posted 03-21-2002 06:09 PM         

I would like to ask all purchasers of the FMB Upright Trailer Stands to please answer a few questions and to also post their comments, Good or Bad about their experience with the stands. Please be honest.

1. Were the directions clear and easy to understand?
2. Was it easy to install and use?
3. Was it shipped quickly and was the packaging sufficient?
4. What if any changes would you like to see in future models?
5. Do you consider your stand a good value for the money?

Please feel free to post any comments about the stand.
Good, Bad, Easy, Hard, problems with install, shipping delays, confusing directions or any other item you may have encountered with your purchase or stand.

Your input will help to make the next production run even better than the first.

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I saw a post that Jay made about his new muffler and I think he has a great idea about end user and testing comments. Thanks Shimmer Jay for your excellent marketing and developement idea!

posted 03-21-2002 06:20 PM         

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WHAT ELSE!!!!!

posted 03-21-2002 06:47 PM         

Also the end caps suc- every time I take them off the little tip brace slides down and then they fall off need something different at the end. I glue mine and so far so good.Its the little things that ????. it is a good investment.

posted 03-21-2002 08:30 PM         

Please send me an e-mail regarding the plastic caps.
There should be no reason for the caps to ever come off.
Are you trying to slide the tip stops over them?
If so, that's wrong!
Slide the tip stops off the other end of the tube when you remove the roll back bars to use the trailer.

Has anyone else had a problem with the plastic caps?

The stand was not designed to be skidded sideways when the trailer is upright but adding an extra bolt or using a small c-clamp or vise-grip will cure this weakness for those that need to slide theirs sideways.
I didn't put a second hole in because I felt most people would prefer to use existing holes and not want to drill any extra holes. It's easy enough to add another hole to the brackets. Consider it done on the next batch!

Thanks for you comments.

Thanks for the link Dan. You Da Man!

posted 03-22-2002 06:08 AM         

i sent a message
i did not mean to nock the stands at all i would not do with out one. the trailer was a big room taker upper and always in the way i was always putting things on top of it. now it is out of the way safe and sound. so to all that have a trailer buy a set and you will not be sorry.

john

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WHAT ELSE!!!!!

posted 03-22-2002 09:32 AM         

Also, I store heavy items in my trailer now, (two eazy-up tents, chairs, etc), and I suspect these items may be too heavy for the trailer when in vertical position. So any comments on that would be appreciated also.

Thanks,,

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See me WAX a Roush
See me WAX a Cobra

posted 03-22-2002 09:52 AM         

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posted 03-22-2002 11:48 AM         

John,
The weight should be no problema at all. My prototype stand was much lighter weight tubing than the present stands and it worked very well. I added 50% to the wall thickness when I made the production run of stands.

Paul,
Casters are a great idea but have some drawbacks.
The most serious of these is that casters will cause problems while tipping the trailer into the upright position. If casters are used, it will no longer be a one man operation due to the following; when tipping the trailer the weight rolls back onto the tubes, allowing you to then push up on the tongue to stand the trailer up. A second person would be needed to keep you from having to "chase" your trailer across the floor. The solution to the caster situation is to place them under the tubes after the trailer is upright. Again, this now becomes quite a job for even two men.

If anyone feels the need to add another bolt to their stand. Any size will do.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions and comments.

An easier solution to the need of some people to slide their trailer sideways is just a piece of PVC tubing place over the rollback tubes where they meet the floor. This tube may rotate around the rollback tube when you push the trailer sideways or will at least slide easily across the floor. Thanks Prowler-Keith for this idea! This is about a $3.00 cost compared to much more for a caster set.

Al,
The scuffing of the rollback tube was expected. The only time the tube is installed is when the trailer is upright and the scuffed area is on the floor. A simple no cost solution to scuffing would be to just place a piece of used carpet under the rollback tubes if you feel it is needed. Some of the SoCal guys have even chromed their rollback tubes.
Don't forget! The pictures you saw were of my trailer that I use for demonstrations everywhere I go. My trailer has had more ups and downs than a ______ in a _____ house.

posted 03-22-2002 01:01 PM         

I was referring to any damage to the actual trailer with all that weight dropping down to the latch inside. I will figure out something.

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See me WAX a Roush
See me WAX a Cobra

posted 03-22-2002 05:17 PM         

Maybe I worry to much on that. I will have to get it out and just try it I guess. Maybe pack it tighter so they wont roam around when stood up.

Thanks for your input.

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See me WAX a Roush
See me WAX a Cobra

posted 03-22-2002 06:04 PM         

DO NOT TRY AND STAND IT UP WITH EZ UP CANOPY IN THE TRAILER or anything else that is heavy. I'm sure the stand would hold the weight and the latch would hold up. But that thing is HEAVY. I have one and carry it all the time. I have scratched the inside of my trailers fiberglass lid just hauling it.
In my opinion the trailer would be damaged every time the trailer was raised up with these items inside. Everything inside will end up at the back of the trailer. Plus the EZ-UP will come off the floor or the trailer when it is lifted and might make the balance off center as Larry has designed.

I didn't think I would get one but now I think might be good. I will not store anything inside when I stand it up unless I put cargo net inside to hold the stuff. But the EZ-UP will never be in it.

Larry on the extra holes. Since the holes will have to line up and the trailer will need a hole also, wouldn't it be better if they just drilled it themselves with the stand installed or you will need to supply templete as to where the hole should be drilled at.

For those that need to scoot the trailer in upright position, I would get a piece of vinyl flooring and place under the stand and slide it on it.

One other use for the stand is banner display or flags at car show or parades and you would not want it all scratched up, WOULD YOU?

Larry I think it is a great idea and will help store a bulky but VERY COOL piece of Prowler equipment. Also you starting this thread proves you want feedback to improve on an already good product.

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Larry & Sue Mayes

posted 03-22-2002 08:46 PM         

I had forgotten until just now that in my original packaging plans I was going to place a length of roll bar padding over each of the rollback tubes to eliminate any scratching during shipping. Due to cost and shipping size factors, I opted not to do so.

Roll bar padding is available (use 1.5" I.D.) at almost any speed shop or racer supply shop near you. Normally sold in 36" lengths for about $6.00 - $8.00 per length, it is easily cut and one length would make two 18" or four 9" pieces that you could the position over your rollback tubes. I sell the pads for $7.95 at my shop but due to shipping costs, I would suggest that you purchase them locally. These pads can also be used to prevent scratches to the tubes during storage inside your trailer while towing.

The only caution that I would give is to not store any liquids in your trailer while in storage.