posted 10-02-2018 03:01 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by spoons:
Thanks for the update and feedback. Glad United Radio treated you right. Some other ideas to check

- Check the 11 grounds on the car, start with the ones behind the gates and radio.
- Voltage regulator coming from PCM (use analog gauge to ensure it’s not bouncing around too much; digital gauge doesn’t typically pick up voltage bouncing as it’s a sample)

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posted 10-09-2018 05:11 PM                  

Next step is to purchase a new battery and see if that has any impact. The battery in the car is what came with the car when I bought it about 4 years ago. No dates on the battery to tell me it's age. It's been on a Battery Tender for the last 2.5 - 3 years and volts always register about 13.7 when fully charged. Can't hurt to replace it anyway, right? Maybe a bad cell? Maybe the alternator is causing some voltage issues? Might have it checked out too.

If not that, then back to the speedo shop, only this time with the car attached so he can run some diagnostics through the OBD port even though I'm not getting any codes.

posted 10-09-2018 09:53 PM                  

I know you don’t trust your local dealer and neither do I, but consider taking it to the dealer as I wish I had it would have saved me a lot of time. They have a DRB computer that can look at all the computer modules (a lot deeper than OBD 2) and diagnose the issue in minutes.

They were able to determine that the BCM was bad and the alternator was causing the voltage to jump around. Despite me repacing the alternator twice the mechanic told me many parts stores refusrbished alternators don’t do a good job with refurb. The dealer replaced it with OEM alternator and the gages bouncing stopped but many of them did not work. I had United radio fix the BCM and was back to normal. Prior to that I had spent over 40 hrs troubling shooting on my own.

posted 10-10-2018 12:41 PM                  

So you said your BCM was bad but sounds like it may have been the alternator causing the gauge issue? United Radio tested my BCM, so don't know if a dealer would test it and obtain different results? Do you suggest I go after the alternator specifically then? I have a message in to my local Chrysler dealership to schedule an appointment, not holding my breath on receiving a response to be honest, but may just drive it in if I don't hear from them

Thanks again for your input, it's much appreciated!
Brian

quote:

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Originally posted by spoons:
Weezy

I know you don’t trust your local dealer and neither do I, but consider taking it to the dealer as I wish I had it would have saved me a lot of time. They have a DRB computer that can look at all the computer modules (a lot deeper than OBD 2) and diagnose the issue in minutes.

They were able to determine that the BCM was bad and the alternator was causing the voltage to jump around. Despite me repacing the alternator twice the mechanic told me many parts stores refusrbished alternators don’t do a good job with refurb. The dealer replaced it with OEM alternator and the gages bouncing stopped but many of them did not work. I had United radio fix the BCM and was back to normal. Prior to that I had spent over 40 hrs troubling shooting on my own.

Before repacing your alternator check the round output plug that comes off the alternator. Is there less than 5 ohms of resistance? If so the if so replace the alternator. If larger than 5 ohms replace the PCM which is where the voltage regulator is. The Prowler mechanic service manual says the PCM “controls” the voltage between 12.9-15 volts

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posted 10-12-2018 12:27 AM                  

As a side note in my adventure of trying to determine what the gremlin is, I had my battery tested today. I found out the battery is over 5 years old and the guy at Interstate Batteries (went there because that's the battery I have in the car), he said "You're battery is going strong". It tested with no issues under full load and did perfectly during two separate lengthy load tests of continuous 600+ cranking amps, stays at 13.7 to 13.8 when charged, no dead cells, and when the water was tested, all cells floated the measurement doo-hicky to the top, etc..

posted 10-12-2018 05:56 PM                  

So, looks like based on everything I have heard on here and researched so far, I have but a couple of possibilities left

A. It really is the circuit board and if so, do I send to the Prowler Store or send to the eBay vendors who repair them? Does anyone have experience with either?

B. Or, it is a ground issue. If so, I know there are 11 grounds on the car but I don't have a lift, just ramps. Which ground(s) would be mostly likely the culprit? Does anyone know where they all are? I read a post from Jan from years ago but was difficult to distinguish the exact locations from his post.

posted 10-13-2018 02:57 PM                  

quote:

---

Originally posted by spoons:
Thanks for the update and feedback. Glad United Radio treated you right. Some other ideas to check

- Check the 11 grounds on the car, start with the ones behind the gates and radio.
- Voltage regulator coming from PCM (use analog gauge to ensure it’s not bouncing around too much; digital gauge doesn’t typically pick up voltage bouncing as it’s a sample)

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posted 10-13-2018 03:08 PM                  

My service manual does not show a picture of this ground location.

Besides the ground, you maybe experiencing and intermittent power loss to cluster. I'll check schematics and see if I can find and info for you.

posted 10-13-2018 04:19 PM                  

Robin, I'm guessing the I/P support is what Tomcal mentioned, just have no idea how to get to it

I was able to access 3 grounds without a lift, one to the battery and two on passenger side under the car at the center brace. Cleaned and reinstalled, no change

I appreciate you guys! If you could clarify how to get to the I/P ground /right of center stanchion near radio, I'll go check that and see what happens.

p.s., I have not checked the fuses, still trying to figure out how to access them?

Thanks!

posted 10-13-2018 05:40 PM                  

Stanchion is the metal housing that holds center vents, radio and heat/A/C controls. Also called I/P, instrument panel support.

I don't know exact location of ground. Follow main wiring harness under dash, near radio until you find ground wires. G200 is black, G201 is black with light green tracer.

They will be attached to metal housing stanchion/IP support. Diagrams are for a 2000. Other years may vary slightly.

posted 12-05-2018 11:23 AM                  

Hallelujah, it appears my gauge issue has been resolved!

So about a year or so ago, my gauges started acting weird. All dropping to zero, bouncing up and down, sometimes working fine, sometimes not working at all, digital readout showing weird characters, etc... So here is most of what I did to correct the issue

1. I first had a mobile instrument repair guy come and inspect the circuit boards. Didn't find squat, said the boards were fine. Cost $40

2. Sent my BCM to United Radio - that checked out fine - Cost $40ish for shipping and insurance, no charge for the inspection

3. Checked grounds - cost - just my time

4. Had battery tested - cost - just my time and some gas

5. Had circuit boards fully tested by another company in Tempe, not just inspected. Technician claims the boards are totally fine but thought there may be a solder issue and re-flowed the boards - cost, just my time as he too did not charge for the diagnosis

6. Had Chrysler do a deep scan of BCM, PCM, tested charging system, etc - all tested fine. They claimed it was the capacitor - cost $125 for diagnostics. Chrysler didn't have the ability to provide circuit board repair, so off I go

7. Went back to the company in Tempe with Chrysler's prognosis, he went ape-sh*t, took it personally and wouldn't do anything more

8. Finally decided to contact The Prowler Store and sent my boards there on Oct 19th. Cost $32 for shipping and insurance and $176 for diagnosis. Waited over 30 days before they diagnosed the issue as being a capacitor and needing to clean and re-install resistor above it and 'fix' someone else's 'damage'. Received boards back December 4th. Cost to repair $280 (on top of the $176).

Despite the exorbitant cost to repair the boards (still less than buying new boards) and the incredibly long wait just to find out what was wrong, and the anxiety of not even knowing if their repair would work, I am happy (pleased as punch!!) to say that after all of this time, after all of the effort and after way too much spent on this issue, I finally have a working gauge cluster!

posted 12-05-2018 11:45 AM                  

And thanks for posting a follow-up update. Always good to hear outcome.

Prowler on.

posted 12-05-2018 11:50 AM                  

Congrats Brian! Glad to hear you are back in business in your Prowler.... Happy Prowling,,ENJOY the RIDE

AC
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