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garage floor sealer recommendations? (Page 2)
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ProwlerOnline, Plymouth/Chrysler Prowler Discussion Forum
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garage floor sealer recommendations? (Page 2)
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| This topic is 2 pages long: 1 2 This topic was originally posted in this forum: Tires, Rims Discusssion |
| Author | Topic: garage floor sealer recommendations? |
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lavka Prowler Junkie Posts: 884 |
posted 03-31-2003 07:26 PM
The new garage is coming along. The form is up and footing will be poured this week, slab next week. I plan to seal the concrete before the first car ever rolls into the garage. I'm hunting for info on concrete sealers that make oil drips bead so they can be wiped off. Has anybody used anything good? I've seen the granite look stuff and don't like it. Has anybody tried "U Coat it?" www.ucoatit.com How about Musclegloss http://www.musclegloss.com This message has been edited by lavka on 03-31-2003 at 08:29 PM |
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WildCat Prowler Junkie Posts: 6862 |
posted 03-31-2003 08:34 PM
Depending on the size of your garage you might be able to get local contractor to come in an epoxy seal your garage for about the same cost as buying Ucoat product. I checked price on both and ucoat was going to cost me about $1,000 and to have done $1,400 Before you can have epoxy coating done the concrete needs to cure. This would also be benefit from being done over do it yourself. They will tell you when it is OK and garranty the work With a properly installed epoxy coating you should be able to wipe up any spill on the floor easily. ------------------
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MIKE GATLIN Prowler Junkie Posts: 4307 |
posted 03-31-2003 08:54 PM
You should make a decision before doing anything. Many floor finishes don't want any kind of sealer, waterproofer or other protectants applied before the specialty finish. Even several epoxy finishes want clean unprotected concrete for best results. |
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Jim S Prowler Junkie Posts: 946 |
posted 03-31-2003 09:34 PM
Tom, I have used many different sealers for commercial and industrial applications. There are many things to consider when doing this. Are you after just a concrete sealer or are you after an epoxy paint? There are many good choices for both of these. The cost is also a big consideration. If you are after something that will last, and something you will be happy with, be prepared to spend some money. The good, industrial fininshes will last a long time, the cheap homeowner stuff won't. If you are after just a clear sealer there are several choices. Some need to be applied as the concrete is curing, others get applied after the concrete has cured. Normally a minimum of 30-45 days as concrete off gasses during the cure cycle (as opposed to Gary C who continually off gasses). If you want some recommendations, let me know exactly what you have in mind, clear or painted and I will get you the info. You can also call White Cap, they have a store in San Diego (858-560-9933) and they should be able to help you out. One thing to keep in mind with whatever you choose, the preparation is the key. I have worked on may different sites with coating failures because no one wanted to spend the time or money on the prep work. |
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lavka Prowler Junkie Posts: 884 |
posted 04-01-2003 09:52 AM
Thanks all. I should check on a professional install cost. Do it yourself "U Coat it" will run me $1600 and musclegloss is $1400. I did not think of checking Whitecap...better do that. What I am looking for ( I think) is a medium blue epoxy coating with high gloss.
This message has been edited by lavka on 04-01-2003 at 09:54 AM |
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SuperKat Prowler Junkie Posts: 2221 |
posted 04-01-2003 11:52 AM
Above all else, get a vapor barrier placed under that slab BEFORE you pour the concrete. Your options for floor coverings will be unlimited if you do that one thing. Gordon Karns AIA |
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ALLEY CAT Prowler Junkie Posts: 36093 |
posted 04-01-2003 07:13 PM
lavka - now that you have all the serious replies above, I'll tell you the mixture I used to produce the best floor results: 5 gallons of Creme of Wheat 3 gallons of Medium Salsa 2 lbs of teased and shaved Alley Cat back hair 3/4 lbs of old belly button lint - you can substitute with 1 lb of under the bed dust bunnies mix together and let set for six hours and then apply to floor. Dan Garcia and I have used this treatment with great success! |
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Jim S Prowler Junkie Posts: 946 |
posted 04-01-2003 10:18 PM
Tom, If you go with a professional, you need to still make sure the prep is done right. Normally, for an epoxy finish like you want, the floor needs to abraded in order for good adhesion. We usually rent a portable shot blast machine to do this, which uses steel shot as a medium. Not nearly as messy as sandblasting, and you use a magnetic sweep to pick the spent shot up. Only other thing to be aware of is, if you are after a high gloss finish, the floor has a potential to be very slippery when wet. Not to sure about the tile, but I don't think you would have any problems with them. As long as you do not allow liquids or oils to set for a long time. |
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