posted 12-27-2002 11:01 AM         

I have had my Car hauler for 4 years and have seen several others. THE 1ST THING TO THINK ABOUT before buying anything is what you plan on doing with it. and the gross vehicle weight truck, trailer & cargo all has to be concidered.

I'm not sure what the GVW on the 1/2 ton ram 4 door with Hemi. It has the power to pull it but the SAFETY & the
brakes and legal GVW must be concidered, IS THE TRUCK BIG ENOUGH FOR YOUR NEEDS?, I do not want anyone to have a truck and trailer combo going to an event and get in mountains without enough brakes to stop going down MT. EAGLE

Add the weight of the truck plus the Prowler EST 2,900 lbs then the weight of the trailer and stuff 500 lbs, then (my enclosed 24' 3,500) right at 7,000 lbs to be towed.

I bought a 24' enclosed with 10,000 cap. Not that I will ever need it but it was only $175 more for the heavier axles and would be right at the max. limit with 7,000 lbs. A 24' will allow the Prowler with the Prowler trailer hooked to it to be driven into the trailer. The access door on the left side is nice but not completely necessary (I get my fat body in and out with out it, but I leave the top down in the trailer). The best tie downs are the ones that are tracks in the floor that allow easy adjustment to sercure the car. The new trailers have a new LED light package, I would STRONGLY recommend it. Right side door with inside latch to open also recommended. Inside lights and vents, yes get them and put covers over the vents so they can be left open all the time and it will not rain in.

A dove tail on enclosed car hauler should be a standard option. The distance between the ramp door and the trailer floor very from manufacturer. Mine is too far not to have a filler, so I bought the flip down aluminum piece like on Wells Cargo ramp door to use between door and floor.

Trailers might look the same going down the road but there is a BIG difference in them Get the one that will last and do the job you want the 1st time. I paid $6,000 for mine and wish I had spent a little more and got what I wanted instead of what he had.

As Far as a truck I have a `95 Dodge 3/4 ton 4X4 with cummins diesel (I know those that went to SD might think it was slow, and it was, that is fixed and it RUNS NOW) I have towing cap of about 12,000 lbs.

Sorry this is long but there is alot to think about before buying that truck or trailer. Do some research before so you get what works for you.

this works for me

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Larry & Sue Mayes

posted 12-27-2002 11:33 AM         

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Current mods: Mopar dual exhaust & front mudflaps; MacMotorsports Air Intake;
Real Rod Air Patrol; Graphics by Balistek Designs; ($8) Chrome grille; Chrome
tire valve-stem covers; Painted rear bumper lettering; Prowler Pro Gears; Synthetic
Oil; Raybestos Ceramic Brake Pads; TGF Door Panel Inserts & Headrest Covers;
SheepskinExpress Sheepskin Seatcovers; Grille Light; Pinstriping by Bo Boring;
Painted Valve Cover; Window Tinting; Windshield Visor Banner; Front Bumper
Removal / Relocation of Front Turn Signal Lights; Real Rod Transmission Cooler
Cover, Sill and Carper Covers, Aero Front Covers and Roadster Rear Pan and
rear bumpers removed.
More 'Pumpkin' photos . . . . . More cars and other stuff

thanks for the info. you covered all areas ..just to remind everyone go with the diesel motor if you can.....

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davidn

posted 12-27-2002 02:27 PM         

You must have been reading my mind Nice setup by the way. I have been considering a set up like this in the future & have been getting many opinions but not the facts... Every salesmen is just that... Salesmen first & all they want to do is sell you what they have instead of what is best... I have had my eye on the Dodge truck with the V10 Viper engine I'll call it my "Crouching Prowler - Hidden Viper" setup... I hope it covers all of the towing requirements I'll need...

What brand of trailer do you recommend? What is the best way to insure it? Do you haul the WildCat trailer with cargo in it or empty? Obviously you leave the trailer connected to the Kat while it is in transport... I was talking to a Jeep salesmen who told me that a Jeep Liberty has one of the highest towing capacities out there... Sounded like a bunch of BS, but even if it did... Isn't that little thing just a little too light to pull a trailer like yours? I mean wouldn't just get tossed around like a rag-doll when a semi came roaring by? Forget about stopping down MT. EAGAL I don't think it would be able to make it up it...

Fixumm... How does a Hummer pull & how is it's gas mileage???

Thank you again for all of the great information on the post. I didn't think it was that long

WildBill

posted 12-27-2002 03:58 PM         

the gas mileage on a liberty sucks to start with and it might have the best towing for it's class but that would be less than 3,500 lbs I would think. No way would it pull an enclosed car hauler.

On the V10 over the diesel, MILEAGE, the diesel is an EXPENSIVE option but if you plan on driving this vehicle alot it is well worth it. I got 20 MPG driving the truck to florida @ 70~75 MPH and 12.3 pulling the trailer to SD, the truck was in need of fine tuning and it has it now but have not pulled the trailer since, so not sure on mileage. From what I've heard the V 10 gets 14~16 best and then towing well hope you pass a few gas stations before having to stop.

Maintenance on the diesel will be higher too, but the engine will last 500,000 miles easy if maintained and your resale is higher with the diesel

When I pull my cat sometimes the prowler trailer is connected to the car & sometimes not. When I showed the car I always wanted to pull the car and trailer out as a unit (thought it looked cool) so I would push the trailer in backwards and then back the car in and connect them back together. Most of the time now I pull the trailer in and strap it down to the winch mount in the front and then pull the car in behind it. This way when we stop somewhere and I want to drive the car I do not have to mess with the trailer.

I do leave the prowler trailer with all contents in it when I have it loaded in the hauler.

All new trailers have to have brakes, it might be optional to have both axles with brakes.

When you have trailer brakes on all bigger trailers you have to install a brake controler in the cab of the truck and on any larger trailer the hitch is very important and a distibuting hitch is a must for the ride and safe handling of the vehicle.

The mirrors must also be concidered. With a trailer that is 8.5 feet wide it will be wider than the truck and you MUST have trailering mirrors that extend out from the truck or add cheap extentions to existing mirrors (that really do little good).

WHAT I REALLY WANT IN A TRUCK is a R/T Dakota 2 wheel drive , 5 speed extended cab, but I cannot pull the trailer so I have a bigger truck than I want, but I need for pulling needs.

The other option is an open trailer that requires less truck to pull but then the car is dirty when you get to where you are going and subject to the theives and weather to be damaged.

as far as the best trailer...it all depends on your needs and what you are willing to pay. Featherlite $$$$$ all aluminum would be the lightest but still strong and one of the most pricey...Wells Cargo $$$$...very nice trailer and wish I had one...Tom Mills has one of the nices I've seen....Mine is a Cargo Express $$$....good quality built to last but does not have some of the features the Wells Cargo has that make it a better rig....Haulmark $$ ...entry level cover it and haul it trailer, it does the job but one of the cheaper trailers in construction

posted 12-27-2002 09:09 PM         

I did check it out before buying. Thanks for the trailer info

Here are the ratings on my 1500 Quad Cab with 4 X 2 Short WB, Automatic 5 Speed w / 20 inch tires, 5.7L V8 and 3.92 axle ratio.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) 6650 lbs
Payload = 1570 lbs
Curb Weight = 5081 lbs
Curb Weight Front/Rear = 2884/2197 lbs
GAWR Front/Rear 3650/3900 ilbs
Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR) = 13000 lbs

posted 12-27-2002 10:02 PM         

Before

After

posted 12-28-2002 01:39 AM         

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posted 12-28-2002 08:18 AM         

I have decided to post my 2cents here because I have gotten a few e-mails about my rig

first my truck is a 2001 Dodge Ram 4x4 quad cab 8 foot bed
has 4 spd auto with 3.55 gears (4:10 would have been better but and 3:72 would be about perfect.)
truck has HD suspension and 16" 285 tires
is equiped with an electonic progressive brake controler
engine is 235hp cummins and yes despite what Gene and Darcy thought coming back from Looneyville it is stock
Truck has 8,800 weight rating
HERE is an important feature...Truck has 4 wheel disc brakes, this makes a big difference
I have a 32' enclosed trailer with extended front tounge,
10,000 gvw and tandem axles, and I had the roof rasied 6" from standard for more head clearence at door openings.

loaded with both of my cats and gear 2 people and full tank of fuel the whole rig weighed in at 19,760 pounds

when we went to skyline I was running avg 70 mph and got 11.2 mpg.

I run with a reese dual cam sway control weight distributing hitch with 1,000 pound bars.

It is very important to set this up correctly so you do not over load your front axle.
when ever I load some ting new for the first time I always weight at a truck stop to check my axle weights.
This is important as it can GROSSLY affect the handling of rig

the truck would have been slower in bigger hills, but I choose those gears because I do alot of traveling with out the trailer.

I am ordering a new truck as we speak so my current truck is now for sale
has only 53,000 miles on it

and yes I am ordering another dodge with the 300 hp diesel

I hope some of this info answers some questions some of you have asked me

Happy New Year

I tried to post a picture of truck and trailer but can not seem to do it,any one want to help I would be gratefull or if you want to see it I can e-mailit to you

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Mike Venezia "KATATAK"
2001 Orange
Dead Stock except for:
Rear Shimmers
Mopar Exhaust
Ceramic Brake Pads

posted 12-28-2002 10:28 AM         

Some very valid points here,,, so many people don't worry about the 5% of the life of the vehicle when you are towing,to me it should be the most important, JMO...

We tend to forget about the tranny service, to me it's more important than the engine oil change, I service my tranny every 10,000 miles, very cheap insurance, especially when you are on the road towing and pop a tranny, very costly and also you are at the mercy of some local tranny guy you will never see again after spending 3 or 4k on a tranny half @$$ done...

I have learned the hard way, so this is what I do, NEVER TOW in overdrive, Never drive your truck or car around town in overdrive, towing or not,,,,,AND ALWAYS service the tranny every 10,000 miles towing or not. Stop and go is very hard on the tranny and the temps go to the moon, I have two temp guages on my tranny, one off the fluid off of the TC and the other is the fluid in the pan. Around town(not towing) the tranny temps are higher than towing on the highway.

So, please go out to your trusty vehicle, pull that dipstick out and check the color of your fluid, if it has changed of color, change it,,,Find a place that does a flush and not a drain and fill cause there is still old fluid in the torque convertor

Check all your vehicles, you will be surprised that the fluid in your Kat is toast,,,,

posted 12-28-2002 10:29 AM         

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GaryC@ProwlerOnline.com
Prowler Products by GaryE, formally Carlini

posted 01-07-2003 03:01 PM         

Larry & Rich, Mike - thank you for the very helpful information & the time. Larry - those mirrors are really cool. I like the fact that you can fold them away instead of having strap-ons or bolted aftermarket mirrors that always look pretty ridiculous whether you are hauling or not... Your mirrors look good either way.

Looks like I have a lot of research things to consider... RPL Thank you also for your help in this matter.