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  Front Plate Mount-Better, Faster, Cheaper (Free!) (Page 1)

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Author Topic:   Front Plate Mount-Better, Faster, Cheaper (Free!)
GRROWL


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posted 03-10-2002 10:27 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for GRROWL     send a private message to GRROWL   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by GRROWL
This is my first post, so be kind.

GRROWL is a 2000 Yellow Prowler. I have benefitted from the online discussion boards from day one (June 2000) and figured it's time to give something back.

It always bothered me that they drilled into the bumper to mount the front plate, so at least there was some benefit when (out in left field at Office Depot, away from all other cars) some kid zipping around in a BMW snagged the bumper from behind and folded it into the grill. Those front bumpers really collapse when hit from behind.

Soooo, while I was waiting for the new bumper to arrive, I did a post-mortem on the old one. Being off of the car and upside down on the workbench, it sure seems that Plymouth designed the bumper to take a front license plate mount the way I will describe below.

Came back to edit and add a picture:

But first, a plug - and a thank you. As I said, I have benefited from this board in the past and ordered a new replacement bumper at a SUBSTANTIAL savings - THANKS, ALLEY CAT - those guys at John Youngblood Motors are phenomenal - and to get Mopar parts at such a discount is unheard of. Anyone interested should do a search for "cheap parts" posted by Alley Cat (by way of coincidence, my wife's pet cat is named Alley Cat).

Back to the subject:

Under the bumper, there is a recess approximately 1/2" deep and 1" wide with a row of pop rivets. The rivets attach 2 layers of plastic (front and back of bumper shell) to an aluminum box-beam. The location of the plate looked best (at least to me and to my wife - she's not particularly fond of GRROWL, and I'm not particularly fond of Alley Cat - her pet, not the POA member) centered under the directional signal. Coincidentally, two rivets are equally spaced from the centerline of the signal with matching holes on the top of the box beam, which is EASILY accessible by removing the directional signal (2 screws as if you were replacing the bulb).

This is a CHEAP, GOOD and NO COMPROMISE solution. I believe that the end result is PERFECT (providing, of course, that the law requires you to have a front plate to start with).

I dug the following out of my scrap box:

1 pc - 1" x 2" aluminum angle, 9" long
2 pc - 1/4" x 1-1/2" hex bolt
2 pc - 1/4" acorn lock nuts

This is really starting to sound much more complicated than it is. This is a 15-minute job requiring only an electric drill with a 1/4" bit and a portable belt sander or grinder. Here's the procedure:

----------------------

1. Drill out the 2 pop rivets below the directional signal (all drilling is with a 1/4" bit).

2. Remove the directional signal as if you were replacing the bulb, just let it hang. Drop in 2 bolts (1/4" x 1-1/2") down through the holes you will find behind the signal and out through the pop-rivet holes.

3. Find a piece of 9" long 1" x 2" angle in your choice of materials. Contour the 1" edge to match the front curve of the groove under the bumper (the 2" face will then be hanging down at the rear.

4. Center the bracket below the light opening, drill 2 holes to match the new bolts (should be 5" apart, but check), and bolt on.

5. Drill 2 holes, 1/4", 7" apart, and bolt on the license plate.

6. Re-install the signal.

Done!

---------------------

Additional (overly complicated) points:

A. No metal-working-specific tools were used in the production of this bracket. The portable belt sander worked well with an emory belt to contour the aluminum angle (which was 1/8" thick, by the way), round all of the corners, and ease the edges. I also used it to sand the faces to produce a "brushed" finish.

B. You could just as well use stainless steel angle (if you can find it); plastic angle; or bend sheet-metal of your choice. You could also attach with pop-rivets (skip steps 2 and 6) or screw into the pop-rivet holes with 5/16" self-tapping screws. Again, this is over-complicating the issue for such an easy (and good) fix.

C. You probably want to stiffen up the plate - I used a clear cover that did the job nicely. You could also use a backer, either the original mount, sheet-metal, plastic or whatever.

I thought of taking pictures, but:

1. I'm new at this, this is my first posting, and this could come later if requested.
2. My wife has my digital camera in FL for the week (watch out, Alley Cat - I'm the Alpha Cat this week).
3. I'm not sure you would see anything since everything is recessed so well.

Interested in hearing any reactions.

Thanks, Prowler Online.

This message has been edited by GRROWL on 07-04-2003 at 11:58 AM

KenG


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posted 03-10-2002 10:37 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for KenG     send a private message to KenG   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by KenG
Sounds like a GREAT option. Certainly a lot less than the 90.00 I paid for a piece of plastic. It's amazing what you can figure out when you take something apart. You better patent this fast or AC will do it and want royalties!

------------------
Ken Gensheimer
1999 Yellow
Plate: 1 HOT KAT
Blue Eyes, Color Coordinated Bumpers, Prowler Pro Gears (Zoom, zoom, zoom), MAC Air Intake and Sport Exhaust, Chrome dash rings, Chrome radiator cover, Chrome hood prop, Chrome struts, Polished stainless cross braces, Polished rear frame, Braided front lines, Line lock, Painted calipers, Ceramic Pads, Lollypop Red Shimmers, Real Rod front plate holder, Chrome license plate bracket (rear)....Stay tuned for more!

Laddie Roussel





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posted 03-10-2002 11:14 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Laddie Roussel     send a private message to Laddie Roussel   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Laddie Roussel
Welcome to the POA GRROWL...

------------------

Dave Mills





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posted 03-10-2002 11:34 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave Mills     send a private message to Dave Mills   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Dave Mills
Welcome GRROWL. We have no front plate in PA, so I never had to deal with that. Even if I had, I still would have removed the front bumpers. I don't think they do much good anyway.

------------------

Mopar(Plymouth Forever)Dave
1928 Plymouth Q
1951 Plymouth P-23 Club Coupe
1966 Plymouth Sport Fury Convertible
1975 Plymouth Duster
1999 Prowler

CWatsonJr


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posted 03-10-2002 02:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CWatsonJr     send a private message to CWatsonJr   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CWatsonJr
This is certainly the simplist and most cost effective way of handling the situation that I have heard of! Thanks for the great post and WELCOME .

BTW - KenG is right, AC is on his way back from California and as soon as he sees this he will want to copyright it - so beat him to the punch!!!! OH - and you better copyright both right and left handed models of it

------------------
Cliff Watson

Wayne Finch



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posted 03-10-2002 07:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Wayne Finch     send a private message to Wayne Finch   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Wayne Finch
..well detailed instructions. Sounds great. I've not put one on yet and probably will not until requested by the authorities, but this is what I would do. Brian King has also done the same thing

------------------
99 Black Stock Vanity Plate PROWLERR, Air Patrol, Luggage Rack
00 Woodward (#98 of 151 - Custom Two-tone Interior, Vanity Plate PPROWLER,
Matching Trailer (number & pinstriped) with SpeedLingerie Woodward Bra (pinstriped),
Chrome Headrest covers and tranny cooler cover, Shimmers all around

2002 CANDY RED Mods to come: TGF hardtop, spoiler, interior panels, Carlini roll pan,
chrome headrest, Borla exhaust, Tom Mills signal kit, shimmers, Vanity plate PROWLLER

99 Supercharged Shelby Durango
Lowered, 400 HP, Racing seats, Stillen 6 piston brakes. skirts, hoodscoop

BeWare





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posted 03-10-2002 08:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
Welcome Grrowl, thanks for the tip. GA does not require a front plate (lucky me). I am sure you have helped many others. Too bad some dealers drill the bumper and mount a dealer plate as soon as they get a Kat into inventory.

------------------

Paul

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posted 03-10-2002 11:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Paul     send a private message to Paul   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Paul
GRROWL have you actually built one of these recommended brackets and installed it? I look forward to your photos.

------------------

MeanGene



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posted 03-11-2002 08:23 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for MeanGene     send a private message to MeanGene   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by MeanGene
Welcome Grrowl,

Plan to road trip that Bad Boy( your car) to MD, we live about 20 miles from each other! I take pics for you and you can post them. Plan on the Louisville trip in May! We have a "cat-o-van" going there and would love to have you join us.

------------------

This message has been edited by MeanGene on 03-11-2002 at 10:09 AM

GRROWL


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posted 03-11-2002 05:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for GRROWL     send a private message to GRROWL   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by GRROWL
Paul -

Yes, I actually built this - went without a hitch (having the old one to tear apart certainly helped to plan what to do ahead of time).

If I had it to do over again, the only thing that I would do differently is make a paper pattern of the front contour and hole locations. I would especially suggest this if you are doing this with the bumper still on the car and working from below. I free-handed the curves until it fit. With a paper pattern, I would have just sanded (ground) to the line and the holes would have been easier to locate than using a scribe through the holes.

And to MeanGene:
Where do you live/work (or send a private message). I work on Aerospace Road near Goddard.

ALLEY CAT





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posted 03-14-2002 09:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ALLEY CAT     send a private message to ALLEY CAT   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ALLEY CAT
GRROWL - I'm honored to have your wife name her cat after me , hope he is a male cat!

Your idea looks painless to me, but since Az doesn't require a front plate and you did the leg work for me on this one () I'm going to let you have the patent rights. Of coarse, feel welcomed to cut me in for lets say 10% of the incoming royalities, and my lawyer Al Bendover can do the legal paperwork for you (us). My guys, Marty Usher and Prowler Keith, can handle the distribution for us, another plus for you. WELCOME TO THE POA, my new friend!

The name for this will be: GRROWL/AC Front License Plate Mounting System and carries the ALLEY CAT STAMP OF APPROVAL

The phone will be ringing soon!!

------------------


Call 911 - there is a Prowler in my garage....
Arizona - Home of the 2001 World Champions -
Arizona Diamondbacks

Kernel
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posted 03-16-2002 12:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Kernel     send a private message to Kernel   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Kernel
Ohio's "fix it" ticket is $80+ for no front plate. Ouch!
Three choices as I see it.
1. Carry front plate inside car and hope for the best.
2. Mount plate in a broken license plate frame and keep
inside car. Drill two holes in the underside of the
"Y" brace where it meets the back on the bumper box.
Screw in two worn, a little rusty, sheet metal screws
almost tight, same distance apart as license plate
holes. When the officer ask about the lack of a front
plate, "Sir, (Sir is always a good call at times like
this!) my wife (sorry Carol) just ran up against a
parking bumper at the mall. I'm headed home this minute
to repair it."
3. Mount the plate and a metal backer (novelty front plate
like you'd find at Auto Zone) in a cheap metal bracket
with all four holes bolted together. Bend approximately
the top one inch of the plate 90 degrees. Take common
sense precautions not to scratch the plate's finish.
Mount plate using its original holes, in the Y bracket
where it meets the bumper box, with sheet metal screws.
As its tucked under the bumper, the plate nearly goes
away except from oncoming (police) cars.



------------------
Bob & Carol Wheaton

jkburns


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posted 03-16-2002 04:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jkburns     send a private message to jkburns   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by jkburns
Kernel:
Outstanding! I vote for #1.

Kevin

Richard Jackson




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posted 03-16-2002 08:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Richard Jackson     send a private message to Richard Jackson   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Richard Jackson
I got the real rod frame holder and I love it. http://www.realrod.com/lbbm.htm

------------------
Richard Jackson

Ricky310


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posted 11-18-2003 08:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ricky310     send a private message to Ricky310   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Ricky310
Thanks Grrowl for the great advise on how to make the front plate bracket.I did everything you said.I went to Home Depot,bought a piece of 1" aluminum angle iron about 12"long,bolted that under the bumper, then bolted on the original plate bracket that came with the car.It's on there nice and strong and looks great.
Thanks again,
Rick
Ricky310


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posted 11-18-2003 08:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ricky310     send a private message to Ricky310   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Ricky310
Thanks Grrowl for the great advise on how to make the front plate bracket.I did everything you said.I went to Home Depot,bought a piece of 1" aluminum angle iron about 12"long,bolted that under the bumper, then bolted on the original plate bracket that came with the car.It's on there nice and strong and looks great.
Thanks again,
Rick
FreeorDie2


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posted 11-25-2003 09:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for FreeorDie2     send a private message to FreeorDie2   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by FreeorDie2
I need to fabricate the same kind of setup for a front plate, but I didn't have as much luck at our local Home Depot. I asked for aluminum angle iron and they showed me 8 foot bars of aluminum. I asked for angle brackets and all they could show me were items for holding up shelves. I would be grateful if someone could help me with the right words to say or a better place to find an aluminum angle bracket!!
GRROWL


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posted 11-25-2003 09:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for GRROWL     send a private message to GRROWL   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by GRROWL
quote:
Originally posted by FreeorDie2:
I need to fabricate the same kind of setup for a front plate, but I didn't have as much luck at our local Home Depot. I asked for aluminum angle iron and they showed me 8 foot bars of aluminum. I asked for angle brackets and all they could show me were items for holding up shelves. I would be grateful if someone could help me with the right words to say or a better place to find an aluminum angle bracket!!

Home Depot ain't what it used to be, but they usually have a vertical rack in the middle of the hardware aisle that has 3' and 6' lengths of threaded rod, smooth rod, angle iron and ANGLE ALUMINUM. If you talk to someone who knows what "angle iron" is, you just need it in aluminum. I'd say try again, Home Depot definitely has it, it's just hidden these days.

-GRROWL

ed monahan





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posted 11-25-2003 10:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
The bin is in the middle of a row, in the hardware dept. It is about 2 foot square and has about 30 different items in it. I have had a fit trying to find that stuff also. Every employee knows where it used to be, but they move it every week, apparently. I just bought some threaded rod last week. It is near the hinges, usually.

This message has been edited by ed monahan on 11-26-2003 at 01:53 AM

FreeorDie2


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posted 11-25-2003 10:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for FreeorDie2     send a private message to FreeorDie2   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by FreeorDie2
Thanks guys. . . I'll give it another try tomorrow. Part of the problem is definitely that I only think I know what I'm looking for, I don't really know what it looks like. I did ask two of the orange-aproned gentlemen and they both looked at me like I had two heads. I should have known there would be a problem -- I haven't been there in months and when I walked in, right in front of the entrance was a brand new huge display of kitchen appliances. It looked more like Best Buy than Home Depot.

Thanks again.

idive


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posted 11-25-2003 11:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for idive     send a private message to idive   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by idive
If you look into the end of the angle, it looks like an L. The verticle part is 2" high, the horizontal part is 1" long. Now, as you turn that L sideways, it looks like a 3D L about 9" deep. I'd draw ya one here if I could. (Is that clear as mud in trying to tell you what it looks like?) It's a piece of structural steel. Ask for a piece of aluminum angle 2" by 1" (2"x1"). They should know what that is.
figured out how to draw in paint... I hope this helps.

------------------
Mickey
1997 Plymouth Prowler #156
Custom car cover
Mopar front splash guards
Real Rod stainless steel transmission cooler cover
Mopar Trailer hitch and harness
Real Rod weekender
1992 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE
Longhorn scratches
Boomerschlobber

This message has been edited by idive on 11-25-2003 at 11:36 PM

FreeorDie2


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posted 11-25-2003 11:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for FreeorDie2     send a private message to FreeorDie2   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by FreeorDie2
Thanks, Mickey. . . I'm sorry you went to all that trouble. I mean, I do know what an angle bracket is, but after talking to the guys at Home Depot, I was looking at anything that could remotely be interpreted as an angle bracket. What I mean is, I had no expectation that I would find something in the size I was looking for and started looking at anything that I might be able to cut to size -- if that makes any sense. Anyway, I appreciate it.
idive


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posted 11-25-2003 11:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for idive     send a private message to idive   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by idive
Was no problem. I draw the stuff for a living. I just didn't know how to draw it in paint so I could post it in here. BTW, don't use the word "bracket". Thats what's confusing them.
FreeorDie2


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posted 11-26-2003 08:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for FreeorDie2     send a private message to FreeorDie2   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by FreeorDie2
Thanks guys. I found the angle aluminum just where you said it would be at Home Depot. Of course, they only had it in 8' lengths, and only 1x1 (or 2x2, etc), but it cost next to nothing. I ended up doing it a little different from Grrowl's instructions, but it worked fine. Cut a 9" piece and trimmed it to fit under the bumper. Then mounted the original plate bracket to it. Everything else was the same. Worked like a champ. It seems real sturdy and looks great. Thanks again for your help!
GRROWL


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posted 11-26-2003 08:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for GRROWL     send a private message to GRROWL   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by GRROWL
quote:
Originally posted by FreeorDie2:
Thanks guys. I found the angle aluminum just where you said it would be at Home Depot. Of course, they only had it in 8' lengths, and only 1x1 (or 2x2, etc), but it cost next to nothing. I ended up doing it a little different from Grrowl's instructions, but it worked fine. Cut a 9" piece and trimmed it to fit under the bumper. Then mounted the original plate bracket to it. Everything else was the same. Worked like a champ. It seems real sturdy and looks great. Thanks again for your help!

Glad it worked for you. Using the original plate bracket is consistent, I couldn't use mine since it was damaged when the bumper was whacked, so I used a clear cover to stiffen the plate. BTW, how was it on the "Difficulty" scale?

-GRROWL


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