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Author Topic:   Here we go! More of my Prowler issues!
WIDOW

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From:Claremont, CA, USA
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posted 09-22-2018 02:22 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for WIDOW     send a private message to WIDOW   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by WIDOW
So today I finally got my Prowler back from the paint shop. I was also able to get the Vertical door hinges installed by Vertical doors. I am very happy with them! So while my car was with the body shop my coolant bottle springs a leak and my window regulator gives out. Then as I literally had the car back for an hour, I start it up in an underground parking facility, move it 5 feet and my engine dies! I go to start the car and nothing! The battery is only a few months old.

I check the voltage and all is good. My dash lights come on and all other electrical works. I pop the interior fuse panel and all looks good. I remove the drivers side fender and look at all fuses there even swapped out a 40 with the other 40 fuses to make sure that wasn't the issue. I then go through swapping out the small relays and still cant get the starter to engage. I swapped around he larger relays hoping that might be the issue but still nothing. I jacked up the car and tapped on the starter..nothing. Anyone have any other ideas? Does anyone know what cars shared this small starter in the Prowler? I am going to yank it in the morning.

It was great fun to be on the 3rd level of an underground parking facility and have to call AAA to have a small truck tow the Prowler out with a tow strap so we could get it outside to a large flatbed. Okay so that is my 3rd issue everything happens in threes right? Please be right!?!?! No more issues!I just want to drive my car!

Thanks for all your input I appreciate it!

This message has been edited by WIDOW on 09-22-2018 at 02:31 AM

garysss




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posted 09-22-2018 04:26 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for garysss     send a private message to garysss   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by garysss
Did you check the battery terminals? They might look tight, but could be loose. Mine have done the same thing a few times.
scottmartin
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posted 09-22-2018 05:40 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for scottmartin     send a private message to scottmartin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by scottmartin
I agree with Gary - I was having problems with mine starting if it sat for a week or two - I noticed the negative post on the battery was not tight even though I had tightened the nut as tight as possible so I crimped the terminal a bit so it fits tight to the battery post and have not had a problem the last 3 weeks. Hopefully this resolved my problem - appears to have.
bjprowler


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posted 09-22-2018 07:39 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bjprowler     send a private message to bjprowler   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by bjprowler
You may be having a problem with your Neutral Safety Switch which won't allow the engine to crank or start unless the car is in Park or Neutral.....Try Turning the key to "on", then move your gear shift to neutral with your foot on the brake and see if it will start....Sometimes simply moving the gear shift selector back and forth will make the contact necessary for the starter to engage...

The car will not crank if this relay is not aligned or working properly...


Here's a recent post on the exact topic...
http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/005725.html

This message has been edited by bjprowler on 09-22-2018 at 07:46 AM

padroo



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posted 09-22-2018 09:18 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
The easy way to check battery terminals with two people is to have someone inside turning the ignition switch and the other person using a quarter jaming it between the battery terminals and the post. Doing this to each terminal once a connection is made the car will turn over. It's quick and takes no tools.
ed monahan





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posted 09-22-2018 12:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
If you had vertical doors installed, they probably had to move wires in the door. Any chance one got crimped or pulled apart? That might also be the problem with the window regulator. I hate electrical problems. Good luck.
Tony Goertz





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posted 09-22-2018 04:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tony Goertz     send a private message to Tony Goertz   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tony Goertz
sent you a PM...
mslc10


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posted 09-22-2018 09:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mslc10     send a private message to mslc10   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by mslc10
Does any of other electrical work?

One thing I always do when someone’ s car “won’t start” is have them turn on the headlights. Then turn the key to crank the engine. If lights dim way down when starter relay clicks your battery is low.
If your lights don’t dim and you have no relay clicking , your issue is not the battery.....

georgieboy


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posted 09-23-2018 03:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for georgieboy     send a private message to georgieboy   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by georgieboy
I just had the very same problems with my Chevy truck. It was a burned out BCM (Body Control Module aka computer). It is caused by a low battery or the battery being disconnected for a long time. Vertical Doors probably had the battery disconnected while they worked on doors. Prowlers are notorius for having this problem. The BCM for my Chevy cost $330 and installation was $390. My battery had run low because it was 5 years old and I dont drive the truck much. I hear a BCM for a Prowler is much more expensive because they are hard to find. They are rebuildable.
WIDOW

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From:Claremont, CA, USA
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posted 09-24-2018 01:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for WIDOW     send a private message to WIDOW   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by WIDOW
I appreciate the help. I got a new starter and am popping that in today. It cant hurt to have the new starter in place anyways and I will have peace of mind. I cleaned all terminals to the batter and had put on a nice new negative cable a few months ago.

I can hear the relay click when I go to start the car. My computer was replaced about 2 years ago. I hope it isn't that again because my car is a 1999 and that part is discontinued. I will run my diagnostic scanner on the ODB and see if there are any errors or hints as to what might be happening.

Thanks everyone!

quote:
Originally posted by georgieboy:
I just had the very same problems with my Chevy truck. It was a burned out BCM (Body Control Module aka computer). It is caused by a low battery or the battery being disconnected for a long time. Vertical Doors probably had the battery disconnected while they worked on doors. Prowlers are notorius for having this problem. The BCM for my Chevy cost $330 and installation was $390. My battery had run low because it was 5 years old and I dont drive the truck much. I hear a BCM for a Prowler is much more expensive because they are hard to find. They are rebuildable.

bjprowler


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posted 09-24-2018 02:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bjprowler     send a private message to bjprowler   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by bjprowler
A starter is about the easiest thing on a car to see if it's defective or functioning properly. Don't replace the starter simply on the chance that it might be the problem.....Most electrical parts are NON-RETURNABLE once you've installed them.
WIDOW

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posted 09-24-2018 04:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for WIDOW     send a private message to WIDOW   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by WIDOW
Thanks Bjprowler. I tested all voltage all the way to the starter. All voltage is good. The relay responds when I turn the ignition. I have jacked up the car and banged on the starter to see if it is stuck, no go.

My issue could be two issues. Either way I am replacing the starter with a new one for piece of mind. My car has 129,000 miles on it so the starter will flake out eventually. I will then get the factory starter rebuilt and put it on the shelf for future replacement.

My battery is good. I have checked all fuses. I have replaced relays. I have put the car in neutral to see if it starts. I have made sure the vehicle theft is not active.

Thanks for everyone's help

quote:
Originally posted by bjprowler:
A starter is about the easiest thing on a car to see if it's defective or functioning properly. Don't replace the starter simply on the chance that it might be the problem.....Most electrical parts are NON-RETURNABLE once you've installed them.

phil2237


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posted 09-24-2018 07:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for phil2237     send a private message to phil2237   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by phil2237
Put a test light on the terminal at the starter to see if you have power from the battery, then put the test light on the terminal that cranks the engine. Have someone hold the key in the start position and see if you have power. Check these first as you will just waste money buying a starter and have the same problem.
FastLane

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posted 09-24-2018 09:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for FastLane     send a private message to FastLane   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by FastLane
what he said
passenger side has a loop of wires

check the wires there


quote:
Originally posted by ed monahan:
If you had vertical doors installed, they probably had to move wires in the door. Any chance one got crimped or pulled apart? That might also be the problem with the window regulator. I hate electrical problems. Good luck.

ed monahan





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posted 09-24-2018 10:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
The driver's door has about 10 wires also. There is a wire for the door locks, windows, etc.
WIDOW

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posted 09-25-2018 12:32 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for WIDOW     send a private message to WIDOW   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by WIDOW
Thanks for your input Ed. My window regulator issue is mechanical. The plastic fitting in the glass has broke on the drivers side. That plastic fitting meets the regulator and has broken loose. The regulator motor and electrical is fine including the door switch.

I drove the car from the body shop and parked it. Got in the car 4 hours later, started up just fine, warmed up the car then drove about 5 feet. The motor acted like it wanted to die and I gave it a little gas. The motor died and I then tried to restart the car which there was no starter motor. Really odd. I rolled back into the parking spot and started to troubleshoot. Swapped fuses, swapped relays and never could get the starter to react. AAA arrived and tested my battery and we looked all over for anything being disconnected but nothing was found.

I got the car home and replaced the relays with new ones as well as the 40 amp fuses for the ignition. I put my battery on the charger as well and made sure it was fully charged. I cleaned all terminals and replaced my negative battery cable. I can hear and feel the relay clicking as the ignition is turned.

Anyone have any other suggestions? My starter from Autozone doesn't seem to be the same as my factory one. I can still return it since I have not put it in the car yet. In the morning I am taking my factory starter to the rebuild shop not far from my house. I am going to have them go through it and make sure it is ok.

Thanks everyone!

quote:
Originally posted by ed monahan:
The driver's door has about 10 wires also. There is a wire for the door locks, windows, etc.

ed monahan





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posted 09-25-2018 02:34 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
I have Lambo doors on one of mine. They had to remove the door to work on the door jamb, therefore ALL of the wires that go through the door are probably cut near the hinge area. Think about it, power mirrors, power door lock, window regs for both sides, interior floor lights, speaker wires, etc. It is very possible one of those wires could be causing a short if it got pulled loose. I realize the ignition wires don't go through the door.
How long ago did you have the doors installed? That is a big deal and if you JUST had it done, I would think the odds of a an electrical problem occurring soon after would probably be high that the door COULD be involved. That said, I don't know much about electrical problems but I had a problem with mine. I bought the car with the doors on them and the previous owner had them disconnect the interior lights since he liked to display the car. (The interior lights go off after a few minutes, from the factory, so that was a waste of time and money.) I hope you figure it out without throwing too much money into it to find out it was something simple.
WIDOW

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posted 09-25-2018 10:42 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for WIDOW     send a private message to WIDOW   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by WIDOW
Thanks Ed. What you are saying makes sense with the timing of the installation and my issues. I will check out the loom and see if there are any issues.

quote:
Originally posted by ed monahan:
I have Lambo doors on one of mine. They had to remove the door to work on the door jamb, therefore ALL of the wires that go through the door are probably cut near the hinge area. Think about it, power mirrors, power door lock, window regs for both sides, interior floor lights, speaker wires, etc. It is very possible one of those wires could be causing a short if it got pulled loose. I realize the ignition wires don't go through the door.
How long ago did you have the doors installed? That is a big deal and if you JUST had it done, I would think the odds of a an electrical problem occurring soon after would probably be high that the door COULD be involved. That said, I don't know much about electrical problems but I had a problem with mine. I bought the car with the doors on them and the previous owner had them disconnect the interior lights since he liked to display the car. (The interior lights go off after a few minutes, from the factory, so that was a waste of time and money.) I hope you figure it out without throwing too much money into it to find out it was something simple.

ed monahan





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posted 09-29-2018 08:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
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