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Author Topic:   01 Prowler Detail
Hamlyn

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From:Plano, TX
Registered: Jul 2013
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posted 11-04-2013 01:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn
In July of 2013, I purchased a 2001 Plymouth Prowler in orange. The Prowler had 6K original miles and had been garage kept and well maintained by its previous owners.
I was informed that this car had never been rained on, or ever washed, for that matter. So, in essence, the car had never touched water.
The previous owner used a quick detailer to keep the car clean, and it was that: CLEAN.


Hamlyn

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posted 11-04-2013 01:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn
It would appear, however, in the process of cleaning the car, the owner removed dust and dirt with a clean cloth and a spray of the quick detailer. While this provides the Prowler with a clean appearance, it does very little to protect the paint from fine scratches and swirls.
As stated, the car looked immaculate from a distance, but on closer inspection, and when the sun hit it at just the right angle, you could see swirls and scratches on much of the body of the car.



Hamlyn

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posted 11-04-2013 01:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn
So I set out to take corrective steps to remove these defects, and to protect the paint. I looked at various options around town to have the correction performed by professionals. Pricing to remove the swirls, and seal and wax the paint started at $450 and up.
The Prowler is a gorgeous looking car, like no other. I wanted to give it a showroom quality makeover. Consequently, I set out to do the job myself, despite the fact that I had never detailed a car in my life.

Work performed
Washed with Dawn liquid soap
Cleaned further with detailing clay bar
Compounded and polished with dual action polisher
Shampooed
Applied sealant
Applied wax
Trim and bumpers protected with trim protectant
Tires treated with tire glaze
Glass polished and sealed
Wheels removed, cleaned and polished
Exhaust tip cleaned and polished

This work took close to two months to complete. I performed extensive research to learn the art of washing, claying, use of compounds and polishes with a dual action polisher, applying sealant, waxing, interior detailing, leather treatment, metal polishing, cleaning glass, cleaning a convertible soft top, and more.

I approached each task individually. Many of the tasks took between one and four hours to complete. One task at a time, I took time to review the products and tools I would need to complete with a high degree of success. I then ordered tools and products that I found would suit me best. My order typically arrived by mid to end of the week, and I set out to do the work. Much of the work was performed late afternoons after work and on weekends.

Removing the swirls with compounds and polishing the paint took the longest. Once I felt the paint was free of scratches and swirls, I applied the sealant and two layers of wax. When I felt the paint was as good as it was going to get, I finished detailing the rest of the car (interior, glass, wheels, trim).

The end result speaks for itself:


This message has been edited by Hamlyn on 11-04-2013 at 05:24 PM

Hamlyn

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posted 11-04-2013 01:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn


StingRay




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posted 11-04-2013 02:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for StingRay     send a private message to StingRay   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by StingRay
Very nice! Best looking Orange Kat I have now seen!!
Terry


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posted 11-04-2013 02:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Terry     send a private message to Terry   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Terry
Very nicely done... and it's my 2nd favorite color Prowler.

(Candy Red - favorite)

enzvoy



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posted 11-04-2013 02:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for enzvoy     send a private message to enzvoy   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by enzvoy
nice detailing work
BeWare





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posted 11-04-2013 03:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
Nice job.
Simonsez





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posted 11-04-2013 03:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Simonsez     send a private message to Simonsez   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Simonsez
You certainly have an eye for detail. Beautiful.
beachcat



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posted 11-04-2013 04:56 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for beachcat     send a private message to beachcat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by beachcat
Using a quick detailer on a car, without removing all grit, is insane.

Congrats on what you accomplished. Looks almost like a wet sand. It would be good if you could share your reserch with us.

ed monahan





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posted 11-04-2013 06:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
How much to do the same to my cars? Can you give me a three Prowler discount? I am not much into doing any real work anymore.
Your car looks fabulous, great job.
stprinz



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posted 11-05-2013 02:58 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for stprinz     send a private message to stprinz   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by stprinz
NICE KAT.....
u00tjs2
a

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posted 11-05-2013 07:19 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for u00tjs2     send a private message to u00tjs2   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by u00tjs2
GREAT JOB! GREAT PHOTOS!! PLEASE SHARE YOUR RESEARCH. WELCOME ABOARD!

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img]http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/smilies/blueprowl.gif[/img

georgieboy


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posted 11-05-2013 08:33 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for georgieboy     send a private message to georgieboy   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by georgieboy
Hamlyn, whar brand of compound did you use to remove the scratches and swirls?
pumpkin


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posted 11-05-2013 09:32 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for pumpkin     send a private message to pumpkin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by pumpkin
Outstanding.you did a great job.

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"I may have to grow older, but I do not have to grow up!"

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Hamlyn

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From:Plano, TX
Registered: Jul 2013
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posted 11-05-2013 12:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn
This is a lot of reading. I have documented the highlights of the information gathered during my research. I have included some links to information that I found to be beneficial to me. While much of this information is not the final authority on how to detail an automobile, it is information that helped me with my endeavor to achieve the results above.
Please feel free to comment or ask questions. I will try and provide as much information as possible.

Tips:
I recommend you keep separate microfiber towels, applicators, brushes for different areas. I have purple towels for windows, yellow microfiber towels for the body, black mitts and towels for the wheels, white towels for leather, green towels for interior cleaning. This helps me identify the correct towel and keeps from cross-contamination. I purchased my towels and applicators from the rag company (http://www.theragcompany.com/). If your order exceeds $75, they will give you wholesale pricing. I have found 16” by 24” waffle weave towels selling for $16 each elsewhere online. The rag company’s 16” by 16” waffle weave towel cost me $2.85 wholesale (retail $7.85).

This message has been edited by Hamlyn on 11-05-2013 at 12:39 PM

Hamlyn

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posted 11-05-2013 12:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn
The wash:
The first order of business was to clean the car before starting any corrective paintwork. The paint needed to be stripped of all dirt, contaminants, and residue from previous sealant, wax and detailer applications.
I learned the best method to perform this task is to use dish soap (Dawn). Dish soap will strip the body of dirt, oil, wax and expose the clear coat.
Dish soap is generally not recommended by detailing experts. Dish soap breaks down oils and strips the paint of all previously applied protectants. While this is a desired effect when starting a paint correcting process, for regular maintenance it is generally recommended to use car shampoos made specifically for body paint to preserve previous layers of protection (sealants, waxes).
Now, when washing your car, a popular, and most recommended wash method is using a two-bucket method. In a two-bucket method, one bucket contains clean soapy water and the other plain clean water. You scoop sudsy water with your wash mitt from the first bucket and wash a panel. You then dip the mitt in the second bucket containing the clean water to rinse it off and allow the dirt and grime to run off to the bottom of the bucket. This keeps you from bringing dirt and grime that you removed from the car back into the soapy water. Repeat the process until you have completed washing the car. I used a CarPro Wool Wash Mitt to wash the Prowler. http://www.carpro-us.com/merino-wool-wash-mitt/
Start with the wheels first. Once the wheels are cleaned, continue from the top of the car and work your way down. I keep separate towels and wash mitts for the tire and wheels.
Do not use dish soap on convertible soft tops, as it will strip the cloth of factory-applied protectants.
In the process of washing the car, I took care not to get harsh dish soap on the convertible top. I used water only to clean the top and blotted it dry with a large waffle weave towel so as not to strip off any protectant. I found some lint left over on the top, so I used a lint roller to safely remove them from the top.
RaggTopp makes some excellent convertible top cleaner and protectant. I purchased the kit, which comes with a 16 oz. bottle each of the cleaner and protectant, a natural horse hair convertible brush and two microfiber detailing cloths. http://www.autogeek.net/vinyl-convertible-top-care-kit.html
Use a grit guard with your buckets. A grit guard is a grill with veins that sits at the bottom of your bucket and keeps the water from swirling around when rinsing your wash mitts. This keeps the grit and dirt from swirling back to the top and getting stuck on your wash mitt. http://www.gritguard.com/catalog/product/gallery/id/8/image/10/
Dry your car using soft towels. The finer the towel, the less chance you have of marring the paint further. I used waffle weave towels. I also purchased the Metro Air Force Blaster. I find toweling your car dry is the best method; however, the Air Force blaster can get to water that are hard to reach.

This message has been edited by Hamlyn on 11-05-2013 at 06:50 PM

Hamlyn

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From:Plano, TX
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posted 11-05-2013 12:41 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn
The clay bar:
I discovered the clay bar. I had no idea what this was at first, so I did some extensive reading to understand what its intended purpose was. I learned that when you are finished washing the car, there are still residue and contaminants that remain on the paint that are not removed by washing alone. Glide your hand across the surface of the paint, and you will feel bumps here and there. Sometimes you will hear your hand “scratching” across the surface of the paint. Place your hand in a sandwich bag and run it across the paint surface, and you will feel pronounced roughness. This, it turns out, is brake dust, dirt and other airborne contaminants such as tar and even paint that stick to your paint. The way to remove them is by claying the paint.
Clay is an elastic, play-dough type of synthetic material that professionals used in the old days.
I use a clay bar with a lubricant (soapy water or quick detailer). You rub (glide) the clay bar across the lubricated surface with virtually no pressure. It removes the surface contaminants and leaves your paint smooth and clean. http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html
I used Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay and Wolfgang Clay Lubricant, Meguiar’s Smooth Surface Clay Kit and Mother’s California Gold Clay Bar System. I preferred the Wolfgang products. Wolfgang seemed less tacky and easier to use.
I clayed a 2’ by 2’ area at a time. You will feel the clay grabbing occasionally as it picks up dirt and contaminants from the surface and easily glides across the surface when there is nothing left to pick up. When the clay bar gets dirty, you fold it a few times, knead it and expose a fresh layer, and continue. When you are finished, place the clay bar in a Ziploc bag, spray a little detailer and seal it closed.
Once I completed the clay bar, I tested the surface and found it to be smooth and glossy to the touch.
Next, I washed the car again, this time with citrus shampoo using a foam gun. Citrus shampoo, similar to dish soap, strips the paint of everything and presents you with the naked paint.

Hamlyn

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From:Plano, TX
Registered: Jul 2013
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posted 11-05-2013 12:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn
Compounding:
I used an LED spotlight to determine how much corrective work was needed. The sun would have provided a better light source to identify swirls and scratches, but the car was kept indoors to keep tree sap, dust and dirt off the body.
I discovered a couple of long light scratches that were going to require a little more work than the swirls. I also discovered a pair of small paint chips (one on the fender, another on the trunk) that would require touch up later on.
To perform much of the corrective work, I learned that a dual action orbital polisher is safe to use, even for the novice (that’s me). A dual action polisher, unlike rotary polishers, does not have forced rotation, and as such, will not harm your paint. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgSLEVi_SPg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYed_Hnrql4#t=224
I had initially purchased a Porter Cable dual action polisher for the bulk of the buffing, and a Griot’s Garage 3” polisher for the smaller areas and tight spaces. Later on, after much reading and many recommendations, I purchased a Rupes Bigfoot 21ES polisher. The Rupes polisher performed much of the work quicker.
I also purchased appropriate foam buffing pads for my polisher (heavy and light cutting for compounding, standard and light polishing pads, and finishing pads). The industry has established a color code for buffing pads (in diminishing order of cutting ability: yellow (severe cutting), orange (light cutting), white (polishing), gray (finishing), blue (finessing), red (wax, sealant)). Many manufacturers will follow this color code. Some don’t. Rupes does not. You can use the polisher manufacturer’s pads or go with third party pads. The choice is yours.
Match your compound to the appropriate pad. I chose the orange pad to work with the compound.
I used Wolfgang Uber Compound 3.0 and Wolfgang Swirl Remover 3.0 to remove the scratches and swirls. I inspected my work several times and found often that I needed to go over some areas repeatedly. Meguiar’s 105 and 205 compound and polish respectively come highly recommended. Menzerna’s products also come highly recommended.
I found the hood, trunk, doors and side panels to be easy to work on. The lower body panels, the nose, the side view mirrors and grill posed the most challenge. Concave areas, for the most part, were a little challenging. I used the 3” polisher for the tight areas, and used manual steps in the tightest hard-to-get-to places.
The process was fairly straightforward. I selected a 2’ by 2’ surface area, applied product to the polishing pad and worked the area front to back and side to side while applying a little pressure. The polisher has a speed dial numbered 1 to 6. I set the speed between 5 and 6.
I performed six to eight passes, wiped the surface clean with a clean microfiber cloth and inspected the results. When I felt that I had removed all defects, I moved on to the next area.
The first time I used the Porter Cable polisher, the palms of my hands tingled and itched for quite some time from the vibration. I did not experience the itch the next time I used it.

This message has been edited by Hamlyn on 11-05-2013 at 10:09 PM

Hamlyn

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posted 11-05-2013 12:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn
Polishing:
Once I was happy with the results from the compounding, I used a standard polishing pad to apply Wolfgang Finishing Glaze (polish). The finishing glaze applied easily, and wiped off just as easily. Although both the compound and polish are varying degrees of abrasives, they both have diminishing properties to them. This means that they degrade and break down through use. I used the gray pad to polish the paint.
Similar to the compounding process, I worked in a 2’ by 2’ area and applied the polish. I used position 4 on the polisher to work the polish and made four to six passes per section. I did not need to set the speed as high as compounding because this time we’re aiming to polish the results from the previous step. Four to six passes was enough. After finishing the polishing process, the paint looked perfect - the paint could stand on its own without any sealant or wax.

Hamlyn

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posted 11-05-2013 12:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn
Ceramic Coating:
The next step is to apply a sealant on the paint before waxing. Sealants are typically synthetic coating designed to provide long lasting protection for your paint. Sealants will last you several months, however, they do not provide the same level of depth and shine that great waxes do. Waxes, on the flip side, look fantastic, but do not last very long. Many detailers will apply a sealant first and apply a layer of wax to give the paint depth and shine. My goal was to give the car a showroom shine. Longevity was not a factor.
While researching sealants, I learned about a new type of product that has been the buzz lately. Ceramic coating. Companies like CarPro (CQuartz), Optimum Car Care, GTechniq and others have come up with new ceramic coating technology that provides long lasting protection while giving paint a mirror like finish. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubpS0zs7LEU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OL4xtIg6L8c
I chose Migliore Strata coating for its ease of application. The Strata coating comes in a 1 oz. bottle.
When my order arrived, I shampooed the car one final time using a foam gun. I rinsed the car off with a water hose, toweled and blew it dry, and allowed it to sit until completely dry.
I wiped down each panel with a 10/90% Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) / water mix before applying the Strata coating. Some will tell you that 91% IPA is safe for paint. If left on for too long, however, you will find that IPA will soften clear coat. While some will dilute it at 50/50, I follow the prudent experts’ recommendations and thin it down to 10% IPA. The IPA wipe-down is to ensure there is no leftover soap or polish residue.
Next, I applied the Strata coating with the provided applicator to a 2’ by 2’ area in a ½ cross hatch pattern (up and down, left and right) and allowed it to sit for a minute. I then wiped off any residue with a clean microfiber cloth. I continued this pattern until I had the entire car coated.
I had close to a half bottle (½ oz.) of the coating left when I finished the car.
During the application process, when the light hit it just right, I could see a line where the coating was applied. The instructions call for the application to cure for seven hours. I allowed it to cure overnight.

Hamlyn

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posted 11-05-2013 12:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn
The wax:
The following day I inspected the car one final time before proceeding with the wax application. I chose the Migliore Presidenziale wax for this car. It is Migliore’s highest-grade wax with nearly 50% carnauba.
Many detailers today use polishers to apply wax or sealant. I chose to lay down the first layer by hand using a yellow jewelling applicator pad. The trick with Migliore wax is to use it sparingly. Less is more. It took an hour and a half to apply the first layer. I allowed it to cure overnight.
The next day, armed with multiple microfiber buffing cloths, I buffed the wax off and inspected the work. The trick here is to fold your cloth twice, thus giving you eight surfaces to buff the wax with. I buffed off the wax turning over and unfolding the microfiber cloth frequently.
Again I allowed the car to sit overnight. The next day I applied a second layer of wax using the 3” polisher. This time I completed the job a lot quicker. Once finished, I buffed the wax off one more time.

Hamlyn

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posted 11-05-2013 12:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn
Windows:
I learned that there is more to windows than simply using Windex and wiping them down. In addition to your standard windows cleaning products, there are polishes and polishing pads, glass coating solutions that you can treat your windows with. There are also cleaning and wiping cloths made specifically for glass. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4WwOrkgXlc
I wiped down all the windows with Stoner’s Invisible Glass.
I chose GTechniq’s G4 Glass Nano Polish and G1 Clear Vision Smart Glass (glass coating) to coat and protect the glass. G1 is a water repellant similar to RainX. GTechniq products come highly recommended. G1 comes in a ½ oz. bottle with a G2 residue remover (also ½ oz.) and applicators.
I polished the glass with GTechniq’s G4 glass polish using the 3” polisher and a glass polishing pad.
Once I was satisfied that the glass was clean, I applied GTechniq’s G1. I applied the G1 product to each exterior glass surface and allowed it to sit for five minutes. I repeated the process twice on the front windshield and once on the windows. I allowed G1 to cure for fifteen minutes. When ready, I applied the G2 residue remover to the glass and buffed it to a shine. This product is expected to repel liquid for up to 30K miles. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsSX_kaetgw

Hamlyn

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posted 11-05-2013 12:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn
Leather:
There are two types of automotive leather. Treated or coated leather, such as the type you find in Mercedes and BMW and untreated (truth be told, there are three Aniline, Nubuck and Pigmented), but for the sake of this article, we’re focused on protected and unprotected leather. Here is more excellent reading on different types of leather. http://www.ferndownservices.com/typesofleather.html
Untreated or unprotected leather will absorb liquids whereas protected leather may not. To determine which type of leather your car has, place a small drop of water on the surface and wait. If it beads and stays that way, you have protected (coated) leather.
I chose Swissvax leather care products to clean and treat the Prowler’s leathers. Swissvax does not leave an odor and performs superbly to clean and protect leather. I lathered up the seats with the leather cleaner and scrubbed them with a stiff bristle brush. Following the care instructions, I wiped down the seats in a straight line and going in one direction only. I applied the leather milk leather care lotion and allowed it to soak in. The leather milk leaves no residue and finishes matte.
Using a hog bristle brush I followed the same method to clean the leather steering wheel. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaPDcGdd8PI

Hamlyn

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posted 11-05-2013 12:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hamlyn     send a private message to Hamlyn   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Hamlyn
Interior:
I used 1Z Einszett Cockpit Premium Interior Plastic Cleaner (Eins Zett is German for 1Z) to clean and detail the interior of the Prowler. The 1Z product has a citrus smell to it when applied; however, the smell dissipates almost immediately.
I sprayed the 1Z product onto a microfiber cloth and went over all plastic surfaces of the interior, from the dash, to the door panels, pillars, console, etc. I reached into all crevices, behind the door handle, steering column and cassette insert slot.
Once done, I performed a final wipe-down to ensure the 1Z did not leave sheen behind.


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