is sturdy enough for UPS's animals. Several of the tiles had a slight amount of "flattening" on the corners where the boxes had been damaged. On a motorcycle doing 60 MPH no one would notice but at $3.00 per square foot it is somewhat annoying.

They are easy to install if you use a rubber mallet and you are careful about alignment. If not, you have a tendency to "dent" the adjacent tile with the male peg. Again, at 60 MPH you would not notice but alignment is important.

No too bad to cut although, I only cut one so far as I needed a 3" and 1" hole for the saw dust collection pipe and the compressor line. I used a jig saw and it seemed to work OK. I still need to cut the last end pieces and I'll need about 52 of them so I have some cuts to make. It is my understanding that table saw works well for this so I'll let you know the outcome.

A little strange to walk on as it is clearly "floating" on the cement and it does give a little bit of a strange feel. I am sure that I'll get used to it and it is something that I only mention in passing.

The fastening system is first class and the hooks are positive and tight. This part I am truly impressed with it in terms of structural integrity.

All in all, a good look at a price that some might consider to be a bit expensive. I am certain that when and if I ever sell this house this shop will give the new owner pause as it is really first class.

Pictures to follow.

The Old Man


Scot Stern
Prowler Junkie

Posts: 516
From: Escondido, CA
Registered: MAR 2001

posted 01-09-2005 05:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scot Stern     
Almost finished!

Still needs color coat on the outside and cabinets on the inside but I am making progress. The floor turned out great!

The Old Man


This message has been edited by Scot Stern on 01-09-2005 at 05:51 PM

pumpkin
Prowler Junkie

Posts: 7907
From: Las Cruces, NM, USA
Registered: DEC 2001

posted 01-09-2005 05:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for pumpkin     
Scot, very, very nice, lot of work.


RBADKAT
Prowler Junkie

Posts: 583
From: Green Valley, Arizona, USA
Registered: SEP 2000

posted 01-09-2005 10:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RBADKAT     

Scott,
Looks Great.
Nice job.
Dan.


Erika at Garagestyle
Prowler Enthusiast

Posts: 4
From: Springville, UT USA
Registered: DEC 2004

posted 01-10-2005 06:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Erika at Garagestyle     
You make me proud! The floor looks great Scot. And for all you who posted along the process, thanks for the feedback. I love to hear what customers think about the Racedeck -- the pro's and con's.
ERIKA


Richard Jackson
Prowler Junkie

Posts: 1417
From: Fairfield, Ohio
Registered: JUL 2000

posted 04-29-2005 03:41 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Richard Jackson     
Erica, what is the current price? Any promotions?


Erika at Garagestyle
Prowler Enthusiast

Posts: 4
From: Springville, UT USA
Registered: DEC 2004

posted 04-29-2005 05:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Erika at Garagestyle     
I have to list the RaceDeck at retail online at my site -- that's the Snaplock "rule" to keep all us cut-throat distributors in line.

But I'd be happy to run a discount price for you. I'll email you personally. Thanks for your interest!

St0rmBr1nger
Prowler Junkie

Posts: 307
From: san diego
Registered: OCT 2004

posted 04-29-2005 09:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for St0rmBr1nger     
768sqf of ground level space, =310,000$ just for improved land where I live. Factor in a few feet on each side and the building and holy cash signs thats a expensive garage. Makes the race tiles look cheap by comparison.

I got to get out of california, if I could have a garage like that and the space to park some more toys I could be car poor instead of house poor.

Looks great guys, since I am cleaning my parents garage this weekend to do some epoxy coating I needed some insperation and the pictures are great. I might have to do that vinyl floor checker pattern on the side garage. The cobra used to leak like a sive and has stained the foor almost black in a good chunk of that side of the garage.

Prowl 36
Prowler Junkie

Posts: 1088
From: Palm Bay, Florida, US
Registered: APR 2005

posted 05-01-2005 12:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Prowl 36     

Text
Hey Storm I have a home for sale in Florida 550k Has a boat dock and is on freshwater creek that goes out into the Indian River which leads out into the ocean. It is private and secluded and well worth the money. If anybody may be interested let me know. It made it through three major hurricanes last year without any type of incidence.




Prowl 36
Prowler Junkie

Posts: 1088
From: Palm Bay, Florida, US
Registered: APR 2005

posted 05-01-2005 12:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Prowl 36     
Storm, Just wanted you to know that all of the land you see in the pictures is included in the property.
Rick


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