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Author Topic:   HVAC Problem
AJAK

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posted 09-22-2017 11:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for AJAK     send a private message to AJAK   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by AJAK
When I calibrate the Mode Door Actuator because it is not operating properly this is what happens: When I start the car after the calibration (Disconnecting the Negative Battery Cable for a little over 60 Seconds) and have the vent selection set for center where the air comes out the dash board vents the air will come out the center for a few seconds, then it shifts to the lower under the dash board vents for a few seconds and then it returns to the center dash board vents for about 30 to 45 seconds. Then I hear a door close, almost like a slam, and air now only comes out the defrost vents in the top of the dash. I have been told it could be a defective mode door actuator/motor. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks, AJAK
stevedymo


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posted 09-22-2017 01:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for stevedymo     send a private message to stevedymo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by stevedymo
Try it again. This time when you disconnect the Neg, turn the Fan switch to High (per Robin's instruction) then reconnect the battery after 60 sec.
AJAK

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posted 09-22-2017 01:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for AJAK     send a private message to AJAK   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by AJAK
Thanks for your reply Steve, I did try Robin's suggestion but I will try it again. In the Service Manual it mentions disconnecting the M-1 fuse as another way to try and solve the problem. Do you know if the M-1 they mention is the #5 in the fuse panel on the left dash area?
AJAK

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posted 09-22-2017 01:41 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for AJAK     send a private message to AJAK   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by AJAK
Steve:

I just went thru Robin's suggestion three
(3) times and the result was exactly the same as I described. I did notice that the A/c came on even thought the A/c button was not pushed and the A/C light was off. I think that is because when I hear the door close it goes to defrost and I believe that tells the A/C to turn on for defrosting. Any other ideas? Thanks again for the help and suggestion.

AJAK

stevedymo


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posted 09-22-2017 02:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for stevedymo     send a private message to stevedymo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by stevedymo
AJAK, #5 is the fuse. If the setting was on defrost that is why the AC came on. Try the other settings to see if they work properly.
AJAK

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posted 09-22-2017 02:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for AJAK     send a private message to AJAK   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by AJAK
Steve: The setting was on center vent and after the 40 some seconds the door shuts without me changing the vent selection switch. I still wonder if it could be in the computer module and not the mode door actuator. I really do not want to have the dash removed which is what it says in the repair manual has to be done in order to replace the mode door actuator. It seems as if the actuator reacts properly and then after about 30 to 40 seconds the door shuts and it goes to defrost mode. Again, thanks for all the suggestions. AJAK
robin


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posted 09-22-2017 05:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for robin     send a private message to robin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robin
I read somewhere that someone just cleaned the connections of the BCM
You can purchase electric connection cleaner.
Then applied a little dielectric lube and there problem corrected it self.
It sounds like the the system is not communicating.
This is worth a try. Other options are change the door actuator labor intensive or a new BCM
Please keep us in the loop.
Good luck.
AJAK

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posted 09-22-2017 06:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for AJAK     send a private message to AJAK   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by AJAK
Thanks Robin, I will try that as I do have electrical cleaner. If it just would not work after the calibration process I could understand the actuator being bad but I tend to agree that something is loosing the connection in communicating after the 30 to 40 seconds of operation. I appreciate your help and I will keep everyone informed. I really do not want to have the instrument panel removed because I feel that could lead to many other problems. I might have to do that if nothing else works.

Again, Thank You and everyone else for trying to help me out.

Regards, AJAK

AJAK

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posted 09-22-2017 06:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for AJAK     send a private message to AJAK   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by AJAK
Robin:

Just located the BCM by the drivers left foot, it appears as if I will have to remove it to get at the connectors and my Service Manual explains how to remove the unit. Unless you were about the size of a 1 year old I do not think you could remove the plugs and attach them again. I appreciate your help. Regards, AJAK

ClayD
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posted 09-22-2017 08:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ClayD     send a private message to ClayD   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ClayD
I've done it. Just takes patience and determination.
AJAK

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posted 09-23-2017 10:01 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for AJAK     send a private message to AJAK   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by AJAK
Clay:
Thanks for the information, did you remove the BCM to get at the plugs? If you did, are there any wire ties that will hold the plug wires or is there enough wire length that allows the BCM to come out far enough to get at the plugs?

Again, Thanks AJAK

1buddyc



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posted 09-23-2017 02:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 1buddyc     send a private message to 1buddyc   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by 1buddyc
quote:
Originally posted by AJAK:
Clay:
Thanks for the information, did you remove the BCM to get at the plugs? If you did, are there any wire ties that will hold the plug wires or is there enough wire length that allows the BCM to come out far enough to get at the plugs?

Again, Thanks AJAK



I can tell you this, it's a heck of a lot easier if you have the Top down and if you remove the Driver Seat (2 Nuts and 2 Bolts). Very hard area to get to, you'll need all the room you can get.
AJAK

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posted 09-23-2017 03:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for AJAK     send a private message to AJAK   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by AJAK
If I follow you suggestion will I be able to remove and reinstall the plugs or is it necessary to remove the BCM to get at the plugs? I appreciate your suggestion as it is a really tight spot to get at, the extra room would be very helpful. Again, Thanks
1buddyc



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posted 09-23-2017 03:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 1buddyc     send a private message to 1buddyc   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by 1buddyc
It's really hard to get to where the BCM is tucked in, let alone the banks of plugs that fit into it.
My advice, take the 2 bolts out that attach the BCM to the underside of the kick panel and then remove the wire connectors. Easier to get to that way and at least you can see what you're doing. Reverse the proceedure to reinstall.

This message has been edited by 1buddyc on 09-23-2017 at 03:29 PM

AJAK

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posted 09-23-2017 08:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for AJAK     send a private message to AJAK   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by AJAK
Thanks for the suggestion, every little bit helps. I will probably work on the car this weekend or early next week. Hopefully cleaning and greasing the plugs will solve the problem. If you think of any other ideas I would certainly appreciate hearing them. Regards----AJAK
Dano

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posted 09-23-2017 09:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dano     send a private message to Dano   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Dano
I just came across this thread and want to say that I am having a very similar problem with my AC. The problem started after I had worked on my radio and I figured I knocked a vacuum line loose...but from this I am seeing that the AC door is electrically operated and not vacuum - hmmmm.

AJAK, please keep us posted with any progress on this. If I find the solution to my issue, I will share it as well. Together we can hopefully tame these girls!

ClayD
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posted 09-23-2017 10:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ClayD     send a private message to ClayD   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ClayD
quote:
Originally posted by AJAK:
Clay:
Thanks for the information, did you remove the BCM to get at the plugs? If you did, are there any wire ties that will hold the plug wires or is there enough wire length that allows the BCM to come out far enough to get at the plugs?

Again, Thanks AJAK


I didn't need to undo any wire ties on mine. Yes, I removed it to get at the plugs to reseat them in an attempt to cure an instrument cluster problem.

AJAK

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posted 09-24-2017 08:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for AJAK     send a private message to AJAK   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by AJAK
Dano:

What sort of result do you get when you try the reset process by disconnecting the ground on the battery for 60 seconds or so. Does that cause the vent selector to work for a short time? I will keep everyone posted on any results I have.

Thanks for all of the interest in my problem. Regards, AJAK

Dano

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posted 09-26-2017 09:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dano     send a private message to Dano   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Dano
I have not yet been able to test that. My belts are all screwed up and I need to replace them before I can drive it at all. But before that, I got some catch up at work to do first. But before that, I am on my way to a cruise (in a ship...not in a car) with my wife right now (her 50th - happy BDay!) so that is waaaay more important. So what am I saying??? In a couple of weeks...UGH.

This message has been edited by Dano on 09-26-2017 at 09:48 PM

robin


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posted 09-28-2017 11:14 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for robin     send a private message to robin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robin
found that thread about the electrical cleaner and dielectric grease for the BCM thanks Superdave

My 1997 model did the same thing around 15 years ago. Driving along it would just shut down without any other symptoms. It usually took 20-30 minutes before it would start up again. My mechanic, the fantastic Neal Norton, thought that it might be the PCM but before he replaced it he applied dielectric grease to the connections at the PCM. My car has performed great ever since. I had to have the grease reapplied 5-6 years ago due to an error code, but that fixed the problem again. Applying grease is simple and cheap; I highly recommend it!
Good luck!
Dave

This message has been edited by robin on 09-28-2017 at 11:16 AM

Dano

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posted 10-08-2017 07:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dano     send a private message to Dano   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Dano
Ok...finally, here is the update I promised:

I did the reset sequence, and at first it did not work properly, but after several iterations of turning the knob back and forth and waiting for it to change it started working and seems to be working now. Hopefully it will keep working.

Dano

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posted 10-08-2017 09:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dano     send a private message to Dano   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Dano
.

This message has been edited by Dano on 10-08-2017 at 09:58 PM

AJAK

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posted 10-09-2017 02:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for AJAK     send a private message to AJAK   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by AJAK
Dano:

I am glad the reset worked for you, I reset mine several times, it would work for a minute and then fail again. I have not worked on my BCM, clean contacts and apply dielectric grease, as we have had house guests etc. i am hoping to work on it this week if possible. I will let everyone know my result.

Regards, AJAK

AJAK

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posted 10-11-2017 09:20 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for AJAK     send a private message to AJAK   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by AJAK
Update from AJAK:

Well, I removed the drivers seat, put the top down and attempted to remove the BCM. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to get at the forward upper nut? I was able to remove all the nuts but I am having a real problem getting at the upper forward one. I would appreciate any suggestions. I am going to try a flexible shaft socket wrench extension and try to use a mirror to guide the extension on to the nut.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Regards, AJAK

stevedymo


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posted 10-11-2017 10:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for stevedymo     send a private message to stevedymo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by stevedymo
Did you remove the Knee Blocker Panel under the dash? My service manual shows a bolt above the Data Link Connector. Don't know if that is one for the Knee Panel.

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