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Yep.....safe way to go, and you will have some fun as well! I think its great that people 'wrench' on their own. Then I followed RPL's instructions on running it through the gears. Fluid level measurement are always taken with engine running at idle. Putting in exactly what you took out is good and safe way to go.Richnew41 It's winter in PA and the Kat is napping till the spring so I decidied on my 1st trans fluid change. I decided to go with a safe method of just the pan fluid and refill with the exact amount that came out.... Then do several more pan fluid only changes till I think it's all been cycled through and new. New changes will be easy as I had a drain plug welded to the pan so no need to remove the pan again. That said, I was shocked at the amount of what I think is metal paste (The stuff too small for the filter) and or sediment that covered the bottom and sides of the pan. The magnet seemed to give up long ago in trying to hold all of it.... I guess I just had no idea how filthy it all was with just 12k miles. I ordered a FilterMag transmission magnet to do a better job then that tinny 1" magnet in the pan now.
I am certainly glad I decided to get to this... shocking....phil2237 That metallic stuff you found inside is normal, just keep up on the services in the future ClayD My experience has been that you'll find less of that stuff on subsequent fluid changes. quincy Cleaning the pan while off the trans is ok. Do not disturb the 'grey paste' that coats other components, like the valve body. If disturbed, the gunk may get into a spool valve or solenoid and cause it to stick, resulting in trans issues. Any reason you did not want the dealer to change your ATF utilizing one of their 'heart lung' machines other than cost? Richnew41 Cost is not an issue... I like doing things myself when it does not appear to be over my head.. Since its easy to get to the pan and since its just a pan drain and fill, I found it to be a non-invasive approach to a trans filter and oil change. Also, and not specific to the Prowler, I've heard and read of tons of people with issues after getting a complete fluid trans flush by machine... In my head, this was a safe alternative. quincy quote:
Originally posted by Richnew41:
Cost is not an issue... I like doing things myself when it does not appear to be over my head.. Since its easy to get to the pan and since its just a pan drain and fill, I found it to be a non-invasive approach to a trans filter and oil change. Also, and not specific to the Prowler, I've heard and read of tons of people with issues after getting a complete fluid trans flush by machine... In my head, this was a safe alternative. RPL Make sure that you properly refill the transaxle when you're done. There's a procedure, not difficult but the steps must be followed. If you have any questions just ask. Richnew41 Hey RPL... thanks for the info!!! I was not aware of any refill procedure so I would appreciate any help and information on the procedure please.
Thank You!
RichRPL Fill the trans to the full mark with ATF+4. Raise both rear wheels off the ground and block the front wheels. Start the car and put it in drive. Make sure that you accelerate enough to allow the car to shift through all four gears. Apply the brakes to stop the spinning tires. Engage reverse. Again stop the tire movement, put it in neutral or park and check the trans fluid level. Add fluid to bring the level up to the proper level. Don't be surprised if it take a couple of quarts. Repeat the process a second and even a third time until the fluid level doesn't change. Once the level doesn't change, recheck the level again once the car is level on the ground. If you simply refill it and don't run it through the gears it will be very low on fluid, enough to destroy the transaxle if you drive it. padroo I sucked my transmission fluid out with a Harbor Freight transfer pump into a 5 gallon bucket then dropped the transmission pan. There wasn't much left in the pan so I put it into the same bucket. I didn't loose any of the old fluid so I marked the bucket and emptied it. I cleaned the bucket and filled it up to the same level of fluid that came out of the transmission then used the same pump to put the new fluid back into the transmission and didn't need a funnel.
http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html RPL padroo....smart move. Much cleaner than just dropping the pans. Richnew41 In my case I'm glad I dropped the pan (At least for this 1st change) given the amount of sediment/metal paste removed and to also add a drain plug.
I will follow the procedure on raising the back end and going through the gears as recommended. That said, I honestly did not think it was needed (Raising the back end) as I'm replacing the "Exact" amount removed. I was careful on the drain and lost no oil as I used a water heater leak pan as my drain oil pan... I measured the oil down to the oz. I removed exactly 6.7 quarts and will replace with the same amount. Adding a transmission FilterMag will also greatly help to keep it cleaner for the future (They are seriously strong earth magnets)
Appreciate all the help!
Tomcal You can also refill system by running it through the gears using Auto-Stick mode without jacking rear wheels up. It will fill torque convertor and clutch packs. Then drive car normally to 45 mph to fill torque convertor lock-up circuit. A cold engine/transmission with be at approximately "ADD Mark" on dipstick when properly filled. After it reaches operating temperature fluid will expand and be at "Full Mark".
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